I have a '91 22RE long box as my daily driver/off-roader.
I've had the truck since July of '07 with no complaints. It needed an alternator and a belt and a thermostat more recently but nothing major. it has 152km on the original motor/tranny.

I installed a cold air intake and an LC engineering header. it worked awsome with the 2-1/4" exhaust system I made up for it. The weather recently became much cooler here in my home town in Ontario (thats the Ontario in Canada not California). The power usually really starts to come on by about 2000-2500rpms and pulls well til about 4000.

The problem is when you are accelerating up to speed, it seems to be lacking power. if I was to cruise in 3rd or 4th gear @60kph (35-40mph) and try to mat it, it bogs down and sounds like its running on 2 cylinders. If you were to ease up a little on the gas it smoothens out a bit.
From time to time it doesnt even bog (like 5% of the time I'm driving it.)
I find it strange because it drives like how it did before it had the cold air intake and the header. you have to floor it to get anywhere. It seems to accelerates quickly on the tach, but slowly on the speedometer. (like its reving normally to go no where fast, or like one of your budies stuffed a rag in your air box.
Compression is: 1-220psi, 2-190psi, 3-200psi, 4-200psi
Also there is no Check engine light going off either.

Could the Bog be something as simple as the air is just too cold and it bogs because it is getting that much more?
Should I be putting in new Injectors or having them cleaned?
Is my TPS acting up?
Are there sensors or something that would be affecting this problem?

Can anyone point me in the right direction

 

I would not suspect the cold air intake, but just for giggles you could put the old system back in and see if the problem still persistent or perhaps ceases to be. I would, however, clean the injectors anyway and at the same time replace the fuel filter. So do the cheap(and easy) things first for starters.

 

220 psi??? wtf? They came from factory with about 175. Man what you got in that thing? I just did my buddies other day, and it was 170 across the board. Maybe thats your problem. Thats just crazy.

 

lol nothing really. I think it may be the gauge that I was using. its no snap-on or a mac...lol I was more concered about inconsistencies between the cylinders. I think above 150psi it is a little off, probably by like 25psi+/-.

The check engine light came on today and it runs like a sack full of crap. I bet its throwing out a code now...maybe I'll have a place to start if The big Red fella would bring me a scan tool! LOL

 

LOL and I actually was thinking to put the stock intake back on just for a laugh, but...I got lazy and lost interest. I am going to start with new plugs, some wuality time with the haynes manual and a code reader...maybe a case a beer and the old man's shop too. thanks a lot though guys. Merry Christmas!

 

Cylinders wil never be exactly the same, unless its brand new. General rule of thumb is they should be off by no more then 10% of each other. So your in the clear. You had me hating my truck for a sec there, 220 sheesh.

 

Ok turns out as I was driving it a few days before x mas, the check engine light came on as it ran like a sack of crap. I got the codes of it too. Its reading Code 2 and .code 7 2 mass airflow sensor and 7-TPS. I found an article I think Frankenyota or 4crawler on how to check/test and adjust the TPS. I am having a real hard time finding the perfect spot in which I have the corect sensor position. are they extremely difficult to reset? Also I poped the cap off the air flow meter, everything inside looks mint brand new. I put fresh plugs in it, have checked for vaccum leaks and none are to be found. The truck idles fine while cold and not having driven, but on long trips the idle dips down to 500rpm on accasion. Anybody know what I am doing wrong with the tps adjustment?, and what should I to get rid of the the code 2 problem?

 

not sure if this is relevant to what you are talking about, but i was also having a problem with my 4runner( i have the 22RE, manual transmission) and when i was in idle, the REVs were about 1100 or soo. it was to high for a manual truck, or so a friend said to me. there is a srew on top of the throttle body(forgot the name for it, it it controls the amount of air i believe that goes in the EFI system.) adjusting that with a flat head screw driver, my 4Runner now idle at a little above 500 RPMs. and i'v heard that is about normal for a manual car, since you are able to control the REVs when you have the control with the clutch. i don't know if that may help with your idle situation.

 

umm, if youre revs are high but youre not moving, you need a new clutch ahaha it happened to my friends 91,but you never know, it could be something different. get your flywheel resurfaced maybe?

 

yeah it sounds like the clutch.

 

I was thinking clutch problems as well

Oh and PS my grandpa always told me if the vehicle is rough/jerky in reverse, it indicates a clutch problem. May be something to try.

 

A bad clutch wont drop the rpms, will just have to drag it more. A bad clutch is very easy to tell, as long as you check pedal, and slave cyl, you would be able to tell. I was always told that the normal idle for a toyota was 800-1100, just depends. When mines running right, I get out when 4wheelin, and turn my idle to about 2000 so I can ride the break without giving it pedal, or worrying about stalling.

 

Yeah Originally I thought it was the clutch wearing out on me, but it turned out that it was a faulty O2 sensor. I had the wires short out ont the hot exhaust pipe. I was in the middle of nowhere so I just taped the wires together, worked fine till the winter and salty roads and slush came out and coroded the wires. I was lacking the tools and the experience so I took my truck into a yota specialist I know. He found the cam timing off, from that; ignition timing off, TPS maladjusted, and airflow meter wound way too tight. We figured when the previous owner did a timing chain, he may have lost track of the alignment of the punch marks...therefore throwing the rest of the stuff way off causing the engine to run lean. I have never known how dependant the motor is on that O2 sensor. all of the above was fixed and I replaced the O2sensor with a deece used one and problem solved and fuel mileage increased alot.
Thanks for everyone's help