ok i need help on connecting the flywheel to the tourque converter because there are like 5 or 6 bolts and one of the bolts is like a thread longer than all the rest and i was wondering if anyone knew if there was a way to tell where the one longer bolt goes in? ....thanks for your help

 

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it is probably just a longer bolt to help pull the converter in to get the rest of the bolts started. if the converter is pushed in all the way into the bellhousing properly. the regular bolts might not reach the converter, thus the helpful longer bolt. it shouldn't matter which hole you use it on. don't listen to me though. i have no experience with these year models, that is just my edumacated guess from the experience that i do have.

 

I agree with toyaholic

 

It shouldn't matter, the bolt pattern should be equally spaced. Just make sure the converter is seated all the way into the front of the trans before you mount the trans bellhousing to the engine. If installed properly, when the bellhousing is mated to the engine, the converter bolt studs should come thru the flexplate, but not be bound up. You should be able to wiggle the bolt studs in the flexplate holes before installing the nuts. If it isn't free to move a little, pull the trans back out, and try reseating the converter again.

 

i am having this same problem, i think my torque converter is not seating all the way in. It's somehow getting stuck. do i need to be in gear, or park? is there some kind of trick installing the torque converter to an auto transmition bell housing in the truck. The engine is removed. I'd much rather not remove the trans from the truck. Is this possible? or an i just going about this the wrong way?


87 4Runner
rebuilt 22RE IFS

 

What always worked for me was to first make sure the trans was supported on a stable surface. Slide the converter hub over the input and stator shafts of the trans until they appear to bottom out. Then, while supporting the the center hub on the back side of the converter with one hand, turn the converter with the other. As the converter turns, lift up on the center hub and push in toward the trans. Usually you will feel two separate 'bumps' as the stator splines engage, then the hub engages the pump gear. Once the converter is fully engaged to the pump assy. mate the bellhousing to the engine. I use a set of guide pins to help get the bolt holes lined up. You can make a set of guide pins by finding two bolts of the same thread as the bellhousing to engine bolts only about an inch or two longer. Grind the head off and cut a screwdriver slot in the end. Thread one into each side of the engine block and use them to help align the bellhousing when bringing the trans up to the engine. While bringing the trans up to the engine, align the studs on the converter with the bolt holes in the flexplate. When the bellhousing is flush with the engine, the converter studs should protrude through the flexplate bolt holes, but you should still be able to move the converter slightly. It should NOT be bound up tight to the flexplate. If that is good, put your bellhousing to engine bolts in and tighten them just enough to bring the bellhousing flush against the block. Check the converter clearance to the flexplate again, it still should be somewhat loose. If it is, put the converter nuts on, if not pull the trans and try seating the converter into the pump again.

PS; I just re-read your post, and now realize the trans is still in the truck, and the engine is out. My method of installing the converter is still the same, you will just have to climb into the engine compartment to do it. Just remember, lift and turn at the same time to get the converter to drop into place. When dropping the engine into the truck and up to the trans, the principle is still the same. You should use guide pins to help line the engine and trans up. If you are installing the engine while the truck is on the ground, you will probably need a friend to help line up the converter studs to the flexplate from below while the engine is mating to the trans. I would also use a jack under the trans pan to raise the front of the trans up to help with lining everything up.

 

to seat the torque converter properly, i usually just spinin 1 direction(20-30rev) and keep pressure on it and all the gears will lock into place. havent tried on 4runner AT, but on another toyota works fine.

if it is in place, the torque converter will go in very far. itll seem weird at first but thats what the long bolt is there for.

not seating in properly will cause catastrophic result, and my neighbor have seen one being put in not properly.

btw, id recommend replacing the torque converter input seal while youre at it.