Charchee

Absolutely right on capping any ports to the head when you want to see what happens with the lines removed. You never want unmetered air entering the intake. A local parts store will sell a package of assorted vacuum caps. It's good to have a package of these on hand when fooling with one of these engines. If you decide to leave the port capped permanently, invest in some of the higher quality caps that are packaged in individual sizes. There are only two or three different sizes on your engine.

As far as the EGR delete. I deleted the egr and pair valves from my 89 model 3VZE. I noticed no significant changes other than one fewer exhaust leak and finally enough room to change my passenger side spark plugs for the first time. Lots more room in there now and half of the vacuum lines. I may have more caps on my plenum than I have hoses now. I'm not sure when they started doing it but some of the egrs in trucks newer than mine have an electronic temp sensor installed in them that will send a signal to the ecm telling it that the valve is actually functioning. If the ecm doesn't get this signal, you will be looking at a permanent check engine light. You can resolve this buy installing a resistor between the two pins on the electrical plug. Just letting you know that it is just a little more complicated on one with the sensor. Search other threads on this before you decide to do it.

JmanTaylor

Fixed. Chapter 4 section 17 Haynes repair manual. Those ports suck air at certain RPM. Restricting it by having it misrouted to the EGR was causing the issue by 1) not allowing air in and 2)creating a vacuum on the EGR. Routing these properly solved the issue. Detaching it and giving it filter air contributed to solving the issue. As said earlier, blocking it created the same issue so capping it solves nothing.

osv

congrats on figuring it out, but this all needs to be clarified for people who read this in the future.

the vacuum line that you have the bubler on should go to the charcoal canister? which is a closed system, so blocking that port on the tb looks no different to the tb than connecting it to the charcoal canister; the port is blocked regardless.

you are mistaken to claim that blocking it "solved nothing", because blocking it at the tb meant that it would have performed the same as if it was plugged into the charcoal canister.

the filter you put on there did not contribute to solving the issue, because it opened up the intake system to outside air, which is not metered, as we stated.

the point of all this is that there aren't any circumstances where putting a filter on those ports will re-create the factory configuration, so it should not be done, and telling people that it helped fix the issue leads them in the wrong direction... what contributed to your troubleshooting was disconnecting it from the egr, which was not relevant to putting a filter on it.

JmanTaylor

Got all of the hoses sorted out and it runs perfectly. You are right that opening up that port is not a factory spec/permanent solution. However, I never claimed that it was. I did claim that it eliminated the stumble, and that it led to my own discovery that there was a larger issue with the EGR and hose routing which I corrected as a spec/permanent solution. I think you guys may have skipped over reading that part.
I would advise everyone reading this to try unorthodox, out of the box, repair manual closed, methods to try to diagnose their issue. My doing so in this case led to the discovery of the problem and solution when ALL of the orthodox suggestions failed.
To recap....
Issue = Engine sputter/bucking - Newly acquired 1991 Pickup
When it happens = Parked out of gear, advance throttle slowly, at about 2000 - 3000 rpm the engine will sputter. When driving, maintaining a constant speed with minimal pressure on the gas pedal the truck will buck.
Tests = MAF, TPS, O2sensor, compression, fuel pressure, fuel injectors (All within spec)
Failed Attempts to correct = Complete tune up. Dist cap & button, spark plugs and wires, new o2 sensor, new TPS, new fuel filter, Throttle body and IAC cleaning. Other less invasive items - seafoaming engine, STP complete fuel system cleaner.
Solution = By pulling and testing the effects of the vacuum hoses leading to the throttle body, I found that opening one port corrected the shudder. To find out why, I traced all of the vacuum lines and discovered they were routed incorrectly by the previous owner. Rerouting these lines solved the problem.
Conclusion = A lot of good suggestions that led to a lot of needed updates to this truck and a greater understanding of the 22re. All of these suggestions would apply more to a situation where the issue just started on a vehicle you have had for a while. Considering this was newly acquired, never underestimate the unimaginable things a previous owner can do before passing off his problems to you. Sometimes the solution is so simple it is not in the manual.

osv

that was a great summary, maybe the take-home is to check the hose routing right when you get the truck, no matter how it runs.

i went thru something similar on my truck after i first got it, basically replaced the tps when it may have not needed replacing... it was a pain in the neck, trying to adjust it with a cheap autoranging multimeter didn't help things, and i had to swap it over and re-adjust it again when i went to the later model intake plenum... dig a hole and fill it, lol

then i did something similar learning how the entire egr system worked... fortunately i was able to stop the spending before replacing the egr valve itself, which is a bit expensive... i was able to clean out a later model egr, remove the temp sensor, and use that.

one thing i found interesting with what you did was that the vacuum wasn't significant at idle, it only happened at a higher rpm.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see you got it fixed. I was going thru your thread and seen you talking about the EGR. I have never had to replace an EGR, usually they are very dirty and have to give them a good cleaning. Setting the adjustment on a TPS should be simple and straight forward with a meter and feeler gauge which I know how to do both but the TPS, I have my local Toyota dealer to do it, he charges me 1/2 hour or $30 to set it. Well worth it to me and usually the TPS is so worn, I just replace them new.

On a new to me truck, I suggest checking and replacing the vacuum lines, clean and test all of the sensors, clean out all of the carbon, use factory OEM tune up parts, all new fluids, adjust valves, burp the cooling system, check and clear codes, set timing according to FSM or Haynes, I use SeaFoam thru the Intake and not thru the tank so as not to break up the build up in the tank and clog injectors and filter, and then see what issues come up.

I get asked how I get a motor to start up so quick and that is all the steps I do to make it happen. Usually that will also find any hack jobs previous owners may have done to a motor.

I used to be Anti-EGR and it does make a mess but I think it does help these motors last longer just because it actually cools the burn in the cylinders. You only need to clean it about every 100k miles or so and I can get everything done in a week end or a long day.

xcspirit

Can someone please send me pics of their throttle body hoses and where the go/come from? 3.4l. Also the PCV valve hose where that connects to the throttle body. And the coolant hose routing from the lower manifold. The engine I received has none of this and I cannot get any good solid info on this! Thanks for the info!!!