Add an auxiliary outlet

Tools/Materials Used:
Cordless drill/driver (You won’t be drilling anything!)
Wire strippers/crimpers
Dremel (or knife might work)
Needle-nose pliers
Electrical tape
**Double sided 3m tape
Zip ties- 3 ea.
Custom Accessories 10242 Auxiliary Twin Power Outlet (Purchased at Walmart)
Littelfuse Blister Pack - Fuse Holder (Part # FHM200BP)- 1 ea. (Purchased at Oreilly’s, Autozone has them too)
Blue butt wire connectors- 2 ea.
Fishtape or metal coat hanger.
12 ga. wire- about 10’ for positive.
12 ga. wire- about 4’ for ground.
Self tapping screw- 1 ea.
Eyelet terminal connector- 1 ea.

1. BEFORE YOU START: The purpose of this mod is to give you additional 12 volt outlets without causing damage by cutting or breaking any factory part of your 4runner. You don’t need to disconnect your battery, but don’t turn on your vehicle. Don’t even put your key in the ignition (just so you’re not tempted).
2. Remove center console plastic. Using your hands, slowly pull up on the silver center portion of the console. It will have several clips that pop in so just work it up carefully. Once removed, slip the plastic over the shifter and out of the way.
3. Remove the rear a/c vent plastic. Using your hands, grab the top of the on the a/c vent plastic (rear of the center console) and pull backwards slowly. This piece also has several clips, but it comes out easily.
4. Attach 12 ga. positive wire to fishtape (or coat hanger) and push it through the center console starting from the shifter area going to the rear a/c vents. Detach the wire and feed it up the bracket for the center console armrest.
5. Take other end of the wire and feed it towards the dash hugging the driver-side of the center console. I then fed it along the inside of the lower dash panel until it reached the fuse panel.
6. Take the 12 ga. negative wire and feed one end starting from the rear a/c vents down towards the floor board along the driver-side.
7. Remove plastic cover hiding driver seat floorboard mount. It just snaps in place.
8. Take other end of negative wire and feed it up the bracket for the center console armrest. Now you’re done running wires!
9. Take the negative wire end near the driver seat floorboard mount and strip/crimp the eyelet connector. Use drill and self tapping screw to install eyelet connector into the seat mount metal. Make sure the screw is tight so there’s no wiggle of the eyelet.
10. Install old seat mount plastic cover.
11. Remove the Kleenex plastic holder from under the armrest. It’s held in by clips that pop out easily. Take dremel and remove a small (1/4” by 1/4” piece) from the bottom side of the holder so you can feed the wires through it once re-installed.
12. Take your auxiliary outlet and cut any connectors that may have been installed on the ends of the wires. Strip the wires. Using a blue butt connector, take both positive wires and crimp them together. Repeat this for the negative wires.
13. Feed wires through the Kleenex holder and re-install into the armrest. Push the auxiliary outlet into the Kleenex holder. **This is where I added a piece of double sided 3m tape to help keep the outlet from moving inside the Kleenex holder.
14. Zip tie both wires to the armrest hinge.
15. Re-install a/c vent plastic by pushing clips back into place.
16. Re-install center console plastic by pushing clips back into place.
17. Remove fuse panel cover on lower dash. Remove 15 amp “power outlet” fuse using needle-nose pliers. Take mini add-a-circuit kit and install old 15 amp fuse into the first slot. It’s a tight fit, but the prongs should go all the way down. Take a 10 amp fuse supplied with the kit and install into the second slot (slot with the wire coming out of the side of it).
18. Take the 12 ga. positive wire you ran earlier and crimp it using the connector provided with the kit.
19. Plug the add-a-circuit fuse holder into the existing 15 amp slot on your fuse panel. Zip tie positive wire along the lower dash panel so it doesn’t move around. Reinstall fuse panel cover. YOU’RE DONE!!