please bear with me, altough its my 4-1/2 toyota, its my first 22r, so i'm a newb with these carbs. The vehicle in question is an 86 22r 4x4 with only 129,xxx miles. It was a farm truck (and only $250!) so it was neglected to a certain extent. Ever since the day i first started her it idled rough, and then it seemed smoothness of the engine at higher revs seemed to get worse as it warmed up.

did alittle tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, valve lash and timing, and everything is fine. It idles rough, but runs great now above idle. Only problem is it smokes like crazy and stinks like raw fuel (wich it has done since day one). Obviously, its running way too rich. After i did the tune up i figured the only last thing would be the idle mixture screw. I popped off the cap, and messed with the screw, started by turning it in, wich seemed to make it worse. Turning it out made it worse as well.

My first thought after that didnt help it would be the EGR (causing rough idle) OR the original rich mixture fouled out the O2 sensor. So either of them can be bad...

idles like junk, but still runs great above idle. Still smokes and stinks too. Now it has more of a whitish/blue color too it, wich makes me wonder if the valve seals or bad, but with 129k miles, and since it didnt do that before makes me wonder.

Sound like a carb problem? or maybe a vacuum leak? faulty O2, EGR...maybe an internal problem, like valve seals?

 

How fresh is the carb?. I'd start there, maybe a complete re-build is in order for a starting point. Keep us informed.

 

I'm sure its not that fresh. Its gotta be the original. And i;m sure its sucked up its fair share of dust and dirt. (but hey, more off road means less onroad, wich means less winter road salt, wich means 0% rust, wich = the last rust free toyota in the northeast)

napa has re-build kits, right?

 

Ok, whatever that meant. You own more Toyota's than I'll ever see in a lifetime, I can't say for sure napa has a kit in stock for it, but go for it and rebuild it. Then you will have a new starting point. Good luck

 

road salt up here during winter makes toyotas rust to peices. Bassicly saying the cost of re-building the carb due to so much off-road dust is well worth it, rather having the truck rust from on road driving

 

also, the choke is tempermental, i know when its on and when its off, and when it should be on and when it should be off. I know this isnt a choke problem, it runs rich all the time

 

http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

go thru this step by step. helped me a ton

 

seems like no matter what position the mixture screw is in it still runs rich. It even runs with the screw all the way in, wich i thought couldnt happen? sound like some carb internal problems and ready for a rebuild?

 

Many people service their carb when they do a tune up. If this thing has been treated the way you claim it has then it probably has never had anything done to the carb. Considering the type of problem you are having and the fact that you do not know much about this vehicles life (no paperwork, no reciepts) it is a must you rebuild the carb so that you at least have a solid medium to test from.

 

Oh yeah, by the way. Go and buy some new vacuum line so you can replace any that are worn or clogged. I just got through rebuilding my engine this week and when I was replacing hoses many of them were clogged or cracked all over.

 

You shouldnt have an 02 sensor. At least my 22r doesnt.

 

The idle mixture screw, of course, controls fuel only when the engine is at idle. Or to be more specific, when the throttle plate is closet to the idle port. Once the throttle valve is opened beyond idle, vacuum is greater at the other fuel ports than the idle port.

So my question to you is, when you say that is "runs rich", do you mean only at idle or in all throttle positions? You did mention in your first post that it runs great above idle, but I just wanted confirmation.

Second question, have you checked the fuel level in the float bowl?

Third question, you mentioned choke, once the choke is set, does it crack open like it is supposed to upon engine start, e.g. is the "Choke Breaker" working? Does it open completely once the engine warms up to operating temperature?









Oxygen sensors are only on the California trucks as the carburetors are a "feedback" type. The Federal emissions trucks do not have them.

 

Try these before pulling apart carburetor. Clamp off fuel and run it out of fuel. Remove mixture screw and put compressed air and blow out idle passage. Spray the crap out of the top of carb with carb spray. See if you can blow out venturi passages in airhorn. I'd fill the bowel with carb spray thru the bowl vent if possible. Fresh fuel, good luck. Make sure the choke works right.