ok, and the later variety are also known to be shoddy and need to be checked?

I did get the bed pushed back thanks to a post here http://img.toyotanation.com/forum/80...ml#post3100004 and another post by a 60 year old man saying he did it, me i did need beer. I'm 5'2" and managed to unbolt, lift and work it back alone, pried a bit and shoved a couple of 2x4s under it here and there, enough to get at the fuel pump area. My bolts were 17mm, none broke, I had to put flame to one screw holding the fuel filler, then i found some tiny vice grips and that did the trick. On my truck i only had to cut loose some old license plate lights that didn't work anyway. I just hacked the plastic wiring clips off that held the other light wires in place, jeezus, did the japanese not invent zip ties??

So far i have good wiring to the pump save the rust around the ground (?) but unable to check the blue one going straight into the pump since it's under another (probably wise) wire protector.

I saw a post of someone running jumper wire from the battery to the pump wires. If i can do this, enough to satisfy myself that it COMES ON given power, for just a sec, would that harm anything, while it's all hooked up?

 

No experience with those but I would think so. It is the 1 into many splice points that cause the problem. You could see if you can find a "noid light" to test if the injectors are firing properly or not. If not, then either the injectors are bad or the wiring is bad.

The approach I took after rebuilding my 22Re and having it not run right was to go through each and every component on the engine. Assume the part is bad and then prove to myself, via FSM test procedures, that it is working right. It is easy to look at some component and say "oh, that can't cause this problem, so I won't test it". But you need to force yourself to check everything. In my case, I thought I had done everything, but a buddy came by one evening while I was under the hood. After about 30 secs. he asked if I knew I was missing a bolt on the EGR valve. Turns out I must not have tightened that bolt all the way and with the rough running engine, it backed out and that led to a fair sized vacuum leak. I had looked at the EGR a bunch of times, but skipped over it because the EGR is not supposed to active at idle, so no way could it cause the rough running and it was working fine before the rebuild. Well, the EGR was fine, but the bolt attaching it to the intake was not.

 

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Why does it say
1. Do not allow the ignition switch to be ON for more than 10 minutes if the engine will not start.

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sorry deleted bunch of irrelevant posts i made here...TRUCK STARTED UP TODAY!!! Was corroded wiring at the fuel pump bracket. My solution over in General Electric. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...nector-247197/

So grateful for all the posts in this forum, walkthroughs by 4crawler, old posts by sb5, Hadmatt, abc, ChefYota, so many others, all the guys and contributors in a 'won't start' thread, the whole Toyota rescue society, and one here by a Ford guy http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0. Special gratitude to Aaron (WristPin) over at mud who gave me a huge push start, and the auto parts guys that gave me the' seniors discount' stating i looked 'haggard', and the owners of pick n pull corp too for sticking a lot in my home town.

Been crawling this internet for weeks printing stuff, never looked under a hood before in my life, everything i touched i broke [sigh], but with all this help learned a lot and finally found the problem and fixed it today. Back in business, not too good at soldering, but even changed brushes on the corolla alternator which had the nerve to try me during this same period!

I just drove (half) the truck to the local dude for preliminary inspection and expect to be back on the hills and highways this week!

whew

PS 1 molasses:9 water 2 week bath works GREAT on rust