Charge light only, no blinkers
#22
I did do a search first on the old charge light problem and read through every thread that came up for it but still aren't finding a similar issue. Monday I was about halfway home from work and coming to a stop when all of a sudden the charge light came on. No brake light or anything else with it, charge only. My fuel and temp gauges both shut down and my blinkers don't work. Everything else is fine though. Fan, dome light, brake lights, head lights, dash lites etc. I was pulled in at a parking lot for about 15 minutes and when I started it back up, everything was back to normal and no charge light. Yesterday, ran to the store normal, then while driving back, it happened again. This morning when I turn the key to 'on' the only light I get is the charge light. No brake or oil light. Starts up just fine. Drove to work with no turn signals and now trying to narrow this down. From reading other threads I've got a list of things to start checking after work but I'm confused about losing my gauges and blinkers. Any thoughts?
#23
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Yuba City, CA
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Hello. I have a 1985 4wd long bed yota. I'm having this same problem. My charge light came on and fuel/temp gauge quit. Then wipers and turn signals quit then the radio. Checked all fuses relays wires and put a new alternator on. Changed the wiper light blinker assembly and still no luck. I wondered if you found the problem? Thanks much
In my case, I changed the (quite-worn out) contacts INSIDE my alternator, and everything was solved.
Give that a try.
#24
Don't just Replace Parts without Verifying that they cause your problem.
Hi guys,
Maybe you have lots of money... I don't, so I don't just replace parts without first verifying that they cause the problem. Save the money for trips, instead.
See explanation of charging circuit, including charge light on my sig, and see taht each component is doing what it's supposed to do, and you'res seeing voltages noted where they're supposed to be.
Regards,
RAD
Maybe you have lots of money... I don't, so I don't just replace parts without first verifying that they cause the problem. Save the money for trips, instead.
See explanation of charging circuit, including charge light on my sig, and see taht each component is doing what it's supposed to do, and you'res seeing voltages noted where they're supposed to be.
Regards,
RAD
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Yuba City, CA
Posts: 568
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Hi guys,
Maybe you have lots of money... I don't, so I don't just replace parts without first verifying that they cause the problem. Save the money for trips, instead.
See explanation of charging circuit, including charge light on my sig, and see taht each component is doing what it's supposed to do, and you'res seeing voltages noted where they're supposed to be.
Regards,
RAD
Maybe you have lots of money... I don't, so I don't just replace parts without first verifying that they cause the problem. Save the money for trips, instead.
See explanation of charging circuit, including charge light on my sig, and see taht each component is doing what it's supposed to do, and you'res seeing voltages noted where they're supposed to be.
Regards,
RAD
It's just one suggestion. It's easy to get to, and easy to check. If it's worn out, it will be clear. Whether it solves the whole issue or not is a whole 'nother story. But even if it doesn't solve the whole issue, it'll be one less thing to worry about.
#26
85 yota
Hi guys,
Maybe you have lots of money... I don't, so I don't just replace parts without first verifying that they cause the problem. Save the money for trips, instead.
See explanation of charging circuit, including charge light on my sig, and see taht each component is doing what it's supposed to do, and you'res seeing voltages noted where they're supposed to be.
Regards,
RAD
Maybe you have lots of money... I don't, so I don't just replace parts without first verifying that they cause the problem. Save the money for trips, instead.
See explanation of charging circuit, including charge light on my sig, and see taht each component is doing what it's supposed to do, and you'res seeing voltages noted where they're supposed to be.
Regards,
RAD
Charge light is on fuel/temp gauge quit wiper/signal quit and radio. Really has me stumped! Anyone who's had this problem and found the solution I'd be very grateful for any help/advice!
85 yota
Fresh engine 22r .40 over
Weber outlaw carb
6" lift
Rough country springs
33x12.50 buckshots
LOVE MY YOTAS!! 1987 4wd and 2002 sport edition 4-runner
If it's not a yota don't park it in my yard!!
#27
The alternator will not charge the battery either. I tested the fuse box and it's getting power. Just seems like from the plug in to the wiper/signal up to the steering wheel isn't getting power. No blown fuses. When the charge light came on the signals quit. Next morning I started it and the wipers quit. That evening after checking fuses I started it and the radio quit. Everything didn't quit all at once just one after another. Could it need another ground? I checked all ground wires and they were fine. Tested the fuse box under the hood and it has power also. Hazard lights work headlights too. Blower motor works too.
Charge light is on fuel/temp gauge quit wiper/signal quit and radio. Really has me stumped! Anyone who's had this problem and found the solution I'd be very grateful for any help/advice!
