I have just ordered some moog ball joints and Monomax shocks for my 93 pickup. I was wondering while I am picking up all the parts, what else should I replace while I am at it? I was thinking I should pick up a set of CV axles too.

What brands would be great info as well.

 

are your CVs broken or leaking? if not, i wouldn't bother with - if leaking, reboot and service. aftermarket CVs are not as strong as Toyota CV. The only aftermarket version strong enough is RCV and those are big money.

possibly replace all your rod ends, front steering stabilizer, Idler arm rebuild or replace with the FA5040 idler and get brass bushings. service wheel bearings and spindle lube. after all that you'll basically have a new front suspension except for control arm bushings which are more involved repair.

 

+1

While you have the front end apart, it makes sense to replace at least the tie rods. The OEM ones last quite a while, but chances are if your ball joints are loose, it's time to replace your TREs as well.

 

Will do. Is there a preferred brand when choosing replacements or should I go OEM?

 

I've only ever used OEM. No problems to report.

 

Sweet, OEM it is. Here is a quick pick I snapped of my drivers side.

 

I just did my ball joints on my 89 4rnr (same front end). I did the inner and outer bearings/races too. If you tear down the hub it makes the ball joint job realllll easy. My cv's, shocks/ tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm have all been replaced in the last 12 months so I left em alone. One thing I found out... the ball joints I removed had a 19mm castle nut but the new ball joints had a 22mm castle nut. Just make sure you check your tools before you suddenly don't have a ride to the hardware store!

I don't what else, check your brake pads while you're in there. Sway bar bushings are easy whether or not you're doing this job but they are also right there.

As far as the part store v OEM question; I got duralast BJs from autozone. The lowers were 555 brand and the uppers were moog. I won't argue against OEM ever. But with the duralast they give you a lifetime warranty so as long as you don't mind the labor you always can get the replacement parts. Also, the uppers BJs i got didn't have the studs pressed in. Make sure you got a good way to press those in.

TRE's/idler/pitman i used Sankei 555 from partsgeeks, CVs were Cardone remanufactures from NAPA, again with lifetime warranty.

 

I did mine on my 86 truck this summer, Might wanna get a pitman arm puller to get them out if you dont have a press. Made the job alot fast then I got it.

 

Agreed. Buy or rent one, i got this one for $15 from orielly. Pulls pitmans/idlers/and ball joints. Its just slightly too big for the tie rods. FYI, the non-stud side of the lower bj is pressed into the bottom of the steering knuckle. There's a shallow cutout on either side of the bj that you can fit a flathead in to pound out the bj.

 

I like my Deeza TREs. Have Sankei 555 Pitman & Idler. But might want whatever Idler allows you to install the Sdori metal bushings -- other sell them too...

The TRE sleeve is a possible failure point and typically filled with rust and hard to reuse. Blazeland sells a really nice option. Worst case, find ones that are same as OEM -- better than the cheap China ones I've seen.

For axles, check out raxles -- have to call but supposed to be the best rebuilds available.

For ball joints, go OEM. And consider repacking your wheel bearings too. If you have to replace, go w/ Japan Koyo.

 

I find the smaller TRE puller works better on everything but the pitman arm -- for the pitman tool, buy from Northern Tool (it's drop forged), not Harbor Freight (just cast).