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Old May 6, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #21  
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I have the day off so I'll get working on this, I took the carb apart yesterday to clean the float bowl and it idled fine fully choked. Before I did this it would not run at all, then last night I saw that there is a jet on the side of the carb near the choke and I decided to pull it and clean it. I tried to start it this morning and it doesn't want to start. I'll report back with my findings, thanks for the help KT!
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Old May 6, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #22  
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Update: I tested the vacuum on the distributor, it seems to hold pressure. I found a vacuum plug on the carb was slightly lose so I put a new cap on it. This truck has 2 gas tanks, only 1 is hooked up but it has 2 electric pumps I noticed. There is a T in the fuel lines I think I may bypass, I put a clear fuel filter in by the carb and I'm getting nothing. I have no idea how the truck ran yesterday unless there was just barely enough suction to feed the carb. Do I need a fuel return line anywhere or will the carb just pull what fuel it needs? I think I am going to buy an inline FPR today also...
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Old May 6, 2013 | 08:42 AM
  #23  
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Update: The electric pump makes noise, but its not pumping anything. I blew in the line before the pump and I can hear bubbles in the gas tank. I pulled the line on the other side of the pump and no fuel is coming out when I turn the pump on...
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Old May 6, 2013 | 08:55 AM
  #24  
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does the fuel pump have a filter screwed into the back of it (tank side)? mine is metal, about the size and shape of a co2 cartridge. i would check that first, if you have rust or something in the tank that filter would be the first to clog. take it off blow some air through it in the opposite direction of fuel flow. you may have a bad fp, but since it makes noise go ahead and check that filter first
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:06 AM
  #25  
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Ok, I have it running again on full choke and idling smooth. I'm going to search for vacuum leaks now, if nothing comes up should I adjust the mixture screws?
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:28 AM
  #26  
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The truck is running and idling now without choke . The idle seems a bit high I'm going to take a break from the gas fumes and try to adjust it later.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:35 AM
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From: Portland Oregon
yea, the right way is to warm it up then shut it off, set carb to baseline, fire it up, then fine tune it. air screw 1st then idle speed. you need to have the engine warm, choke off and have proper timing to achieve the best results from idle tuning so if you can, get a timing light on it now.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #28  
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From: Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by Beav
The truck is running and idling now without choke . The idle seems a bit high I'm going to take a break from the gas fumes and try to adjust it later.


Do tell, what did you find in there while battling the fumes and grime? was there any one thing that seemed to set it straight or did the system just need to run for a while to clear out the cobwebs?
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Old May 6, 2013 | 11:02 AM
  #29  
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I'm not 100% sure what prevented fuel from the carb, but here is what I did. I first took out the T that was after both fuel pumps, I think there was air getting in from the fuel pump not in use. After I bypassed that I still was not getting fuel upto the carb, what I did after this was pull the line connected to the carb and ran it as low as I could. This is what got the fuel to start coming to the end of the line, and it pumped fine after that.

For adjusting the carb, Is there a screw to adjust the mixture at higher rpm? It seems to idle fine with a little bit of tuning but it seems to need more fuel when the throttle is open.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #30  
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the idle circuit is all you will adjust with screws, once you crack the throttle all that is bypassed, to get more fuel under load would mean bigger jets, people who get really into tuning their webers always buy jet kits and play with fuel and air metering that way, i had a stumble when i dumped the throttle, i fixed it with a timing tweak, but my weber was on a built 22r, then i put it on my stock 20r, so i have the opposite problem, i cant give it enough air to get max performance but it runs nice and gets up pretty good when i open up the secondary
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Old May 6, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #31  
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From: Portland Oregon
there are weber threads and gurus who can give you the ultimate run down of how to maximize that carbs potential, ill be getting into the nitty gritty pretty soon when i swap my 20r for a 22r ive been working on, for now my truck runs ok and is my dd so im not messing with it until i see how it behaves on the new engine.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 04:58 PM
  #32  
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I just got home and now the fuel pump wont pump upto the carb...so frustrating.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 05:40 PM
  #33  
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I found a back pressure valve was preventing the fuel from getting to the carb. Next task is figuring out whats going on with the trailer lights on the flatbed...
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 01:55 PM
  #34  
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From: So CAl
I wonder if he figured the fuel out yet, havnt seen any updates from him? The early bodies are crazy looking though, I am sure their are not many out 60's trucks out there
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 04:25 PM
  #35  
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I did get the fuel issue sorted out, and the truck runs good. I havn't dealt with the turn signal wiring yet...
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 04:32 PM
  #36  
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From: So CAl
Fuel

Great to here that it runs good, I am starting on mine this week coming up and I know I will be asking a bunch of questions. Thanks for posting it is giving me ideas of whats ahead for me.
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