Moosewilly

I started out with this truck puffing out black smoke when I bought it and figured the carb needed freshening up, so I rebuilt the carb ect ect and got it to run great!! Smooth idle, no smoke, and great throttle response, so I cut the truck off and shut the hood.. Put the tools away.. Then hopped in to go drive it around.. And it will not idle on It's own now. I've checked all vacuum lines and replaced any that leaked, I've also tried spraying everything with carb cleaner to try to find it but no luck. I've also tried playing with the ignition timing but no luck. Before the rebuild it would start up and run by itself with a very strong and rich idle and never had this problem before. Anything above idle it does great and when you first start it, it will idle on it's own at low rpm but after about 20 seconds it will die without some help. I'm really stumped on this one..

g3bill2

Might be the idle cut off solenoid. think theres a gasket or o-ring that can get screwed up or a bad connection in electrical harness plug.
I put a plug about 2 inches from the solenoid on mine to make it easier to remove.

Moosewilly

I've checked it and it's working properly.. I'm thinking that the manifold is leaking and the rich fuel before was compensating for the vacuum leak. I figured out that it ran good that one time because the choke stayed closed when I had the linkage not hooked up right. The choke works now, if you hold your hand over the carb it'll run right (I guess because it's getting air somewhere else)

g3bill2

If i remember right, you can spray wd-40 around the manifold gasket and if its leaking will be bubbles. what year is your toy. did you check vacuum advance diaphram unit? suck on hose and see if it wont hold. mine was all deteariorated so rebuilt it. if its that could tell you how

Moosewilly

Yeah the diaphrams won't hold vacuum, I've tried carb cleaner to listen for it to idle up but no luck.. So I tried unhooking everything and capping everything off and it still won't idle. I suspect it's either the back end of the manifold on the head or that big plate on the bottom of the manifold.. My YOTA is an 88 reg cab two latch jap bed base model 2wd.. The truck has 135,xxx and the old man I bought it from says that the previous owner replaced the original engine for some reason and it has somewhere around 50,xxx. In 15 years this man put 35,xxx on it going to the dump and hauling wood, the body is as straight as an arrow 👍👌

g3bill2

Sounds like a nice truck if you can figure out the problem. so if you removed and capped the vacuum hoses with continuing issues keep trying. Being you have a 2 wheel drive i think the vac advance diaphram is a easy find but for the 4x4 was very pricey dealer item so i rebuilt it.
Someone should have more ideas on finding the leak if there is one or some valve or? might be a leak form all the smog crap like egr. I went through all the system and checked each valve and switch as in the service manual.

Moosewilly

How do you rebuild the vacuum advance? The advance diaphram is like 150-200$.. I can buy a whole distributor for 75$

g3bill2

going to look and see if i took pics then explain. sent a pm email

pics of rebuilt unit below. i got all the rust off and sprayed it with Extend rust inhibitor. enlarge the second pic and see the crimping marks i made with a small channel lock type plier with good sharp teeth.

Moosewilly

Alright.. I know it's been awhile.. I got the truck to idle now.. The problems were, I had installed the choke linkage wrong, the spark plug on the back of the engine was cross threaded. So it only threaded in about 1/4", and the spacer plate leaked. Now I need to replace or rebuild the vacuum advance because it leaks. It does start up great.. But it has a lopey idle.. As if it has a cam and bogs for a second if you chop the throttle into the second stage. I'm going to try playing with the float height to see if I can massage that out, I know the vacuum advance probably has a little something to do with it..