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Old 10-14-2009, 05:36 PM   #1
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I need help dont know whats happening

Hey guys i went in the woods today and played in the mud. well lets start of my clutch boot on the side of my transmisson- if water gets in it it can make my truck seem slugish right? second is there a vent on top of the transmission cause i put my truck in 4wd because i got stuck in a hole and it was smelling weird from the vent looking thingy. third i noticed from one of my pic when i was in 4wdH my truck didnt act like it was in 4wdH and the pic my driver side tire wasnt spinning like my passanger one. next my cv joint on my driverside has a boot on it and it is dry rotted and is leaking grease can yall help me figure out what to do? Any advice
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:37 PM   #2
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the pic on left is hole i was stuck in first and my 4wd and the vent thing was smoking. the next is my tire not spinning. i think im just goin to buy new cv joints on bothe sides. what yall think
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:42 PM   #3
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If water/gunk gets into the trans then you could have some major problems down the road.. Can rust up your clutch componants and coat the flywheel so the clutch just slips...

Seal that boot back up!

IIRC the trans is vented through the shifter plate...

Its normal for just one front tire to get power, you have an open differential, power will go to the wheel of least resistance (same in the rear unless you have a LSD or locker).

Replace the CV axle thats dry
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:42 PM   #4
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The reason only one tire is spinning is because you have an open differential. It's supposed to do that but if you want more traction buy a locker or weld the spider gearsand they will turn at the same rate.

If water gets in the boot over the clutch fork it will get crap in your bell housing with your clutch and make it slip and eventually you will burn it up. Not good. Get some "Right Stuff" gasket maker and seal that boot in there so no water gets in

The smell you smelt was probably your clutch burning up from water in the bell housing.

If your cv boots are torn and rotting replace them

Your gonna get stuck a lot with open diffs, start off with a rear locker you will be amazed how much more stuff you will get through
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:46 PM   #5
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I beat you
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:48 PM   #6
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thanks i got stuck twice today normally i dont but i think it was due to the problems with the water in the clutch thing. can i just get a new boot for the clutch and seal it ? and can i silicon my starter plug that runs to my distrib cap. it feel out today cause its short wire since i lifted my truck. can u give me a thread where to find instructions on how to do the locker in front or the weld thing?
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:50 PM   #7
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I know, damn.

*algranger sheds a tear*
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:52 PM   #8
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My clutch boot never fit right after I did my clutch. So I just used clear silicone and sealed it back to the trans. Works like a charm!

What starter wire are you talking about?

Search about lockers

p.s Algranger, im playing the worlds smallest violin
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:54 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jtcessna View Post
thanks i got stuck twice today normally i dont but i think it was due to the problems with the water in the clutch thing. can i just get a new boot for the clutch and seal it ? and can i silicon my starter plug that runs to my distrib cap. it feel out today cause its short wire since i lifted my truck. can u give me a thread where to find instructions on how to do the locker in front or the weld thing?
Starter plug that runs to your distributor cap...? Not following you

I dont know of a thread but basically you remove your third member and install a locker or weld your spider gears together.

If you do it in the front you will have difficulty turning. Thats why i said to put one in the rear.

If you want to weld it it will be locked full time this is how it should look

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Old 10-14-2009, 06:03 PM   #10
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so if i drive this everyday back and forth to school and work will it effect any thing in the rear?
sorry i just dont know much about 4wd stuff and how to make it better
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:05 PM   #11
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It will wear your tires faster by scrubbing the inside tire around corners...

I run a lockright autolocker in the back of my rig
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:08 PM   #12
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do u have a pic of one? how much are they
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:27 PM   #13
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what if i welded my spider gears in back would that be ok? with me driving it daily
i heard it puts stress on other things, i just want to not get stuck, i reckon im goin to have to buy a rear lockright
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:33 PM   #14
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oh boy...

let me go ahead and warn you ahead of time...

playing in the mud can cause some SERIOUS problems down the road with many things, even if you try to prep you truck for it...

been there... many times, lol

and I've since rebuilt pretty much the entire truck...

minus the transmission ironically


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Old 10-14-2009, 06:40 PM   #15
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mud gets into everything and washes out the grease in bearings that keeps em from breaking....if the mud filled problem is left neglected long enough it will break....BUT the mud is so much fun!...my rig is currently broke down I partially blame the elbe hills mud
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:54 PM   #16
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lol, oh it's fun for a little while

'till it comes time to wash it...


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Old 10-16-2009, 05:58 PM   #17
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what if i welded my spider gears in back would that be ok? with me driving it daily
i heard it puts stress on other things, i just want to not get stuck, i reckon im goin to have to buy a rear lockright
Stress to other parts is nothing to worry about. Your stock truck can handle a welded rear no problem.

The thing to look at is welding it now will only cost you a bottle of gear oil and gasket maker BUT it will cost you more in tires down the road as you will eat them up fast driving on the road

An autolocker (lockright, detroit, aussie etc.) will cost up front but will be saving you a lot of on-road tread wear in the long run.

Personally i would run a weld or a spool due to the true, solid lock you get, but it may be in your best intrest to run an autolocker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plumbrbob View Post
mud gets into everything and washes out the grease in bearings that keeps em from breaking....if the mud filled problem is left neglected long enough it will break....BUT the mud is so much fun!...my rig is currently broke down I partially blame the elbe hills mud
Of course its Elbe mud.
That silty, sticky, thick, part killing, irresistable, hell of a good time mud!
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:54 AM   #18
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Also it puts alot of stress on your truck when you wait until your stuck to put it in 4x4.Thats a big no no.
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