Originally Posted by kdevine321

First of all, that engine is NOT a 22re!! Its the 6 cylinder 3z so right off the bat if the guy is telling you its a 22re he doesn't know what the hell he's talking about. It didn't look at the CL post, only your photos. But regardless, the engine could be in good shape...or not. Do a compression test on it. Invest $50 in the tool and it will take you maybe an hour if you've never done it. If the cylinders are in spec and the front end seems solid, go for it.

Originally Posted by SPARKS89

Calm down ace. The craigslist ad says it's the 3.0 V6. The first mention of a 22re that I see comes from highonpottery's comment.

Do the compression test and look at the spark plugs. That will tell you more than anything about the engine. As far as everything else, check the fluids for color and to see if there are any leaks anywhere. Also check for torn boots on tie rod ends and ball joints. Most of all just drive it. If you've got a good feeling about it then go with your gut and buy the thing.

Originally Posted by highonpottery

my bad on the 22re comment, what i meant to say is that regardless of 22re or 3vze that the rig is only a baby with only 120k. both engines are considered reliable as long as well cared for, both have proven to last several hundred thousand miles, yet both have their common failure points/issues. with the v6 you will be getting ~2mpg less than the 4cyl, so maybe 14-18mpg instead of 16-20mpg, which really isn't that bad - try driving a land cruiser that only gets 15hwy on a good day and likes premium still though, if the truck pulls your boat ok now, it would pull it even better if it had proper gearing for those larger than stock tires - but that's a future upgrade. actually, with being geared high right now you might be getting better than stock MPGs on the highway (not so much in-town though).

anyways, the comment about "locking em out" is in regards to locking the front hubs and putting it in 4wd to make sure everything works. you can test it on pavement, but it's not ideal due to the high traction surface - but for a quick test around the block you'll be fine. i wouldn't worry about the HG issues - seems hit or miss and as always you'll hear more about the failures than the positive comments.

truck still looks good though if you want it. either way, you could most likely drive this truck for a few years and sell it for the same price you paid...one of the awesome things about Toyotas holding their value (a non-running/serious issue Yota will usually be in the $1k range, a running/decent Yota will always be in the $2k range)

Originally Posted by kdevine321

Ooops, I guess glance reading got me in trouble. Yeah, I didn't check the CL add and saw someone mentioned the 22re. Sorry. I appologize. But as a warning to the potential buyer, lots can go wrong buying an old truck like this, especially if you plan on hauling boats around. Regardless of hg issues, in the first 3 years of owning my 94 4x4, the entire fuel system from the tank to the filter needed replacement, the timing chain needed replacement, many wires to sensors needed replacing, new rear brake drums/shoes and all needed repl, egr went out, ex manifold cracked...the list goes on. And it looked pretty solid when i bought it and drove great the first 8 months. Maybe luck took a dump on me but be prepared to fix things yourself to stay afloat monitarily. That's where yotatech comes in really handy. Just hope you got lots of free weekends. I think I'm better off because I had to learn all that stuff.

Originally Posted by kdevine321

Ha, my truck wouldn't: stop, start, turn, idle, accelerate, drive straight, drive without overheating, drive without bucking, drivie without leaking, etc. Each one of these issues would boggle my brain for weeks until figures it out, usually by reading the forums here. Then even more time fixing it, often to the detriment of my guitar and fishing freetime and $$$. I had essentially NO mechanical skills before this truck now I can use a multimeter to check ohms, volts, splice wires, do diagnostics by sound and touch, just got done replacing my timing chain, ball joints, shocks, 02 sensor, and injectors...and its still got a ways to go.

Originally Posted by Nervo19

Congrats. Since you live in MN I'd spend some time fixing and preventing rust while you still have nice weather. If you have a do it yourself car wash near you I'd take some ramps and clean the heck out of the under carriage and the engine. In one picture it looks like the rear tires ride pretty close to the frame. Research "Zuk Mod" here and with google. I was able to get a pair of Jeep Wrangler springs for $9 that a 4WD shop disposed of. There are a ton of cheap upgrades you can do.
Download the 84-89 Factory Service Manual:

http://web.archive.org/web/201101022...ttora.com/FSM/

Download and save it because it continually disappears from the web.

If you do a build thread there are a ton of people who will give you excellent advice. Check out Terry87's three restorations. He turns out some great trucks, mostly 4Runners but they share the same parts as yours.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...thread-227399/

Originally Posted by Nervo19

Zuk mod helps suspension for low cost. Do a search on here. I prefer the "no cut" version which involves Jeep springs. "No cut" means not cutting the Toyota. My Jeep springs were 16" and had to be cut to 13".

There are a ton of engine washing threads on google. You cover the fuse box and distributor with plastic bag or aluminum foil. Spray Simple Green or Gunk Engine Cleaner or Purple Power on the engine and hose off. Yours is pretty dirty so it night take a few cycles. Purple Power is known to mess up paint so if you use it be aware of that.

You also need to clean up the under carriage of your truck and keep it clean. It will help delay rust and show any leaks before they get too serious.

Originally Posted by highonpottery

just don't throw water on a hot engine = thermal shock i'm guessing the only issues you'll have with this truck will be related to rust getting to things. once you get it, just start reading up here on YT, there is TONS on information for fixing, modding, improving, etc

Originally Posted by zerochance

I checked the oil, it was still goldish and didn't smell burnt at all. I couldn't find the transmission and the rod to check the fluid. What are "Boots" but I did test drive it. It was strong and powerful! The owner even allowed me to tow my boat with the truck and it basiclly ran just as good as my brothers 2001 tocoma 4wd sr5 (perfect condiditon, well maintenance) but this was only in the streets. I'm planning to test drive it on the highway next week before I buy it. My guts says BUY IT! Plus when checking the wires and spark plugs what am I looking for?

Originally Posted by zerochance

How'd you figure out that those parts needed replacements? I'm guessing The usual weird sound that was never heard before? I usually have 3 out of the 4 weekends open doing nothing but preping myself for archery opener.

Originally Posted by SPARKS89

You won't find a rod to check the fluid on a manual transmission. You have to get under it and pull the fill plug and stick your finger in to feel the fluid. The boots are the rubber things that protect the ball joints and tie rod ends so crap doesn't get in them. When you check the plugs you're looking for corrosion and how bad it is. The ends should be dry and be a light caramel color. If they're wet, black or ghost white you've got some kind of fuel mixture issues. On the wires you don't want corrosion on the ends. You're also looking for torn end boots and any nicks that may be along the wire itself. You can also run the truck when it's dark (and I mean DARK) outside and if any of the wires are shorting out due to bad insulation you'll be able to see the little blue arcs jumping around the wires. It's pretty cool, but not good at all for the engine. It would be best if you plan on changing all of this when you buy the truck anyway so you know it's been done.



WOOHOO BOW SEASON!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by SPARKS89

Yes I do. I bought my 89 in December of 2011. It had 187,000+ miles then and I paid $4000!