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Driveshaft go bye bye

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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #21  
andrewflores17's Avatar
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From: colorado springs ,co
my dads 87 4runners came loose then one week later mine nearly fell off got it home parked in the drive way took a look had one faithfull bolt holding it all on took that bolt off and threw it in the glove box its my lucky bolt now
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #22  
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From: Gosnell,Arkansas
Originally Posted by andrewflores17
my dads 87 4runners came loose then one week later mine nearly fell off got it home parked in the drive way took a look had one faithfull bolt holding it all on took that bolt off and threw it in the glove box its my lucky bolt now
where did you buy new bolts at?
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #23  
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If you don't want to go the dealer route, Marlin carries them for a bit less money:
- http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...lange-bolt-m10
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #24  
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Geeez that is scary. I never want my drive line to fall off! Glad you and your truck made it out okay!

If you are looking for some used drive lines, we've got a ton of them, ummm literally and we'll gladly sell you just a yoke/slip


Last edited by BigMike; Jul 26, 2011 at 08:37 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:53 AM
  #25  
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From: Gosnell,Arkansas
wow, I've never seen so many drive shafts haha. Redneck Heaven. I may have to buy a spare front and rear drive shaft. Thanks BigMike
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #26  
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Sounds good! We used to sell a lot of used shafts but we've recently slowed down with them because of how much time it takes to find just the right length for the customer. So please don't expect us to find you an exact match because these are just being sold as useable cores.

Hopefully also they haven't all rusted up yet LOL Send me a PM with what you need and I'll check if we can set you up with a good match. This way our sales guys don't have to run out back in the middle of your phone call.

Thanks!
BigMike
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #27  
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From: Gosnell,Arkansas
well I had to go ahead and buy some grade 8 bolts. Everything seemed to work fine and vibrations or anything. I'm just going to use these bolts until next week then i'll order some from marlin crawler
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #28  
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I know who to call when I need another driveshaft!! Lol!

Long story short, the same thing happenend to me only a few miles from home...we had a welder, so I welded whatever I could....Drove around town for weeks before fixing it haha.

Anyways, Loews has grade 8 hardware that I used and never had any problem with...even got nylon lock nuts!
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #29  
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From: Gosnell,Arkansas
Originally Posted by DieselFace
I know who to call when I need another driveshaft!! Lol!

Long story short, the same thing happenend to me only a few miles from home...we had a welder, so I welded whatever I could....Drove around town for weeks before fixing it haha.

Anyways, Loews has grade 8 hardware that I used and never had any problem with...even got nylon lock nuts!
i just ended up using grade 8 bolts with tread lock. Seems to hold up good, knock on wood haha
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #30  
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From: Fresno, CA
The American grade 8 is equivalent to the Metric grade 10.9. The stock drive line bolts are a metric grade 11 so I'm sure your grade 8 bolts are basically the same thing

Toyota OEM factory bolt: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...lange-bolt-m10


BigMike
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #31  
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BigMike, any drawbacks to using SAE and not metric? As far as a slightly different size 3/8 vs 10mm? 3/8" is slightly smaller then 10mm.
Also aren't most SAE bolts that are that short normally threaded to the head and/or have much shorter shanks which would somewhat degrade that grade 8 rating?

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Aug 17, 2011 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #32  
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From: Utah, PG
Same thing happend to me
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
BigMike, any drawbacks to using SAE and not metric? As far as a slightly different size 3/8 vs 10mm? 3/8" is slightly smaller then 10mm.
Also aren't most SAE bolts that are that short normally threaded to the head and/or have much shorter shanks which would somewhat degrade that grade 8 rating?
Definitely having the shoulder makes for a stronger bolt since it has a larger cross section. I believe what's most important is how the friction force between the two flange faces will be greater than the combined shear strength of the bolts. So as long as you can install and torque the fasteners to the factory specification, you are guaranteed proper friction loading between the two faces. This is why we always touch up the faces of flanges on our belt sander when we do installations. The contact area of the two faces is the key.

Just image loosening your flange nuts a bit and then doing a burn out. You'd be far more likely to shear all four bolts than if they were torqued in place and could rely on the friction between the two flange faces.

I can't really be impartial to this because I like to keep my metric truck metric using only JIS hardware where ever possible. So you won't find me using American flange bolts, not because they are a better choice or not, but because they are not OEM.

BigMike
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #34  
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The friction point is a great explanation didn't think of that. Thanks. Makes perfect sense.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:13 AM
  #35  
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Drive shaft for sale

. I live in Tennessee, where are you?

Last edited by dropzone; May 1, 2015 at 05:22 AM. Reason: Dude - please read the rules, especially the classifieds rules...two thumbs up on your thread archaeology skills though
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:18 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Razorsedge1911
I live in Tennessee, where are you?
He lives in 2011, when this thread was made...
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Old May 1, 2015 | 12:50 AM
  #37  
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From: Gosnell,Arkansas
haha, thanks for the offer though
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