I was thinking about getting a spool for the front differential, since it seems to be the cheapest way to go. I was going to do something for the rear at first, but since my '87 4x4 p/u is my DD (for now) I would have to pay extra for an E-locker to have the option of locking the rear when I'm on the trails, and unlocking for road use. I found a few things for the front diff. on the all pro and 4wheelparts websites. Who knows, maybe someday I'll just get a pair of detroit lockers when it becomes mostly a trail rig. Thanks, Sean

 

Read this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-gears-131248/

A spool is the same as welding the spider/side gears.

Same advice as before, don't do it!

Selectable is the best for the front, next would be truetrac, then open based on what I've seen.

 

IFS + Spool =

$$$

 

I'm proud I put a EZ locker in mine.

 

Go to your local junk yard.
Find a Supra or Celica Gt or a 5speed Cressida (looking for independent rear sup cars)
And get the differential out of it .
Remove carrier, Get necessary part for self install or take to local shop.
Install in your front diff.

Search for Supra 7.5" diff for IFS front Diff.
Or if you have a Straight Axle search for 8" Supra diff (86.5<)

Got mine for $35

 

Kind of a hyjack but i was watching Extreme 4x4 this weekend and they put toyota axles under a sami. They installed a toyota e-locker in the front diff. What was that? I had never heard of the toyota front e-locker.

 

the only one from the factory with an elocked front is the landcruiser.

since the front is also an 8inch diff you can mod it and put in an elocker in it.

 

You can put an elocker in any "pretacoma" solid axle, including the 85 and earlier solid front axles. I wish they would have shown the modifications required to do it...

As for what is BEST way to lock front IFS diff?
ARB - no question. Especially if you will need 4WD on snowy roads.

But then in your thread, you seem to be confusing BEST with CHEAPEST.

If you never drive on snowy streets, probably the best compromise of "best" and "cheapest" is an Aussie or NoSlip, as they will provide some differentiation to allow you to steer, but still provide the traction of a locker.

If you go with a spool or welded, you will need a twinstick at least if you want to turn - and that's $200 plus some time modding your tcase, so that option isn't as cheap as you think it is.

IMHO, if you're really using the truck offroad, an LSD is wasted money (even $35 for a Supra LSD)

 

To be clear, the twin stick works with a welded or spool only if you have ADD. If you do not, it doesn't work.

 

Here i go again hyjacking...sorry... They showed where the cuts to the housing were made in order to fit the elocker up front. I am surprised that someone around here hasnt tried that yet

 

i've definitely seen threads where people make those same cuts.......

 

It has been done many, many times here. You can put the rear up front, but it is weaker than if you put in the FJ80 High Pinion unit.

 

I put an elocker up front on my rig. Retrofitted it to the 85 housing. Works great, but now i am wanting to get rid of it and build another axle with an ARB in it. mainly so I can trade the front and rear out.

 

I didnt realize that it was being done that much around here. I have never really heard it thrown out when someone asks about a locker for the front. I guess due to the fab work the other options would be better. Thanks guys for answering the question! Have a good one

 

I would go with a lockrite locker for the front

 

I'm running a Truetrac in the front and it works fine. If I had the cash, I would've went with an ARB.

 

oh yeah i would go arb front to match my arb rear

 

Ok, back to the thread, I am just looking for a cheap(er/est) way to make my truck more off road capable. I figure that if I find a way to lock the front diff, that I would at least have a locked diff somewhere and since this is still leaning on being a DD, I figure it would be easier just to completely lock the front, since the only time I use 4x4 is when off roading. I don't want to weld the spider gears, don't ask me why.

sorry I confused you....

 

You said best ... the best is ARB, period. It is the only choice for your front diff that does not sacrifice either on road drivability or offroad performance.

You want to make the truck more offroad capable for less than an ARB?
- Your tires look quite street oriented and small diameter
- Get rid of those nerf bars and some real sliders
- skidplates
- gears
- front bumper
- on and on ...

 

Get a lockright for the front. I ran one in my IFS for 10 years and never had a problem with it. I only used 4wd for off road. I don't live where it snows too much.

Nowthat I have a solid axle the old IFS diff is still living on in a froends rig and has had no problems to this day. Thats 15 years of service on it so far.