I replaced the battery, starter and put new cables on it, yet still sometimes all I get is a click and bump starting it in crowded parking lots sucks lol. I am thinking it may be the ignition switch being as its pretty sloppy, is there anyway to test it?

 

so based on your avatar we are talking about a 1986 SR-5 4runner with a 22RE?

check your connections again..that is free

 

I have several times and its the 22re-t but no matter how tight the connections are I am getting the same thing, the switch is sloppy as hell which is why I am thinking that may be it = /. I even double checked the battery put a multi meter on it and ran the headlights while it was parked and it never dropped below 12. were does the thinner black wire that clips onto the starter go?

 

that thinner black with white stripe wire is the solinoid trigger wire and it runs into you engine harness and and all the way back to your ecu. Quite often that wire gets correded or broken somewhere. Time to break out a multimeter and make sure you're getting 12v at that lead.

 

Would I get 12vs at that lead with the key in the run position or only when its in the start position?

 

Does anyone know how to check the wire going to the starter? Also were would I get a new end piece that would clip into the starter?

 

Anyone have any ideas? this truck is dead all I get is a click when I turn the key. If I can't run it then its gonna get sold, I can't afford to pay to insure a vehicle that only starts using the flinstone method.

 

Have your battery bench tested, just because it is a new battery doesnt mean its a good battery. You can still have 12v and 100 cranking amps and get nothing at the starter.

Also while your battery tested have them test the starter to.

Check your grounds, I like to run a ground from the battery to the motor mount, and then a jumper wire from the motor mount to the block through one of the extra 10x1.25 bolt holes.

To check your ignition, turn the key to the ON position and get a remote start button and jump the starter that way. If you truck starts the ignition switch could be the problem.

If none of that works part it out, you'll get a lot more for the parts off of a turbo truck then the whole thing itself. I call dibs on the tranny and t-case. lol

 

ok... had same problem with my rig, a few times...

U should not have 12v on that small black wire...unless u are turning the key to start, that is actually the ground wire, and completes the circuit, the bigger wire comes direct from the battery, and should always have 12v. My issue, was the little black wire, the connector got all corroded on the inside, and failed to make contact, so I cut it, and put a new connector on... wish I would have done that before buying 3 different starters tho :-)

 

My starters got a life time warranty lol. The black wire runs clear up into the wiring harness though and the connector end is clean.

 

Well, have u tried tapping it while someone turns the key? Usually one of the first things I do in that situation.... If it starts while being tapped, its likely a problem in the starter itself, if not, more work w the multi meter

 

Third starter since this started happening... and yes I had tapped on it and it does no good.

 

Its your ignition switch. The starter solenoid power goes throught the switch, unlike what anybody else is does. Mine is hot wired, positive w/fuze to a momentary switch near the radio back to the solenoid terminal on the starter. rolls over every time! There is a fix for it by wiring a switched hot lead to the starter relay, or replacing the ignition switch. I have two '88's both are jumpered to PB's inside.

Trust me, it drove me to drink fixing this issue!

 

Would I still get a click if the switch was bad? it makes a clicking sound each and everytime I turn the key it just doesn't crank. The battery and cables are all brand new. I know for a fact my switch is tired, I no longer have to release the key lock and can pull it out at in any of the positions lol.

 

That clicking you hear is the starter relay, RH side on the wheel well. That rabbit is going nowhere, since its not sending any voltage to the soleoid. No power is going throught the ignition switch to make it go. Toyota did it strange, on that idea.

Like I said, it drove me to drink that one.

Fastest patch is to disconnect the solenoid wire from the starter, put a 12Ga wire w/ a female end on it (solenoid end), and touch it to the positive of the battery. Make sure its out of gear!!!!!!!!!!! it will spark, and make noise, you might jump too! Put the ignition switch to "on" and make double sure its out of gear. It will start. Then pull the wire off!!!!! Remember to pull the wire off the battery! Or your starter may catch on fire.... Done that too....LOL Not entirely safe, but it works, just be careful!! please.

Back in the day we used a screwdriver. Burn the back of you eyeballs that one!

 

Did you check your fuses?

If you hear a click with key on more than likey the igniton switch is perfectly fine. The click is the main EFI/starting relay.

Sounds like a ground problem.

Check for loose connections.

Check battery to block ground.

Check starter ground.

Faulty Starter?

^Hammer method?

Do you have 12 volts at the starter?

 

Cables are all brand new, starter is fine I doubt I went threw 3 brand new ones and experienced the same problem because of a flawed starter. So is the black cable that clips into the starter using the little plastic clip indeed a ground? and if so can I ground the starter using a replacement cable that is seperate from the harness or will that allow it to engage by itself.

 

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 22ret? That black wire clipped onto the starter using the small plastic clip goes up into the main wiring harness so if I am going to check it I need to know where it ends.

 

well... been a while since I had to mess with mine, but...IIRC, that little black wire does lead to ground thru the main harness, I would check for continuity betweem it and battery(neg side of course ) then check between it and the block,,,, if u have continuity, its prolly not the problem...

Hers a page from the fsm on wiring in starting system its not for the 22rte, but should b the same...

http://ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rn...emci/start.pdf

Heres the whole fsm...

http://ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rn...5/contents.htm

Feel free to look here for more pertinent info...

http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

 

That little black wire is the positive from the ignition switch. Yes is does go to ground through the solenoid.