Thanks for posting some pictures!

The orange wire with purple stripe isn't a factory wire.

Disconnect that wire from the headlight terminal and see if the fuse still blows.

 

you sure? It’s crimped Into the stock h/l plug and is the same kind of wire as the stock wiring. Looks factory how it’s in there. Just my connection to the fender is janky. It did have an eye ring on the end at one point.
I checked the drivers side stock plug and it’s just has 3 wires coming out of it.
Weird. Wonder why that wire was put there. Will try disconnecting and get back. Thanks!

 

After disconnecting that orange/purple wire and a new fuse, I now have functioning low beams. The high beams work when I pull back on the switch, but not when I push the switch forward. And the bright headlight indicator on the dash doesn’t come on at all in either setting.

Guess that weird orange/purple ground wire shouldn’t have been there.. but weird that is was. And wonder now if it’s meant to go somewhere else or just not needed at all.
any ideas? Where should I look now to diagnose the no brights issue? Thanks!

 

What kind of headlights are you running? I'm running the relay harness, and after I installed LED headlight bulbs my high beam indicator stopped working.

 

Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, I'm working nights right now.
This is why getting the diagram for YOUR vehicle is important. I have no idea where that orange/purple wire is supposed to go.
good job so far!
the high beam issue is probably dirty contacts in the switch assembly since it works when you flash the high beams. No telling what is wrong with the indicator without more information (like Jakey poo asked about LEDs) and a diagram.

 

Im running stock replacements from autozone.

 

I struggle finding the right diagram as there are so many online and I struggle to read them anyways. Learning... but slowly.
Ill take the switch apart again and use a nail file to file the contacts. Used some sandpaper when I just cleaned it yesterday but just not have cleaned it good enoUgh.
Its a 1990 Pickup 22re 2wd.
Ill start my search for the diagram again and post back what I find. Thanks!

 

Silly me.. had these in the manual the whole time. Not sure which isn’t mine tho. Here’s one for both early and late model. Neither seems to have that orange/purple wire that mine does.
Guess I’ll just work on the combination switch and cap this wire up for good.

 

Yeah, it's funny that neither one shows that extra wire.
before you get too deep into checking out the high beam indicator make sure the bulb is good. I can get deeper into how it works after you verify that it isn't just a bad bulb.
if you want to test the circuits before tearing into the switch you could check for voltage on the red/yellow wire when your headlights are turned on, if you have voltage then put a jumper between the white/black and the red/yellow wires to see if your high beams come on.
another test would be to put your meter on ohms with the headlight switch unplugged and see if you have continuity between HU (FU on one diagram) and ED terminals on the switch when the dimmer is clicked to HI beam (very low resistance number like .1 to .3 ohms) or if it shows open or high resistance.

 

Masterofnone,

Your wiring was certainly hacked.
High beams working on Flash but not on Push for High is most likely because of the dimmer-combo-stalk switch. Root cause of it is the poor design of the headlight circuit that subjected those contacts to high currents that the relay should have carried. (Toyota mechanical engineers were much better than its electrical engineers back in those days. Want proof? Look at horn, headlight and cranking circuits of trucks up to around 1995).

H4 conversion harness is a good retrofit. However, retrofitting a hacked wiring is unpredictable.
Also ask for schematic of the harness to be sure.
I would thoroughly verify that u have correct wiring. Do checks I outline on my post headlight troubleshooting HERE. Mine's a 1986 22RE so while concept is the same, wire colors may not be same as urs, altho Im pretty sure R/Y is for highs, R/G is for lows. Verify connector pin numbers.
As for high beam indicator not working, most likely just a busted bulb.

 

Thank you again to everyone who chimed in. Much appreciated! I will be taking the combo switch apart again in the near future and trying to clean and sand contact points. Did this once but not very thoroughly.
Will post back in a few days once I get it fixed.
Currently working on getting my front crossmeber bolt holes lines back up. Having the hardest time with this. Have removed and reinstalled my engine since removing it and cannot for the life of me get it back together.

Also have a coolant leak where the small water pipe that runs along side the drivers side of the block bolts to the timing cover.
gonna try to unbolt it, smear some permatex water pump sealant around it and reinstall and hope for the best. Really don’t want to take timing cover off.
Also may have a slight coolant leak at the bottom of the water pump..

Oh the fun little things that I have to wrap up after the rebuild. It never ends