What is the proper adjustment of the screw on the top of the engine? Both of them . please

 

Well, not be a smartass, but which screw? There's a few, adjusting them could do any number of things. Have a picture?

 

Well, there's the idle screw, the the plastic bolt lookin one with the spring

 

Idle screw is best adjusted with engine fully warmed up and timing set correctly. CW lowers idle, CCW raises idle. (I think, it's been a while) The plastic one is on the side of intake plenum towards valve cover?

 

Yesthat one.
I'm having issues with what feels like my secondary isn't opening up. I'm getting the mass air sensor cleaned on Monday and the belts tightened.
When I hit the accelerator it acts like its bogging out. When I open the engine and rev it manually I can hear a suction from the top of the air box, but no vacuum leak. Like the flap inside isnt responding right

 

Ok, so don't rush adjusting things. The idle adjustment does only that, adjust the idle. It will have no effect on throttling. It opens/closes a bypass passage around the throttle vane, to allow air to pass at idle. It doesn't physically adjust anything else. If you're hearing air passing through the air box when you snap the throttle open, I think that's relatively normal, I can hear the air box "honk" when I do that, too. Check your intake tube, from airbox to throttle body, for cracks, leaks, etc. If it has any leaks, the VAFM isn't recording how much air is passing into the throttle body, throwing everything off. So make sure you have no intake leaks. Duct tape will get you by for a bit. The screw on the intake plenum, towards valve cover, is either AC or PS idle-up. I don't have AC, and my power steering is disconnected from the idle up. So I don't have that screw.
Have you pulled any codes yet, is your CEL illuminated?
To help make sure that TPS is set correctly, attempt to set/check timing. If warm idle drops slightly when E1-TE1 is jumpered, then TPS is basically set correctly. Set/check timing. Then adjust idle (preferably with a tach) to 750-900 rpm. Must be under 1000 rpm. It may take a couple rounds of timing/idle adjustment to make it perfect.

 

How do I get codes? How to set TPS?

 

If your check engine light (CEL) is illuminated: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/
Only adjust TPS if jumpering diagnostic port does not cause idle to drop. If idle drops, it's probably fine. However, you can test it with a meter, (maybe should) to make sure it's a clean sweep through the resistance ranges, with no dropouts. I would hold off adjusting TPS until you have eliminated other options.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
This IS a 22RE, right? Fuel injected?

 

Yes 22re fuel injected. I have no warning lights on on dash. At times. Like in 3rd gear will have pedal down, sounds boggy. Then it will seem to open up and start accelerating. Act like its starved for air. Plus if I have the pedal all the way down, why would it not rev up.? Sometimes its a chore to even get up to 60mph even in 5th gear cuz something seems to hold it back.

 

Yes 22re fuel injected. I have no warning lights on on dash. At times. Like in 3rd gear will have pedal down, sounds boggy. Then it will seem to open up and start accelerating. Act like its starved for air. Plus if I have the pedal all the way down, why would it not rev up.? Sometimes its a chore to even get up to 60mph even in 5th gear cuz something seems to hold it back.
This is my daily runner, so it gets a bit frustrating.
Here's everything I've had done in the last year and a half:
-new belts
-throttle body cleaned out
-new belts
-new CV axels
-new shocks
-new head gasket
-newcap and rotor
-new plugs and wires
--new catalytic converter
-all transfer cases and differentials fluids replaced
-new brake lines.
I've had thetruck since '03. Its ran way better. The engine sounds good, just not getting the power to the road like it used to.

 

"Bogging" with the throttle wide open indicates a lean condition. It's not starving for air, it's starving for fuel. Or just getting too much air(e.g. vacuum leak).

Check for codes. Search if you don't know how.

The plastic screw with the spring is the AC idle up valve.

 

I can remove airbox cover and manually pushbsir flap, then manually rev then put back together, then it runs good for a while., hopefully getting mass air sensor cleaned will fix adjustments.

 

Which makes perfect sense to me. ECU thinks it's getting less air, so it gives it less fuel. Causing a lean condition. That's how the AFM works.

And, since you do have an Air Flow Meter, as opposed to a Mass Air Flow sensor, that means you can't clean it with any kind of chemical/spray. You can take it apart and clean it by hand ONLY. Which is tricky. I've done it a couple times successfully. You need to have a good understanding of how they're built and how they work though. To be able to "persuade" them to work again. Like I said, there's some tricks to it.

 

Awesome news! So where and how to get or clean out a ECU? Would be huge help to get info on that. So my modle doesn't have a mass air flow sensor then?

 

Thanks, hippy, for the screw clarification.
OP, try borrowing an AFM from a friend with similar year/model of truck and swap your with it to see if that eliminates your issue. These trucks don't use a mass airflow sensor. The use a flap that is pushed open by airflow to guesstimate the amount of air being sucked into the engine. I would be VERY cautious about disassembling to repair. It may not be the issue, and then you're trying to find a replacement. So try to swap first, see if it's the problem. I believe the 4crawler TPS link I posted has some info on checking the resistance of the AFM.

 

The problem is typically mechanical in nature(the vane mechanism gets "sticky"). The problem he seems to be describing at least. The only way I've found to fix it is to open the bottom up and clean it out as good as you can(using no solvents/cleaning solutions). Then work the vane fully open and closed with varying amounts of force. Until you get all the "sticky" spots worked out. I think it's basically due to small areas of corrosion on or around the shaft/bearing. Which there's no real way to access. So you just have to play with/work it enough, until it starts moving open/closed smoothly again. I've freed one that was totally seized that way. Afterwards you do need to be careful to apply RTV/silicone back to all the spots where it was previoulsy. Hint: it all goes on the outside, around the edge of the lower cover(where it meets the body of the AFM) and on the screw heads(that were covered with it before).

Noithin' too fancy. Hardest part is getting it bolted/unbolted to/from the air filter box.

 

Ohhhhkay. I thought you meant opening and messing with internals. I doubt I'd do that unless I had a working backup unit.
As a side note, I have a growing exhaust leak (very fixable) at the manifold-Y pipe connection. Gives me a noticeable flat spot in power around 2600rpm or so, under heavy throttle.

 

My flap moves freely without resistance, it just does not seem to be adjusting to correct air/gas ratio