I want to settle once and for all if this adjustment is done hot like the fsm says or not. I have read somewhere that this is a typo, and I believe it for a few reasons: 1) it will cool off by the time I get it opened up. 2) it would seem that the spacing is to account for the metal expanding as it heats up, so the gap will grow as it cools. It would make more sense if this gap were to account for the engine warming up. 3) the Haynes manual doesn't say anything about doing it hot (normally I would defer to the fsm over the Haynes, but this case seems strange.) I just rebuilt my motor, adjusted valves both cold and warm, couldn't touch it while hot. It has been about 6000 miles so it is time for a valve lash adjust, and I want to do it right. Cold would seem to be easier and make more sense... Thanks for the input.

 

You'll find people doing it both ways with success. Personally I'd rather do it hot so you know exactly where the lash is at when the engine is at operating temp, rather than hoping everything expands evenly as the engine warms up, if that makes sense. Also, if you don't do it fast enough you're making the lash too loose rather than too tight which is safer in terms of not burning a valve.

Head is aluminum and valves are steel which is why the gap is bigger when the engine is hot (head expands more than the valves.)

Get some gloves and practice it a few times. I can usually get my valves set in under ten minutes and the engine stays plenty hot.

 

Thanks for the good info. I hate touching that stuff hot, but I'll do it that way...

 

I know what the FSM says, and I pay close attention to 99% of what it reccomends, but I adhere to the 'set 'em cold' school.
It is my experence that the clearances are generally not larger when the engine is hot, but rather the clearances are slightly smaller.
I use the go-no go type feeler gauges that are ground a couple thousandths smaller at the end than at the middle of the feeler leaf.
This type of feeler gauge is especially handy for folks with little experience using feelers, and they make it near impossible to get the setting too far wrong even when there are wear grooves on the rocker to valve stem face.
When setting cold, I set the intakes 1 thousandth wider than spec, and the exhaust 2 thousandths wider than spec.
A happy 22r makes a little noise.

 

I set mine cold when I rebuilt my motor. I rechecked them warm and they seemed fine. Does make a little noise but it runs pretty well, except when it is cold the idle is a little rough, but no biggie.

I am going I look for some feeler gauges like that. I just make sure the proper one barely fits then I try the next size up to make sure that it doesn't fit. Seems to work... Thanks for the info.

 

The factory spec on the 22re is .008/.012 with engine HOT. So you are setting them to .009/.014 when cold? You read on this forum that the cold setting is slightly tighter and should be .007/.011

My 22re is definitely a little sewing machine, and so is everyone I've ever come across. My valve train makes more noise than my exhaust. I'd actually be worried if I heard a motor that was too quiet! They get quieter the tighter you set the valves, and that's no good if you go too far with it. Too loose will be louder, less power and maybe accelerate wear, but you won't burn up a valve.

 

This is exactly what I do, and then double check once you have the lock nut tightened down.

For what it's worth, common wisdom is that a thousandth either way isn't going to hurt anything on this motor.

 

Yes, I set my valves to a tight .009 and .014 cold.

My experience is that the cold setting is not slightly tighter, but rather is slightly looser, or occasionally the same, hot, or cold.

My old, high mileage 22RE likes my .009 and .014 cold valve lash just fine, and sounds like a well oiled sewing machine, just as you describe.

Others mileage may vary.

I'd like to hear of any others experience who set 22R valves cold.
I don't see any reason to change, and I don't like to have to mess with a hot engine anyway.

Can't say enough good things about the go-no go feelers. Every tool box should have a set!