85 yota
Fresh engine 22r .40 over
Weber outlaw carb
6" lift
Rough country springs
33x12.50 buckshots
LOVE MY YOTAS!! 1987 4wd and 2002 sport edition 4-runner
If it's not a yota don't park it in my yard!!
Thin red wire on alternator connector provides field current to other should be steady 12V there. If not, no field current= no alternator output. When alternator out puts is fin, When alternator output is outside the proper range other than momentarily, charge light output "L" will go low, and ground negative side of charge light, causing it to come on.
If other systems are also out, problem could be outside the charging system.
I suggest you look at schematic at all systems that are out, trace power from each system back to fuse block, and find out which junction all the paths back to fuse block meet. Problem would be between that junction and fuse block- or fuse block it self. If you're having a hard time understanding schematic, please post it here so we can help you. High Resolution, please. Photo bucket is very good with that.
#28
85yota electrical problem
Oh, not you Shoua, I was talking about lots of folks in general.
What voltage were you reading when you say you've got power? Did you measure voltage at "B" wire of the alternator? If you're reading 12.8 or less on Fuse block, that's only the battery voltage. Alternator voltage at "B" wire should be between 13.5 and 14.5 approximately. Charge light output "L"
Thin red wire on alternator connector provides field current to other should be steady 12V there. If not, no field current= no alternator output. When alternator out puts is fin, When alternator output is outside the proper range other than momentarily, charge light output "L" will go low, and ground negative side of charge light, causing it to come on.
If other systems are also out, problem could be outside the charging system.
I suggest you look at schematic at all systems that are out, trace power from each system back to fuse block, and find out which junction all the paths back to fuse block meet. Problem would be between that junction and fuse block- or fuse block it self. If you're having a hard time understanding schematic, please post it here so we can help you. High Resolution, please. Photo bucket is very good with that.
What voltage were you reading when you say you've got power? Did you measure voltage at "B" wire of the alternator? If you're reading 12.8 or less on Fuse block, that's only the battery voltage. Alternator voltage at "B" wire should be between 13.5 and 14.5 approximately. Charge light output "L"
Thin red wire on alternator connector provides field current to other should be steady 12V there. If not, no field current= no alternator output. When alternator out puts is fin, When alternator output is outside the proper range other than momentarily, charge light output "L" will go low, and ground negative side of charge light, causing it to come on.
If other systems are also out, problem could be outside the charging system.
I suggest you look at schematic at all systems that are out, trace power from each system back to fuse block, and find out which junction all the paths back to fuse block meet. Problem would be between that junction and fuse block- or fuse block it self. If you're having a hard time understanding schematic, please post it here so we can help you. High Resolution, please. Photo bucket is very good with that.
#29
try to go to the spokane public library they have the complete wiring diagram for your truck because i got my diagram there to wire in a radio out of a buick ultra into my truck it works fine and the diagram works good to my truck is a late 86 or early 87 depends on who you ask.
#30
Charge light on, no blinkers,no fuel guage
I recently had this same problem with my 88 4x4, my charge light came on while driving and then I noticed my blinkers didn't work either. Also my fuel guage wasn't working but that had been an issue for awhile (I assumed it was the float in the fuel tank. So after reading some posts I started with the simplest thing first, cleaning battery posts, that didn't do it. Next I removed all the fuses in the fuse box located in the cab and cleaned with a wire brush and reinstalled, this solved all the problems including fuel guage. Turns out my cab is starting to rust out and water was getting up into that area where the fuse holder was located.
#31
Registered User
Just wanted to add on here for the archive:
Helped a buddy with these symptoms, 86 carbed truck. Our 15 amp engine fuse under the kick panel was blowing immediately on starting. Turns out our issue was caused by done accessory light wiring a PO that done. Unhooked it and problem went away. Not sure how all of was wired in... But pulled the wire feeding from the battery, no more issues.
For whatever it's worth for anyone searching this in the future. Your accessory working if done poorly could cause this problem.
Helped a buddy with these symptoms, 86 carbed truck. Our 15 amp engine fuse under the kick panel was blowing immediately on starting. Turns out our issue was caused by done accessory light wiring a PO that done. Unhooked it and problem went away. Not sure how all of was wired in... But pulled the wire feeding from the battery, no more issues.
For whatever it's worth for anyone searching this in the future. Your accessory working if done poorly could cause this problem.
#32
I am having a similar problem. I noticed that the Engine fuse pops as soon as I shift into reverse. I'm going to unplug the reverse light switch (when it stops raining) and see what blows!
#33
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