1993 Toyota 4x4 22RE Turbo Tips
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1993 Toyota 4x4 22RE Turbo Tips
I just had my engine rebuilt about 2-3,000 miles ago, and it's still pretty sluggish. Everyone else says their's is slow too. So, i was considering putting a low boost turbo on it. I've read some threads on here, and everyone is saying you need injectors, blah blah blah, all this crap. Someone let me know what your theory is on turboing a 22re, and what kind of precautions i need to take in doing so. I'm a student at WyoTech but haven't gotten into the automotive course yet to ask the instructors their opinion and what to do. So let me know what you guys think! Thanks!
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need to make sure that the rods will take it and that the motor is set up for it so your making your engine a ticking time bomb. there isnt really a cheap way to go about it. and former techer i know money is tight. i take it your a blue berry hahaha sorry couldnt resist
#6
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garsh... an engine with 3.5" of stroke is slow... It'll pull anything I want... And it gets 20MPg... but it's slow... SLOW I TELL YA!!!
If you want to start out cheap, and with factory parts...
I'd drill the passages for the Turbo oiler and return line... Get all the RET electronics and injectors, an RTE manifold and Supra AFM...
And either get a RET head, or RTE pistons... you shouldn't need both (with 7 -10 psi) but IMO doing both will offer you more insurance.
Get ready for head gaskets, oh and to pull your engine...
hope it's all worth it!
Cylinder Head Identification
1975 - 1980 20R Cylinder Head
Round Intake Port
Round Exhaust Port
80/81 C.C. Chamber
Intake Valve Diameter 43mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 35mm
1981 - 1984 22R Cylinder Head
Square Intake Port
Round Exhaust Port
82/83 C.C. Chamber
Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm
1985 - 1995 22R-22RE Cylinder Head
Square Intake Port
Pear Shape Exhaust Port
52/54 C.C. Combustion Chamber
82/83 C.C. Chamber (Turbo) Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm
Engine Block Identification
1975 - 1980 20R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 88.5mm - 3.484\"
Maximum Over Bore 90.0mm - 3.544\"
1981 - 1984 22R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Maximum Over Bore (Cast Piston) 93.0mm - 3.662\" (+.040\" Over)
Big Bore Forged Piston Kit 94.0mm - 3.701\" (+.080\" Over)
1985 - 1995 22R-22RE \"Laser Block\"
Deck Height 11.090\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Maximum Over Bore (Cast Piston) 93.0mm - 3.6662\" (+.040\")
Big Bore Forged Piston Kit 94.0mm - 3.701\" (+.080\" Over)
All Toyota 20R - 22R - 22RE engines use the same crankshaft and connecting rods. To accommodate the different deck heights, Toyota changed the compression height (piston pin location).
If you want to start out cheap, and with factory parts...
I'd drill the passages for the Turbo oiler and return line... Get all the RET electronics and injectors, an RTE manifold and Supra AFM...
And either get a RET head, or RTE pistons... you shouldn't need both (with 7 -10 psi) but IMO doing both will offer you more insurance.
Get ready for head gaskets, oh and to pull your engine...
hope it's all worth it!
Cylinder Head Identification
1975 - 1980 20R Cylinder Head
Round Intake Port
Round Exhaust Port
80/81 C.C. Chamber
Intake Valve Diameter 43mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 35mm
1981 - 1984 22R Cylinder Head
Square Intake Port
Round Exhaust Port
82/83 C.C. Chamber
Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm
1985 - 1995 22R-22RE Cylinder Head
Square Intake Port
Pear Shape Exhaust Port
52/54 C.C. Combustion Chamber
82/83 C.C. Chamber (Turbo) Intake Valve Diameter 44.5mm
Exhaust Valve Diameter 36.5mm
Engine Block Identification
1975 - 1980 20R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 88.5mm - 3.484\"
Maximum Over Bore 90.0mm - 3.544\"
1981 - 1984 22R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Maximum Over Bore (Cast Piston) 93.0mm - 3.662\" (+.040\" Over)
Big Bore Forged Piston Kit 94.0mm - 3.701\" (+.080\" Over)
1985 - 1995 22R-22RE \"Laser Block\"
Deck Height 11.090\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Maximum Over Bore (Cast Piston) 93.0mm - 3.6662\" (+.040\")
Big Bore Forged Piston Kit 94.0mm - 3.701\" (+.080\" Over)
All Toyota 20R - 22R - 22RE engines use the same crankshaft and connecting rods. To accommodate the different deck heights, Toyota changed the compression height (piston pin location).
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 03-04-2010 at 01:41 PM.
#7
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Location: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
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oh, and it won't get 20MPG anymore... and it won't come anywhere NEAR the 300,000 mile trouble free mark a PM'd 22RE would give...
but you will have.... POWA!!!
but you will have.... POWA!!!
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#8
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Coming from a guy who's built several turbo motors, here are the key points I can't stress enough:
-Make sure your engine is in perfect working order before you start. No sense putting money into a worn out motor. Check all bearing clearances, cylinder leakdown, oil pump clearances, etc. Trust me, I've lost thousands of dollars over simple things like "Oops, the thrust washers were worn"
-Metal head gaskets, and ARP head studs are a VERY worthwhile investment. Make sure you get the head and block machined flat, and more importantly SMOOTH enough for the MHG by a competent machine shop.
-Spend money on sensors! Wideband O2, EGT, oil pressure, manifold pressure and water temp are what I would consider NECESSARY. Fuel pressure's good to have too.
-Run a very light spring in your wastegate, like 5psi, and get a boost controller to bump it up. You CAN run boost just fine on stock compression ratio, you just need to make sure you're not running too much timing, and that the air charge is cold (intercool it!). My brother ran 17psi on 9.5:1 CR for years, with a properly set up car.
Get a hold of the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell, and read it cover to cover before you even start collecting parts.
-Make sure your engine is in perfect working order before you start. No sense putting money into a worn out motor. Check all bearing clearances, cylinder leakdown, oil pump clearances, etc. Trust me, I've lost thousands of dollars over simple things like "Oops, the thrust washers were worn"
-Metal head gaskets, and ARP head studs are a VERY worthwhile investment. Make sure you get the head and block machined flat, and more importantly SMOOTH enough for the MHG by a competent machine shop.
-Spend money on sensors! Wideband O2, EGT, oil pressure, manifold pressure and water temp are what I would consider NECESSARY. Fuel pressure's good to have too.
-Run a very light spring in your wastegate, like 5psi, and get a boost controller to bump it up. You CAN run boost just fine on stock compression ratio, you just need to make sure you're not running too much timing, and that the air charge is cold (intercool it!). My brother ran 17psi on 9.5:1 CR for years, with a properly set up car.
Get a hold of the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell, and read it cover to cover before you even start collecting parts.
#9
Turbo on a 4x4 1993 toyota pickup 3.0 Engine V6 ?
Hello , I have a Toyota 1993 pickup 4x4 V6 3.0 Engine and would like to know if there is a way to install a turbo to my truck. I been reading a lot about it and basically everyone sais its possible but will be a ticking time bomb. I would like to know if it is possible to install one and have the truck still running smoothly as well as the turbo. And if you know of someone who has successfully got it done , please let me know.. Thanks.
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