Hello. I pulled this engine from an '84 Celica in the junkyard with 202k miles.


This will be my first "real" engine rebuild. It looks like the timing chain is off a tooth?




Also are the valves burnt? The exhaust manifold gasket was leaking.



The stock cam in there actually looks decent and there isn't really any sludge.


I also broke a brittle vacuum nipple while removing a vacuum hose.


This will be going into my '76 Celica, replacing the 20R (Eating & puking oil).



Thank you.

 

Timing appears to be way off, if that one silver link is the odd colored link. So you may be 3 links off.

Dizzy looks weird, I've never seen an EFI with a vacuum advance on it. Usually Carbs have those. That means the electrical is different, I would take everything off the donor car. Computer, ignitor, coil, harness etc...

 

Thank you!..I was wondering why it didn't line up at all. That silver link is the only odd colored link and also only one that has writing on it "Made in USA" Hopefully this is why it was just junked and I luck out haha
And yes, it is the very early and simple to wire efi system (analog vs tccs) found only in the 84-85 Celica's (Pretty much an '81-84 22r block and head with EFI bolted on) so it has the 22r vacuum advance... I have everything needed to convert to being smog legal in California.

 

I thought the odd chain link was only for initial installation. To assist in aligning everything. Once the engine has turned a few revolutions, the odd chain link won't line up due to different teeth numbers between crank and cam pulleys.

I would go by crank pulley notch, and possibly seeing the cam dowel is at 12o'clock, that may be a general reference for cam. And verifying the valves on #1 cylinder are closed completely. But a FSM may state otherwise.

Maybe pull the cover and reinstall chain with odd links aligned on crank and cam to see if its off.

 

The off color link should always be at TDC on the compression stroke. Always. I guess the engine could be at TDC on the exhaust stroke, but just check to see if the front two rocker arm followers are loose or not. If there loose, then it's at TDC on the compression stroke. If not, rotate another 360 degrees and check again to see where everything is lined up.

 

The 22re is non interference right? So he wouldn't have to replace valves if it was off timing?

Nice celica BTW. I have a soft spot for those oldies.

 

The timing on that engine is spot on. The shiny link doesn't matter, if you turned the motor over a few more times it would line up. If the crank pulley notch is at 0, the dot on the cam gear is at 11:30, and the distributor is where it is, your valve and ignition timing are both good.

 

So what your saying is...regardless of where the engine is in regard to compression or exhaust stroke, as long as those "parameters" are in the correct places...the timing is spot on?

Educate yourself on the differences between setting timing between compression and exhaust stroke. There is just a little difference.

 

If it was on the exhaust stroke the cam gear mark would be at 5:30ish position. I've been at TDC compression stroke #1cyl with doing valve adjust and the bright link was not visable. Cam position and distributor define compression/exhaust stroke, the crank doesn't care which TDC it's at.

 

That would be a 2 stroke engine. 22re's are a 4 stroke motor...

 

No kidding???

Let me rephrase so I'm more clear. If the timing mark is at 0° (and the timing marks are correct) #1 cyl will be at TDC. If your timing chain is set correctly the "punch" on your cam gear will be at straight up (more or less) or straight down. 2 rotations of the crank per rotation of cam. My previous statment was that the crank doesn't know which stroke it's on, the cam (by way of controling the valves) controls that.

You can be at TDC Comp stroke and not have the bright link line up,but, if you rotate the engine enough times, they will come around again. As previously stated, they're for initial setup.

To the O.P. Do the rebuild. It's a great learning experience and help you apreciate your yota even more. Bond with her.

 

So how do you know your not 180* out of time? You can be at 0* on the crank and be on the exhaust stroke. You can also be at 0* on the crank and be on the compression stroke. But according to you this does not matter?

 

Thanks guys!! Everything looks OK so far..haven't taken the pan off yet though. I did manage to turn over the motor a couple of times and stuck my finger where the spark plugs are and all 4 blew air if that means something lol.
I was suggested by someone I know that I might as well go port the head and stick OS valves in there while I'm at it...but I just can't justify the extra cost to gains ratio compared to plain old reliable stock.

 

The silver link means nothing

as long as all the other things are where they should be when it is all said and done .

Ted and I had a talk about this years ago.

 

the thing that determines compression vs exhaust stroke is the cam. since the cam determines when the valves open and close. like someone mentioned earlier, crank doesnt care what "stroke" its on....but the cam does

 

I always have liked your truck and the old Celicas have great looks as well. I have seen a black Celica just like yours and it is sweet. The girl that owns it really takes care of it.

I rebuilt an 83 Celica 22r motor and it had dome top pistons in it. I dont know if the dome top pistons are a car only thing or if it was on the older 22r blocks. So there are some differences on the blocks and try to give you a heads up on some possible differences. All of the truck motors have Flattop Pistons from my experience, but I dont know the older style blocks so that may not mean a whole lot.

I also tried to convert an 84 block to EFI and know there were some 84 EFIs out there, but the intake bolt holes would not lineup to the heads bolt holes. When you get to that stage of tear down could you post some pics of your intake. I am just curious as to what the differences in between the 84 EFI and 85 and up EFI. Subscribed.

83 Celica Dometop Pistons
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drooling over that celica

 

That is a good looking celica.

 

If i recall from doing the timing chain on my truck, the bright link doesn't always line up, you have to turn it over a number of times before it synchs up again. That could be wrong though, just what I am remembering.

 

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Terry you are partially correct.

Toyota has what is called a Laser block. This block came about around the mid 80's and was used until the 22R/re was ruled out. The laser block was both Carb and EFI. It also used flat top pistons and featured a shorter stroke then the older pre 84 blocks. The laser block can be identified by this picture.


The older Pre 84 blocks are a completely different breed of 22r engines. The block was taller, some cam factory with dual row timing chain. The head ports are different. And a few other things. The EFI cannot be swapped from a laser block to a pre 84 block. However toyota did make a few EFI vehicles that have the pre 84 design and those of swappable between each other. These pre 84 blocks also feature those domed shaped pistons you were talking about

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_engine