how much is reasonable to run off my battery/alternator
#1
how much is reasonable to run off my battery/alternator
i was wondering if anyone has an idea of when i need to get a larger power source. though not all of it is installed here is the list. 400 watt amp, 2 12 in subs. rms on those is about 300. then want to run 4 foglights (similar to kc daylighters) or some 500's. after that i may install 2 more speakers in the far back. and from there the list goes on to small things like gps, and jus small things to charge in the 12 volt.
i was worried about this in my old car and now i jus wanna make sure the runner has a safe balance and isnt about to blow. one thing i did to help is i bought a capacitor for the subs and it works great.
i was worried about this in my old car and now i jus wanna make sure the runner has a safe balance and isnt about to blow. one thing i did to help is i bought a capacitor for the subs and it works great.
#2
You could also buy a second cap, if you're gonna keep adding stuff. I know the guys that compete (audio) do that. I'd look into getting a higher output alt soon. Otherwise things aren't going to work right when you start adding all the toys weird stuff will happen, ie truck will run like crap and you can't figure out why. If you push it too hard, and I don't think you will with just that stuff, you can mess up your computer. Haven't heard of that happening often but it can happen.
#3
with a smaller amp like that and a few fog lights you shouldnt see any issues with electrical but if you want to continue to add things find out what the amperage draw is on each item VS the amperage rating on your battery. as stated you can add a high amp alternator. i would stay away from multiple caps, you definately dont need two full capacitors for one 400 watt amp. the caps will only benefit your electrical system if it is related to your audio or in line with the caps. you may want to research doing a second battery and a battery isolator if you plan on running several electrical items especially if multiple items will be used at one time. you can get a deep cycle battery large enough to do most if not all of your add on items for realtively cheap, also a battery isolator can be purchased pretty cheap on ebay. hope that helps you a little bit. your maximum amperage draw on the amp will be the total amount of fuses on the amp. also eaiest way to find out amps true max power is to take the fuse ratings and multiply them by 14.4 ( example two 20 amp fuses = 40 amps multiply by 14.4 = 576 watts max power ) the most voltage your battery will safely ever see is 14.4 and when multiplied by your fuses total amperage it will give you the most power truly possible
jason
jason
#4
also go on to www.caraudio.com and search for " the big 3 " that tells you how to upgrade your battery, alternator and ground wires to make your system run more efficeintly as well
#5
If you take the watts of the amp and the lightbulbs add them up and divide by 12, that will give you the current draw. The reason I say 12V is because it accounts to some degree that your alternator doesn't put out much power at idle.
What model truck are we talking about here? The pre-95 rigs only had a 60A alternator. Figure 1/2 of that is taken to run the vehicle, leaving you only 30A to safely run accessories. With lights, that adds up QUICK.
The battery or capacitor take care of brief surges in the power draw. The big difference is that a cap charges and discharges MUCH faster than a battery and therefore does a better job of smoothing out the power flow. In the end, though, all that energy comes from the alternator, and if you pull more than the alternator puts out, it's only a matter of time before the truck dies.
What model truck are we talking about here? The pre-95 rigs only had a 60A alternator. Figure 1/2 of that is taken to run the vehicle, leaving you only 30A to safely run accessories. With lights, that adds up QUICK.
The battery or capacitor take care of brief surges in the power draw. The big difference is that a cap charges and discharges MUCH faster than a battery and therefore does a better job of smoothing out the power flow. In the end, though, all that energy comes from the alternator, and if you pull more than the alternator puts out, it's only a matter of time before the truck dies.
#6
Capacitors are a myth. They will do nothing for a poor electrical system. As was mentioned, upgrade your big three. Do the battery, power leads, and alternator. Save your money by not wasting it on a cap and put it into something useful.
#7
Oh, and there's an IASCA World Championship backing up this experience of mine ...
Last edited by tc; Sep 29, 2008 at 07:19 PM.
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#8
I have a 1000w amp pushing 2 500 rms audiobahn 12s. Buy a Optima Red top or a Yellow Top if your more for audio. I went a little overboard on the cap and got a 5 farad only on a 1000w amp, but they do have a massive effect on the power. Before the cap when my system hit, it would dim the dash lights to hardly visible, now i dont even see them flicker. But it does have an effect on ur alternator always drawing power from your battery, im about to go through my 3rd alt this year so upgrade that too.
