I just bought this truck, I think it has a Stout body on an early 80's 4x4 frame. Can anyone help me Id the year of the frame? The body is a 66. Thanks

I'm not sure how to upload photos, I think they are in my gallery. I'll search how to upload when I get home.

 

Upload pictures to photobucket. Then post them here. Its super easy.

 

Mistake.

 

 

your first guess is correct ... it is what you think


.

 

What is the best way to narrow down the year of the motor?

 

That thing is awesome. The thought of making one of those has run through my head a few times.

 

Its an early 22r '84 maybe.

 

Thanks, trying to narrow down the year so I know what to search for parts.

 

You can't really say that just by what you see there. (Valve Cover is interchangeable)

You need to identify the block to see if its a laser block or not. If you will look on the driver side of block right above oil pan you may or may not see a laser cut. Below is a pic

If you do not have the ( toyota Bowie) then you have a 84 back engine. If you do then u have a 85-95 engine

 

front axle is from an 80. the motor is out of an 81+ i would guess an early 22r due to the dual diaphragm on the dizzy

 

also it must have an electric fuel pump on there somewhere. and might want to put a fpr inline before that webber carb.

 

If your talking about the distributor have dual vacuum ports then I must say that's not year specific either. My 87 is carbed with the exact distributer and it is a laser block

 

so once you look for the laser cut on the block you will know if it is 85+ or 84-, beyond that (provided nobody did a conversion) you can pop the valve cover and look for a dual row timing chain, that would indicate 81,82, single row in later years, beyond thaatt you can look at the position of the notch on the center main bearing surface (block not cap), if it has the notch on the forward side it is a late/early (83-84) and if it is centered it is a plain old early (81-82) the notch is the teller (thank you Tod for the engine I.D. 101)

 

It does have an electric fuel pump, what fpr should i put inline? I wish the weather here in MN wasn't so poor lately so I could dig into it a little more. You guys have been a great help!

 

I seem to have an issue with my carb, it will only run decent fully choked. If anyone has a suggestion let me know. I'm going to research it tonight, I've never had a carbed truck.

 

you have a vac leak without a doubt, when i bought my 80 with the stock 20r and original carb the PO said he couldnt get it to idle he fiddled around with all the adjustments haphazardly (face palm) and gave up, i already had a weber for it lined up so i didnt put much effort in to the aisin carb, but...as i was unplugging vac lines i found one little sneaky one completely unhooked, for giggles i hooked em all back up and turned the key, bam the truck idled, it was kinda wonky due to the fiddling but i no longer needed to have my hand over the carb with my fingers barely letting air through to keep it from dying, so you are experiencing a too lean condition with choke open....this can be too much air, or the right air but too little fuel... since you can get it to idle choked i would search for vac leaks first, do whatever you gotta do to keep it running at a constant rpm, doesnt matter what rpm so much as long as its mostly steady, i like the propane torch method, let gas out without the flame on of course, get the nozzle really close to the spot you are checking and search around any and all vac lines and caps, check intake man. gasket, carb base, brake booster vac hose, pcv hose everything, if at any point the idle changes you found your culprit... fix it....

 

next up is fuel supply, it looks like the fuel line feeding your carb is one size too big and has no hose clamp, double clamp the sucker on tight for now,....inline fuel filters are dirt cheap, replace em all, hose clamps too, any sketchy looking rubber fuel line too, dont forget to look near the electric fp, use clear platic cheapo ff for now, you can see gas flowing through them if the flow looks healthy your fp is prob fine, if the problem is still there it is on to carb and timing....

 

before tearing apart the carb clean it where it is, clean around it well first so you dont wash a buncha outside crud down in there, buy a can or two of carb cleaner and go to town, take the air filter off (duh) and rev it with one hand while spraying down in there with the other, if you have to go deeper, you are going to spend some money so we will move to the next step, distributor timing, if you have no advance at idle due to a bad vac advance diaphragm it is possible that with the carb intake shut more vac is going to the advance, overriding the pinhole in it allowing it to function artificially , so get a piece of hose and hook it to one port on the dizzy, suck on it, it should hold vac indefinitely if it allows you to suck air through either vac port you have a bad vac advance unit, if so for now plug up the faulty port and its corresponding manifold or carb port and see if you can get it to idle better with a manual timing adjustment the timing will be far from stock just tune by ear until you like the idle,

 

ok you are here and it still wont run right, go online here and learn how to take the jets and accelerator pump out, personally at that point i would either replace whatever i took out or if you are mechanically confident, rebuild that weber completely, however if at any point you have made the truck run better by doing the above you will be set up for some simple idle tuning of the weber, baseline settings are 1 1/2 turns out on the air mixture screw, it is down low on the passenger side with a spring take it out first and make sure not to drop it or the spring, make sure it has a smooth tapered tip to a tiny tiny bit of a flat point if its mashed of bent or otherwise boogered up its junk, assuming its ok put it back in gently screw it all the way in until it stops dont hulk out on it, or it will get damaged, back it out 1 1/2 turns, now the idle speed adjustment, cycle the throttle linkage and notice the longish thin screw that the idle linkage hits when the linkage is released kinda higher up on the firewall side of the carb with the head facing the passenger side, back it out until it no longer makes contact with the throttle stop, now screw it in until it just touches, now go 2 turns and stop, then go start the truck, it will be barely running, dont touch the idle speed....i know you want to but dont, air screw first go in or out until it idles a bit more evenly and quicker go until it gets worse then go back to the best setting, now go for idle speed, get the idle to 800-900, 1000 is ok too its just a little higher than ideal, if youre running now you have only spent about 12 bucks on fuel filters, 4 bucks on some vac caps, and maybe 15 all together for some fuel and vac lines, 6 bucks on carb cleaner, 5 bucks on hose clamps and if a propane torch was impossible to come by, 3 more dollars on a can of starting fluid for the vac leak check, this gets you in right around 40 bucks, if a carb rebuild is in the stars, dont worry you can do it, bags, labels, photos, a clean baking sheet and a magnetic nut bowl in front of your computer will have you rebuilding that thing like a champ, good luck!