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1992 4runner... I wanna go higher :)

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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 09:21 PM
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1992 4runner... I wanna go higher :)




This is my 1992 4runner, I bought it about a year ago it came with a 4" pro comp lift and 32" procomp mud terrains.
Since then I put on 33x12.5 km2's on 15x10 super singles.

I have an urge to go higher with this truck,
I plan on using:
1.5" 4crawler bj spacers up front
2" 4crawler coil spacers
Custom 6" 4crawler panhard drop bracket
And a 3" body lift

Ending up at 9" total
This truck is pretty much a "mall crawler" lol it doesn't see much action besides some sand occasionally.
I know I'm going to need new shocks, it has the procomp ones from the lift but I need bigger ones right? I'm thinking either bilstein or pro comps, what legnth would I need for those part numbers would be appreciated,

I have thought about using lc lift coils, what height lift coils would I use?

Any input really helps.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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Start with the body lift.
It's quick, simple to install/remove and cheap.
An extra 3" of lift is a lot.
Plus jumping into a taller and taller vehicle starts to feel like getting into the top bunk of a bunk-bed with no ladder.

Too much lift is not only dangerous off-road but on-road as well.
You take a corner too fast or there's a nice pothole around a corner, and you might find yourself shiny side down.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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its cheaper in the long run just to do sas and leaf swap or sas and lift rear coils to match and better offroad and actually drives great on the road. alot funner to drive a truck thats sas'd then ifs.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Stuwy123
Start with the body lift.
It's quick, simple to install/remove and cheap.
An extra 3" of lift is a lot.
Plus jumping into a taller and taller vehicle starts to feel like getting into the top bunk of a bunk-bed with no ladder.

Too much lift is not only dangerous off-road but on-road as well.
You take a corner too fast or there's a nice pothole around a corner, and you might find yourself shiny side down.
I was planning on doing the suspension first but body sounds easier if I wanna take it off later on haha.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Countryhick
its cheaper in the long run just to do sas and leaf swap or sas and lift rear coils to match and better offroad and actually drives great on the road. alot funner to drive a truck thats sas'd then ifs.
I thought about doing an sas
But I don't use it enough for it to be worth my while, on top of that I'm only gonna be in Hawaii till August then I'm off to college this beast is staying home.
And shipping to Hawaii is rediculous plus parts here cost an arm and a leg haha.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:20 AM
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You should just leave it the way it is. Are you planning on running larger tires?
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by drmix
You should just leave it the way it is. Are you planning on running larger tires?
I'm gonna keep it on 33's,
I just wanna go higher lol.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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If the tires don't rub when turning or in full articulation, then there is no benefit or reason to lifting it even higher. The only think it will do it change the center of gravity for the worse, making it more prone to tipping over on the trail (or in your case, the sand dunes) and most importantly, the street as Stuwy123 stated.

Your runner looks like a beast how it sits right not and I think it would looks goofy if it were to be any taller on those size tires.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Xtra-Cab
If the tires don't rub when turning or in full articulation, then there is no benefit or reason to lifting it even higher. The only think it will do it change the center of gravity for the worse, making it more prone to tipping over on the trail (or in your case, the sand dunes) and most importantly, the street as Stuwy123 stated.

Your runner looks like a beast how it sits right not and I think it would looks goofy if it were to be any taller on those size tires.
I think it's just the Hawaii mentality haha,
High & wide

My fronts do rub at full turn in the fronts, I'm thinking of just doing the 3" body and stretching these km2's on my 15x12 alcoas.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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I wouldn't know anything about that. I'm stuck here in Maryland

If by front, you mean front valance, I'd say just trim it a bit.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Xtra-Cab
I wouldn't know anything about that. I'm stuck here in Maryland

If by front, you mean front valance, I'd say just trim it a bit.
Hawaii mentality is straight front on 12" Chevy springs with 35x15.5 boggers stretched on 15x20 reals.
Haha all show no offroad at all.

It's both the valance and the bottom of the fender.
Only when I'm full turn and I hit a bump or dip.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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4Runner looks real good now, don't ruin it.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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uh... why?

do you have any clue how unstable the truck would be with a bracket lift, coil spacers and a 3" body lift on 33s? Not to mention how ridiculous it would look.

Leave it how it is, it looks fine, and it hasn't been cut up to fit the ugly standards of a "hawaiian mentality" truck.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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From: Monkton, MD
Originally Posted by 808 4 runner
It's both the valance and the bottom of the fender.
Only when I'm full turn and I hit a bump or dip.
Trim the valance a bit, but don't take it off completely. I hate it when people do that. In regards to the rubbing on the bottom of the fender, I'm not really sure about that. You could always trim the bottom at an angle. Mine rubs too and the left side is rusted out at the bottom, so when I go to fix it, I'm gonna bend the bottom at a slight angle so it doesn't rub and then hammer the pinch weld. You could always trim it, but I would hate to do that on yours because it's so clean.

On an unrelated note, I see you have Warn hubs. Have you ever had problems with them? I've been thinking about a manual hub conversion for some time. It has just been the lack of money and time that has inhibited me from doing it. I've been going back and forth between Aisins and Warns. Warns for cost, aisins for durability. I don't want to turn this into a Manual Hub Conversion thread. I'm just asking your opinion xD
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Xtra-Cab
Trim the valance a bit, but don't take it off completely. I hate it when people do that. In regards to the rubbing on the bottom of the fender, I'm not really sure about that. You could always trim the bottom at an angle. Mine rubs too and the left side is rusted out at the bottom, so when I go to fix it, I'm gonna bend the bottom at a slight angle so it doesn't rub and then hammer the pinch weld. You could always trim it, but I would hate to do that on yours because it's so clean.

On an unrelated note, I see you have Warn hubs. Have you ever had problems with them? I've been thinking about a manual hub conversion for some time. It has just been the lack of money and time that has inhibited me from doing it. I've been going back and forth between Aisins and Warns. Warns for cost, aisins for durability. I don't want to turn this into a Manual Hub Conversion thread. I'm just asking your opinion xD
As long as I've had the truck the warns have been great, no problems. Takes 3/4 of a turn to engage them. I've heard the aisins are stronger but I've changed wheel bearings and looked at the inner workings of the warns and to me they look pretty strong. I've shifted on the fly in sand from 2high to 4high at 30mph a couple times with no problems. That's the only thing I love about these automatic transmissions.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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I would stay away from a 3in body lift. The ball joint spacers up front with adjusting your torsion bars should be plenty. For the rear, it is easy to get your height from longer shackles, a small block, and lifted springs. Will look and handle a lot better this way.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 01:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BIGTOY88
I would stay away from a 3in body lift. The ball joint spacers up front with adjusting your torsion bars should be plenty. For the rear, it is easy to get your height from longer shackles, a small block, and lifted springs. Will look and handle a lot better this way.
Depending on the level of offroad action you plan on experiencing, you should stay away from body lifts, period.

Pros:
Cheap
They add clearance for tires
Great for mall crawlers

Cons:
Offer no gain in overall clearance.
No suspension benefit, like gains in travel
Are sometimes very ugly, depending on what vehicle and lift height.

^Kinda off topic and it is probably stuff everyone knows, but whatever...
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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From: vancouver wash right now and creswell or
wat a shame someone to put boggers on a 20 inch rim and i hate wide tire.. probally better for the sand though. just leave it the way it is body lifts are stupid unless maybe a 1 inch for a nut fuzz of clearance for tires if u need and y bigger and u can see the frame and all and looks bad because since your a mall crawler at heart looks is wat u care about
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