greatskiiiier

just got my first 22rte and not sure what oil to use. i really wanna use mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 but i feel like i shouldnt be putting synthetic in a car with 135k miles when i have no idea what oil the guy before me, or the guy before him put in the car

any suggestions?

Hadmatt54

Most high mileage engines will leak like a sieve if you put synthetic oil in them! Maybe Mobile has overcome this problem with this product, I've never used it, but hopefuly you will get responses from those who have.

pmoose

just use rotella-t in whatever 'weight' of oil you want. I would prefer using the 15w-40 since it is a thicker oil at operating temperature unless you live somewhere extremely cold. rotella is good for turbo engines, i run it in my '87 supra and it does fine

Keith B.

My experience: '87 FJ 60, 97K miles on Castrol GTX, switched to synthetic, no leaks. '91 truck 22R-E w/ 142K miles, run on mystery oil by the potheads I bought it from, switched to syn, no leaks.

pruney81

I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5W40 Full Synthetic at 109K miles on my 1990 22RE, no leaks whatsoever. The Shell has ZDDP which is good for our flat tappet engines. A lot of the guys who run turbo Subaru WRX's use the Shell Rotella T6 oil. That's what I would try if I were running a 22rte.

Kiroshu

10w30 Conventional Oil. End of story.

tried4x2signN

If it leaks any oil, definitely go with conventional.


Is there not a recommendation in the owners manual?

This thing has a TURBO on it after all, and considering the super small production numbers... Will all the ppl that answer your question with their own opinion have actual experience with it?

My recommendation: Read both the owners manual, and the sticker on the glove box...

Teuf

I think the oil leak when swiching to full syn with high miles is a myth.

tried4x2signN

retracted... These days they can put the kitchen sink in oil...

erock13

threw mobil 1 high mileage 10w-40 in mine the past 2 oil changes with 210k on the odometer, the leaks actually became less and it eats up less oil.. can go about a thousand miles now before using up a quart of oil, used to be around 500 miles.. seemed to help me out fairly well, others dont seem to have the same effect, you could always jus go with a syn blend..

erock13

dino has less effect because dino leaves deposits and jus makes everything dirtier and keeps whats already dirty, dirty, whereas synthetic cleans and leaves very little to no deposits, which when ran in old engines tends to cause the gunk holding the leaky seals to be cleaned out and then the old seals start leakin.. mobil 1 high mileage says its specially formulated to help keep seals sealed, so idk if that has anything to do with why mine worked so well.. but it has nothing to do with thin.. an oil weight is the same between dino 10w-40 and syn 10w-40, syn is slippier and causes less friction but its in no way thinner, otherwise its weight would be less..

tried4x2signN

Gosh, back when the thought of actually DRIVING one of my Turbo's was a reality, I used to know what oil was best for it...

Darn things...


What about a straight 50 full syn? Wouldn't that be the best?

erock13

like tried4x2 said, jus go with whats recommended in the manual, usually it has a couple different varieties for different climates.. now if its just a straight one weight oil recommendation, and if youre starting your truck up in very cold, below freezing weather alot, go 5 or 10w less than what it recommends, the first number is the weight it will be at when cold, so the thinner when cold, the better, as it will flow through the engine faster causing less stress and easier start ups, and if youre living in hotter climates, jus run whatever it recommends.. the choice between syn and dino is up to you, you could get leaks, you could not, or it could seal em even better, ya never know till ya try though.. or go with a blend, which is what alot of ppl do cuz of how expensive syn is, castrol syntec isnt a true sythetic, but is basically a syn blend and its about as close to synthetic as youll get without it bein a full and true syn, and provides the same benefits as syn, just a little more limited..

dbcx

15-40 and 10-40 are the same thickness at operating temp. You are hurting yourself with that thick of an oil on startup.

Synthetic oil doesnt cause leaks. what causes leaks is the synthetics cleaning the gunk out that was preventing the leak you had and didnt know it. It also conditions the seals to prevent this.

dbcx

i dont think it will even pour out. You have to unwrap it from the bottle like A christmaa present

LVJPW

Right now I'm running redline 40 weight synthetic in my 86 22ret and it doesn't leak a drop. The bottle says it's actually 15w40 . I do burn oil if I'm running hard/high rpms on the interstate. Maybe 1qt in 300 miles . I think if I kept the rpms low it wouldn't burn much at all.

The only reason I would like to run a lighter weight is the little bit of noise I hear before it warms up. Any thoughts if that would help?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Just run 5w-30 Mobil 1. Its the oldest of the sythetics, and it works well. I have thread going on oil types to protect the cams from getting wiped. you can look for a blog labeled 540ratblog. If you want add some prolong oil additive as well. You need thin oil to feed the turbocharger, so don't go over 40wt.

LVJPW

Thanks SkyPilot. I'm excited to see how it sounds after i get that 15w40 out of there. Fingers crossed I don't get any leaks!

Tsoob

Back in 1980 my Dad ran a 70 Trans AM at the drag strip every weekend, He switched to Mobil 1 synthetic, that motor began leaking from every possible location, But i'm guessing they have improved it since then. When I did the first oil change on my 87 22rte I bought new, I switched to the oil we ran in my dirt oval, mud bog and sand drag cars that I built and drove from 1985-1988, Castrol 20-50, I'm sure some will disagree but I got just under 300,000 miles and 29 years of abuse out of it when the waste gate (CT20) finally burned through as they all do eventually, Pulled the engine to rebuild, no cylinder ridge at all, Rod and main bearings beautiful, Turbo in great shape, no end play..that's my experience and I live in MT..