87 Pickup 4x2 to 4x4 conversion. How difficult?
#1
87 Pickup 4x2 to 4x4 conversion. How difficult?
I have an 87 pickup 4x2 with a Ford 302 and an AOD Transmission. I would like to know what I'd be getting into converting it to 4wd. It only has to be minimally streetable because I want to run it in mud bogs. I would like to run 36's minimum. I am a mechanic, and have fabricated race cars before so the work doesn't bother me. I'd like to know what would be the best parts to get and any hang ups I might run into doing the conversion. Solid front axle is a must. The tranny is gonna be changed to a C4 or a 4 speed. Need a Ford T-case and driveshafts won't be a problem for me either.
#2
First step is figure out the T-case... that will determine your drop.
From there, if you do go Ford T-case, then your next question is go full width or not. If you go full width, look at getting something like the Sky full width kit which nets you the hangers you'll need. If not the other typical kits will work, however a ford drop is different than a toyota, so you'll need to look at different axles.... and may be looking at moving around spring perches to make it all work.
Next step is cut off the front suspension to just the frame. Weld on the hangers, hang the axle, then go to work on the steering. Most likely the factory steering box will work, you just need to adapt it to the axle you're using, and you might need a reinforcement plate.
Honestly it wont be too much different than your normal SAS you see here, you'll just be cutting off a 2WD front end compared to the usual 4WD. The big difference will be the adaption to your engine tranny combo... if you go ford, you'll be looking at a drivers drop which means no go on toy axles (IIRC)... look into at least a D44 built if not larger. a stock D44 will hold up for a while depending on the weight of your right foot. my $0.02 anyway....
From there, if you do go Ford T-case, then your next question is go full width or not. If you go full width, look at getting something like the Sky full width kit which nets you the hangers you'll need. If not the other typical kits will work, however a ford drop is different than a toyota, so you'll need to look at different axles.... and may be looking at moving around spring perches to make it all work.
Next step is cut off the front suspension to just the frame. Weld on the hangers, hang the axle, then go to work on the steering. Most likely the factory steering box will work, you just need to adapt it to the axle you're using, and you might need a reinforcement plate.
Honestly it wont be too much different than your normal SAS you see here, you'll just be cutting off a 2WD front end compared to the usual 4WD. The big difference will be the adaption to your engine tranny combo... if you go ford, you'll be looking at a drivers drop which means no go on toy axles (IIRC)... look into at least a D44 built if not larger. a stock D44 will hold up for a while depending on the weight of your right foot. my $0.02 anyway....
Last edited by colsoncj; Nov 4, 2007 at 08:04 PM.
#3
yep yep, if your tcase drops to the driverside thats the axle you need
i would go with a more durable axle, IMHO there is no point in going through all the work of a SAS jsut to be replacing parts on your first outing
Allpro offroad sells a D44-D60 hybrid axle which ive heard good things about. Or you could just go with diamond housing. There are a lot of SAS threads on here since all trucks and runners after 85-86 had IFS and people on here dont like that
search around you will find what you need.
i would go with a more durable axle, IMHO there is no point in going through all the work of a SAS jsut to be replacing parts on your first outing
Allpro offroad sells a D44-D60 hybrid axle which ive heard good things about. Or you could just go with diamond housing. There are a lot of SAS threads on here since all trucks and runners after 85-86 had IFS and people on here dont like that
search around you will find what you need.
#7
between the two, definately D60. The sterling hangs awful low for my taste, and without too much benefit in my opinion. If you do go sterling, at least make sure its a full float, some where semi float.
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#9
60 is usually cheaper to narrow than a 14B, if your going to narrow. 14B hangs lower than a 60, but can be shaved if youre skillful. 14B also pretty easy to convert to rear disc brakes, dunno bout the 60. 14B also is beefier and stronger, but come in 2 varieties. If you plan on leaving the rear drums, try your hardest to get a 1989 (IIRC) 14B or later, the drums come off without having to pull the hubs. dunno if that matters if you swap to discs though. my choice would be a 14B, but I know more about them than the 60s, and would shave it to compensate for the ground clearance loss. BUT, dont get me wrong, a rear D60 is still a great axle.
Last edited by colsoncj; Nov 24, 2007 at 03:57 PM.
#10
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