Yota

...why...?
not to be rude. but i don't understand.

EDIT i found this .
http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19571
i see.

batmanurd

My 4runner is a daily driver. Still pretty stock and I put a spartan locker in the rear myself. It barely changed its road manners and it's pretty quiet. It made a HUGE difference on the trails though. I plan on some more mods in the future but I do not plan on a front locker until I can afford a sas. A locker with the ifs is just a bad idea.

1uzpickup

Can I ask I'm kind new to this stuff but why would the locking IFS be bad ? I feel like an IFS setup gives a lot of travel.

batmanurd

I'm assuming you meant traction not travel. Yes you will get more traction with a locker in the front but really you'll do better with it in the rear. You put a lot more strain on all the moving parts when you put a locker in. The rear can handle it but the front ifs really can't and your very likely to break something. Is there a reason you don't want to put it on the rear?

1uzpickup

I ment suspension travel I feel as if the ifs would allow greater travel overall in the suspension and allow the best possible traction, though I completely understand the point about breaking parts. And I plan on doing a locker in the rear soon but wouldn't it also be advantageous to have a locker in the front as well

lobukbuild

im not being sarcastic im just very interested so please explain to what advantage twin stiks would be and what ADD has to do with it. as far as i knew the stiks just give you the option of 2wd low range. also with a spool or welded or lunchbox type axle i see where disengaging the ADD would yield one wheel free (but you could just add a switch on the dash to do this) also you could achieve this by unlocking one hub with manual hubs.

btw i run an ez locker in ifs and im happy so far. ADD w/switch on dash and manual hubs on 33s turned by 488s

Roark

Guys this thread is ~7 years old..

lobukbuild

yes it is and some one found it interesting enough to bring it back instead of starting a new one i guess. may be some new questions will get addressed on the subject

batmanurd

Haha. My bad. I saw it in the new post and just thought I'd throw my two cents in. But to the guy asking about ifs, just as many of the threads on here already talk about ifs was one of the worst ideas ever introduced to 4x4. Not only is it weak but it's travel is severely limited. The rear is where most of your travel is.

AxleIke

This is not actually true. The front locker will get you into situations where breaking stuff is more likely, but it actually provides several benefits to the front end for strength.

1. If you get an ARB or Detroit style, the carrier is much stronger than stock. It will handle abuse better and helps with gear deflection.

2. The biggest advantage is in controlling the spin of the wheels. In an open diff situation, where you lift a tire, and the tire is spinning in the air, that tire is spinning 2x as fast as the ring gear, which means when the truck bounces down, the tire stops and the CV axle gets shock loaded MUCH more. With a locker, everything turns all at the same speed, so there is less loading and you are less likely to break an axle.

3. The front locker (assuming you already have a rear) allows for more controlled, even power through obstacles, avoiding the full throttle assaults that you see so often. This provides benefits all along the drivetrain, but especially to the steering, which can take a pounding getting bashed into the rocks at speed.

If you turn the wheels full lock, thus exceeding the strongest part of the arc for the CV joints, and hammer the power, and one wheel is stuck, yes, with a locker, you will probably lose a joint. You might just as easily with an open diff as well. Just depends on the traction differential between the two wheels. Good way to break birfields too, for that matter

People break less stuff open because a front locker allows for access to much more difficult parts of trails. On the other hand, I ran an ARB in the front of my 87 4runner with IFS, dual marlin cases with 4.7's in the back, 4.88's in the diff and 33's and 35's, and never lost a CV with the front locker, only without. Also never lost gears, never lost inner axles, and never lost a hub. The front locker was one of the best investments I ever made for the fun and capability of my truck.

Short summary:

If you plan to SAS, its a bunch of money, only some of which you will recoup, to sink into a pile of parts you will cut off.

If you don't plan to SAS, a front locker is a GREAT addition. I recommend the ARB. Its expensive, but I've had several in different trucks, all flawless operation, and its the best of both worlds.

Cheers!

AxleIke

Exactly right on the 2wd low range. I was referring to getting the locker out of bind so you could steer.

A switch in the dash would work good. The reason I was talking about twin sticks is that the signal to the shift solenoids for the ADD is sent via the 4wd/2wd shift switch, so if you had a single stick, and no switch, you would end up having to go to 2 hi to disconnect the ADD, giving you the freedom to unlock the front locker in a bind situation, but possibly hard to be in 2 hi (at least for 4cyl trucks, but V6's too). At least being able to stay in low would be helpful.

The switch is brilliant. Many have commented on Manual hubs. Its not something personally I would want to do: I'd hate having to jump out of the truck and lock/unlock. Which is why I was commenting that the ADD trick with twins would serve the purpose.

However, given that this thread is umpteen years old, I should qualify, I've been around a bunch more now, and the mechanical locker stuff that everyone is concerned about (including myself in the past) is completely location dependent. Personally, I wouldn't drive one on the snow much, but the bind situations only really happen out on hard rock wheeling, like Moab, or places here in CO. If you are in loose dirt, sand, or muddy terrain, they work awesome. Even on the hard rock, I've seen many work just fine. Probably give the drivers a work out, but they work well.

I run ARB's, but thats just a personal thing. I like em. To each there own I suppose.

Cheers all!

AxleIke

Except its run on many Ultra 4 cars now with great success.

Yota

id like to see a low budget install of ultra 4 ifs on a stock yota.

AxleIke

You and me both!

That would be pretty sweet for sure. Make for a really fun car

zchead

Can anyone expand on this for me?

Racersk

The Supra IFS rear 'chunk' came in pre 88 form with a 7.5" F code gear set. It also came with a stock LSD option

The diff code was F283 4.30 with 3 pinion lsd, iirc. This used to be the go to option at PAP about 10 years ago.

**NOW** it is 2016 and those parts are OLD and used. I had one that came apart in a 2WD truck set up, normal driving made a turn and CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK.... I tried to find parts for it, and other than rebuilding a working housing you salvage for $300-400, then spend another $300 to rebuild it, cause it is gonna be warn out. Been there done that.

Now I have a TruTrac I put into my 2wd truck a few years back, that I will soon be removing to install on my newer 94 4x4 trucks front diff. That's what I love about the older Toy's a 7.5 is an F code gearset in any model Toyota.