Alright guys i'm going to start my Y-pipe mod tomorrow. On the passenger side i'm using 1 7/8" pipe down to the Y then it will be 2.5" to the cat, muffler and out. Is it ok to keep the driver's side pipe or do i need to downsize it to 1 7/8" also? I already blocked off the crossover part of the driver's manifold so now i'm starting to run the pipe and weld it all together. These two threads are sort of what I'm working off of.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estions-90037/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...33/index3.html

Any questions or comments/info are more than welcome. Pics to come!

edit: i'm just going to use 2.25" from both manifolds and 2.5" from where they meet to the tailpipe

 

post pics please

 

I would stick with a 2" or smaller pipe from each manifold, then a 2.25-2.5" from the cat (if you're running one)

Hot exhaust travels faster then cool exhaust. And I HIGHLY doubt you would benifit from that size of piping ... well.. unless you are constaintly redlining it..

 

i'm still using 2.25" pipe from both manifolds and 2.5 where they meet to the cat, muffler and out, but i will be coating them in ceramic paint and header wrap to keep the suction effect going

 

some delays came up like always...the transfer case cooler was in the way so in order to relocate it.. I took the hard lines off and using 3/8" OD copper pipe and a flare tool i made my own hard lines just long enough to hook up the soft ones to. This seemed easier than machining the correct fittings. Pics to come tonight

 

finally picture time. I decided to wait until i get the exhaust done before deciding where to relocate my transfer case cooler to. I only had an hour or two to work on the exhaust today before dark but here are some pics of the passenger side downpipe.

Using the stock X-over pipe, i cut it off and rotated it until the right angle was achieved, and re-welded it to the flange. Next one 1 7/8" to 2 1/4" adapter was welded on to a 90* bend that was cut off so the next piece of pipe would be horizontal next to the frame rail. The end of this pipe stops right before the transmission crossmember. Tomorrow i will add about 5" of pipe to the end of this completed section and cut a 90* bend to the correct angle so the passenger side pipe will come down as pictured and cross behind the transfercase before meeting up with the driver's pipe at a Y. Thats all for now, i should have more tomorrow night.

pop's helpin fit the pipe

view from the rear

how it looks at the moment


as always if you have any questions or comments i'd be glad to hear em

 

finished! finally..took a little longer than expected but i'm happy with the result, not too bad for my first time weldin up an exhaust

where the driver and passenger side meet behind the x-fer case


comming down from the passenger manifold


3/8" copper pipe and original hardware used to relocate x-fer case cooler...


cooler relocated to outside of passenger frame rail. cut the original bracket to make a nice mud guard. the lines run between the body and frame


view from the back

 

sound clip?

 

Any noticeable gains??

 

will get sound clip up and see if i get any gains tomorrow night, as when i went to start the engine (new longblock) for its first time, i found that my AFM was faulty so i am swapping it out for a new one at O'Rilley's tomorrow

 

looks good!

 

that is sweet! is it loud?

 

Old thread bump. Sorry, but I found this and am interested in an update.
How has the wrap and everything worked out. ANy problems with the tranny cooler relocator?

 

yeah i wanna know if there is any power gains. or problems of anykind

 

the wrap kinda let me down, i made the mistake of hitting it with the pressure washer so in spots it has fallen apart. the tranny relocator i made with copper pipe and a flare tool worked great! no leaks or any problems. i thought the paint would stay because it was high temp ceramic but it burned off and stunk for a few days. other than that, i'm happy with it.

 

ok, but was it worth it? i mean you had the engine out already so the crossover pipe was easily removed. but if i were to do it the engine would already be in the truck soo would you say it would be worth it?

 

and something I question, is the 1.875" (1 7/8") pipe for the "crossover" / right side bank exhaust piping (right side viewed from the driver's seat).
someone above (I think Jay351) mentioned using with 2" or smaller pipe to maintain velocity (for the purpose of scavenging maybe?). Admittedly, 1.875" (1 7/8") is smaller than the 2" mentioned by Jay351, but is there a need for even that large size of pipe? Consider the volume of gasses emitted by the 3 cylinders on that side is less than a 22re which has approximately that size pipe from the cat back... maybe more on par with a 1.5 litre Suzuki 3 cylinder, which has an approximate 1.25" pipe at the muffler.

Given that one can 'reasonably' assume that since the right side cylinder bank (viewed from the driver's position) has a longer distance for the exhaust to travel in order to enter the catalytic converter than the left side does, it appears that the 'right' cylinders' exhaust will have had somewhat more time... and more surface area exposed to atmosphere due to the longer piping to contribute to the effect... to cool off, and should actually have had its piping diameter large next to the manifold and reduced in one or more steps (to the point of having a somewhat smaller diameter tubing than the left bank has at the point the two merge) in order to maintain velocity as the gas density increased (due to cooling), no?

I also question wrapping the pipe, as wrapping causes the pipe to heat up and oxidize quicker. Any thoughts?

And please do not mention the 'ceramic' coating as a means to fight heating the pipe up- the coating was applied to the 'exterior' of the pipe, not the interior, therefore the pipe wall itself would be exposed to the full heat of the exhaust, not insulated by a ceramic coating....
also, the ceramic coating only serves the same purpose as the wrap.

 

wow...

so, where you able to tell a difference in power?

 

i didnt notice a difference in power..i did it to simply eliminate the heat soak problem by the #5 cylinder. which is a common cause of headgasket failure

is it worth it or not? i have no idea, i'm no expert on the subject. whether large or smaller exhaust pipe makes a difference or not i reallly do not care. the truck runs like stock if not better so i'm happy

 

guess one can't ask for any more than what's known. so it works for you at least as well as stock so I guess we'll see down the road how it affects the rest of the engine.