Can I get some opinions on picking up bolts for items such as timing cover, brackets, pulleys from places like Fastenal or local hardware stores? If it is at least a Grade 5 would it be ok in these uses? Is it bad to have a bolt with too strong a grade? In the middle of a 22re rebuild and I'm a few bolts short here and there. Thanks in advance.

 

Also, as long as it is the same dimensions, will I run into problems using bolts that are completely threaded in replacement for bolts have no thread for some portion of it?

 

Most of the hardware on the engine, in fact the whole truck, is Metric class 8.8, not grade 5 as you said but agreeably equivalent to it in terms of strength. Some suspension/steering fasteners may be class 10.9, equivalent to imperial grade 8, and should be stamped on the head. If there is no markings then class 8.8 should work.

Technically they are called 'cap screws'.

Careful because Toyota likes to use a lot of 1.0 and 1.25 fine pitch metric bolts.

Is it bad to use a stronger bolt? Normally no, but at a palace I worked at years ago we had to replace the SHCS (Holo-Chrome mil spec) to grade 5 HHCS on water jackets used in continuous slab casters for steel making because the heads kept popping off. The mill was not impressed with bolt heads flying off in every direction and water spraying onto molten steel! Between the engineers and us mechanics we concluded that the SHCS wouldn't give a bit where as the HHCS grade 5's would.

Full thread over partially threaded? You may lose a bit of strength at the head/shank area with fully threaded in tension loading (see above for heads popping off)...for your purposes not likely. DO NOT swap fully threaded bolts for partially threaded in sheer loads. In this case the un threaded shank bears the sheer on the major diameter, where as with a fully threaded bolt the minor or root diameter does. For example a nominal 1/2" bolt would bear the sheer on .500" but at fully threaded would bear on about .420". 080" doesn't sound like a lot but could be the difference between driving happily along or becoming a crash scene from a Mad Maxx movie!

I use (used) class 10.9 flange head bolts with a star lock washer for most of the bolting of aluminum parts when freshening up the 22R in my 83. DO NOT use flat washers under lock washers, even though it is common to see this, and even Toyota has done this, this is very poor fastener practice. You will get away with this on lightly loaded fasteners but under heavy load it can be disastrous. At another steel mill one guy was crushed under a coil of steel and another lost both legs after a crane failure for poor fastener techniques.(Not anything we were involved with)

Fastenal lets an individual buy over the counter? Last I tried the *****there said I needed to be a business. I said you wont sell bolts to a licenced tradesman fixing his truck but will to a guy owning a pizza place? WTF!

 

Fastenal is funny like that. Some store have sold to me no problem. And some are F no. I have shipped some stuff through a few of their stores and they recognize me and sell to me. Have also been like look.
My boss sent me here to buy these fasteners, pull out the list.
Does he have an account setup? I assume so.
We cant find him in our system.
Ok what can we do? Our job is in a zero cell reception area.
Ok we will sell them to you. Just make sure that he comes in later and gets it straightened out.

Most "pro" only stores have a cash account type deal setup for the smaller guys that cant afford to have a full blown account setup. 20+ years ago I used to buy all my paint at sherwin williams before they had a retail type setup. Just show up dressed for the part know what you need and be cool. Never failed.

 

That was an incredibly valued post. Thanks for your time on that! I am not missing enough to buy a kit, and it’s a damn puzzle to find the right diagram for the right truck and order it from manufacture. Thanks again!