#9
You have something else wrong to be killing alternators like that. See above about "Big 3". Or maybe you're getting mud in them? (you DO live in that part of the country! LOL)
Send your dead one to Boyle Future Tech in CA and have it upgraded instead of getting a "new" one.
Send your dead one to Boyle Future Tech in CA and have it upgraded instead of getting a "new" one.
#10
i just keep renewing the year warranty from the parts store everytime i need a new one every 6 months
but really its the cap i got and i also play my system really loud all the time. Theres nothing like rattling the old ladies mirrors at the red lights.
but really its the cap i got and i also play my system really loud all the time. Theres nothing like rattling the old ladies mirrors at the red lights.
#12
haha no i havent had problems YET im just trying to prepare before i add too much. but i already have a cap so i might as well use it. but it sounds like the best idea is just to get an alternator that can handle more. i have a 2000 runner. any specific ideas on good prices for a good product? (ive never really looked into alternators so forgive the questions) thanks for all the great ideas though guys, real helpful!
#13
Absolutely untrue. Capacitors absolutely help smooth the flow of the energy, helping the amp to deliver full power during dynamic transients. They do NOT create energy, just help store it and then discharge it quickly when needed. They will not help much on steady draws like lights, but are absolutely vital for dynamic loads like amplifiers - hell, that's why they're built into every amp!
Oh, and there's an IASCA World Championship backing up this experience of mine ...
Oh, and there's an IASCA World Championship backing up this experience of mine ...
Capacitors helps alot in audio system...
#14
Absolutely untrue. Capacitors absolutely help smooth the flow of the energy, helping the amp to deliver full power during dynamic transients. They do NOT create energy, just help store it and then discharge it quickly when needed. They will not help much on steady draws like lights, but are absolutely vital for dynamic loads like amplifiers - hell, that's why they're built into every amp!
Oh, and there's an IASCA World Championship backing up this experience of mine ...
Oh, and there's an IASCA World Championship backing up this experience of mine ...
He is better off upgrading alternator and battery. When the cap discharges to "help smooth power flow", what is it, exactly, that replenishes the capacitor? Power from the battery. If the battery is weak, the capacitor won't make up for it. In fact, it will take longer to recycle since the battery will be unable to make up for the cap's current demands, potentially making things work worse than before.
#15
I have a 1000w amp pushing 2 500 rms audiobahn 12s. Buy a Optima Red top or a Yellow Top if your more for audio. I went a little overboard on the cap and got a 5 farad only on a 1000w amp, but they do have a massive effect on the power. Before the cap when my system hit, it would dim the dash lights to hardly visible, now i dont even see them flicker. But it does have an effect on ur alternator always drawing power from your battery, im about to go through my 3rd alt this year so upgrade that too.
#16
There are WAY too many factors to make such a blanket statement, including what kind of music you're listening to at the time. If your mean power consumption is at or below the alternator output, you're golden. Yes, if your mean consumption is beyond what the alternator can provide, you got problems. Which is exactly what I stated in post 5.
#18
Odyssey looks pretty good, do you know if there is a dealer near GA?
#19
Honestly, you may want to consider getting a bigger amp.
from what i understand your installing this on a buddys truck or something??
or is this your stuff..
Anyway, I have 2 kicker tens, peak is 300, I have a kicker 300 watt amp, but when both subs are plugged in it sounds like its suffocating.
Unplugged one and it sounds alot better
im looking for like a 500 watt amp to power them both better
from what i understand your installing this on a buddys truck or something??
or is this your stuff..
Anyway, I have 2 kicker tens, peak is 300, I have a kicker 300 watt amp, but when both subs are plugged in it sounds like its suffocating.
Unplugged one and it sounds alot better
im looking for like a 500 watt amp to power them both better
#20
actually i picked my red top up for about $130..comparing to the halfway decent batteries at about 90 bucks so i thought it was a good deal. They usually run over 200 and i havent been able to kill mine yet after 2 years.
Odyssey looks pretty good, do you know if there is a dealer near GA?
Odyssey looks pretty good, do you know if there is a dealer near GA?
check out ebay, i usually have good luck with deep cycle batteries on ebay


