DupermanDave

I just did the vacuum test while the engine was idling and fully warmed up and it did almost stall. It probably would have stalled if I applied enough vacuum to it. Does this mean there's sufficient gas flow?

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Does the EGR cooling passages in the back of the head open up into anything else? If one were to take off the cover with the head installed could you spray in some carb cleaner and then just blast it out with compressed air?

DupermanDave

I was able to do that once the EGR was off.

A few days ago I took off the EGR and cleaned it good. The rubber diaphram is fine. It was almost so clean I could lick it. Before installing it I cleaned out the passages on the back of the head just a bit. I sprayed carb cleaner and scrubbed what I could out with the gun bore brush.

After having everything back together, I still get a code 71. Could this be a sensor malfunction now?

One more thing to note, my fan clutch is bad and is spinning even with the engine cold. Does this affect the emissions system at all?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Could be the sensor is not getting to the specified temperature/reading in the time the ECU is expecting or it could be the sensor is not operating correctly. Not sure if the FSM lists any testing specs for that sensor or not (my '85 has a non-sensor EGR so not familiar with that part of the system). So might see if it is testable and/or replaceable and if not, a new EGR valve may be needed. I know a buddy of mine had that issue with his '94 and a new valve fixed that code. Or search for the resistor bypass of that sensor.

Fan clutch would not really affect emissions that much, but will cut into MPG a little. I found I got nearly a 1 MPG improvement on my '85 when I replaced the old always-on fan clutch with a new Aisin part that unlocked when cold.

DupermanDave

I think I'm going to buy a junkyard sensor if I can find one. Online I found sensors for about $85 and EGR valves for about $100. I'd rather spend money on a cheap replacement sensor and if that doesn't work, it must be the valve. If a new valve doesn't fix it, both sensors must be bad and I'll just add the resistor from that point.

What I'm also worried about is that there might not be enough vacuum to open the rubber diaphram and allow EGR gases to flow. Any way to test this?

Also, the CEL comes in for code 71 always while driving at highway speeds. Isn't the EGR supposed to be closed at this point and not circulating?

stormin94

I've been having the same code 71. I've pretty much learned to ignore it, although I'm probably going to try cleaning the EGR, then putting a resistor in place, since I need to know if the CEL comes on for a more serious reason.


Also, my light is on all the time, so maybe it's stuck partially open? Either way, MPG is still pretty much par (around 16 sometimes).

DupermanDave

I'm worried about the EGR functioning properly. We may be getting emissions testing here and I would like to pass it properly, without having things blocked off or bypassed. As long as it partially works and gets me to pass, I'm okay with it. The resistor in the sensor I'm okay with if it's a sensor fault, but if the CEL is going of because there is something wrong with the valve, then I'll need to know.

joelgarcia707

so yesterday i took my truck to get smogged. barely passed on co2 but was 500ppm over on the nox test. the guy who smogged my truck took a look and determined that the egr valve was clogged up and needed to be cleaned. he quoted me $150 just to clean the thing! ridiculous. so this morning i took a look and saw where the egr valve was connected. but there are three bolts that i cant get off located underneath the modulator.

i was wondering if there is an easy way to remove the egr valve without busting my knuckles or without throwing tools all over the place. any advice is appreciated.

by the way, i drive an 85 toyota pickup with a 22re

Cpate81

How much is a new one?? I would think that it couldn't be more than $100, but what do I know?? I would just put a new one on, or try a used one from a junk yard.....or you could try the "guaranteed to pass smog in a bottle" stuff.

Good luck!

joelgarcia707

i think a new egr valve is about $140 from what ive seen. but i finally got the 3 bolt things off. when i finally was able to pull off the egr valve, it was completely caked in black. no wonder why nothing was able to pass through haha. scrubbed it out with a pipe cleaner and soaked it in easy off and now its almost as good as new. tomorrow im gonna buy a couple cans of seafoam and hopefully on monday when i go to get smogged ill pass no problem.

Kiroshu

Welcome to YOTATECH! The egr valve itself is seldom clogged (but happens) usually the passage in the intake manifold is where the "clog" appears. When the hot exhaust meets the cool intake air is where the crud builds up.... Get a wire pipe cleaner and swirl it up in the intake passage and clean it out. Be very careful with seefoam and follow steps exactly as they say. Don't put any in the motor (where oil goes) unless your going to change the oil in it soon after. Do you have a vacuum pump (hand pump)? I would check operation of the egr to see if its good. Pump up the pump while the engine is idling and if it starts tp run bad and hold vacuum then its working.

shafner30

Hello

i feel lazy,

is it ok to spray throttle body cleaner

down the little vacuum pipe on the egr valve to clean the egr valve out?

Is it going to hurt anything when i start the truck right after?

Let me know

thanks

yotaman85

i dont think it will hurt, but i don't think it will help either.. take it off and do it right.. it makes you feel like you accomplished more.

93runner223

i took my entire egr off applied a vacum pump to it to open the valve then cleaner it with the real stuff. the soaked it in wd40 to prevent rust. then let dry opened and closed several times while lubricating with either litium grease or silicon lubricant. let dry and made sure valve would open and close. while ur at it check all vacum lines i found a hole in mine

fvillan

I placed the resistor 10k 1/2 watt in the female part of the egr sensor and reconnected it. Five minutes of driving and the check engine light turned off. No more code 71 and pass the smog test with no problems. The truck is a 93 22re. Try it the resistors are 99 cents at radio shack. If this works for you then you know you have a bad sensor and can decide to buy it latter. Good Luck

shaunneuhaus95

i got a 94 runner 3slow. is the egr valve located on the passenger side of the intake manifold and also connected to the exhaust mani using a metal tube. (looks sorta like an acordian)

shaunneuhaus95

also if the egr valve is stuck open will the engine run hotter than normal

TNRabbit

Yes.

If it's stuck open, it will make the engine run like CRAP.

More likely there is an issue with the vacuum distribution disc thingy. FSM lists procedure for testing.

Toyotarv

I did all of the above, code 71 after 5min of driving, Stoped the 95 4runneer lifted the hood then as I was smashing my forehead on the air intake I saw the ONE broken vac line on my right side, 4 weeks of code 71 hell and 900 miles later my dash has no cheek light on

Bako88

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I'm wondering how the EGR can effect an emission test on a 22RE if the EGR system doesn't allow vacuum to operate the EGR until 3000 RPM and the test is only done at 1500 and 2500 rpm. Does anyone know? Thanks.


Edit-I just realized my error. The test is 15 and 25 mph. I guess gearing would determine RPM for these speeds.