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2-24-2024: I am starting a new thread to discuss my possible wiring problem, which I mentioned previously: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52492871
In the prior thread, I misdiagnosed the problem That is, the battery was normal.
I examined the ground wire from battery to bulkhead & the wire from Positive terminal to fusible link.
The wire to the fusible link is frayed!! Photo attached.
Can the terminal under the fuse box be repaired? I can't even get it out!!
Today, I replaced the frayed with a new section of 10 gauge wire and new connectors. The hard part was removing the 80Amp fuse tray form the fuse box.
I hope this cures my occasional starting problem.
You should check the other ground wire The one from battery - (negative) down to the AC Compressor mount. Or a spot where the mount should be bolted into the engine block. That's where the starter gets it's ground. Ensure both ends clean and free of dirt, grease, oil, etc.
You might also check the heavy cable from Battery + (positive) down to the starter. It bolts to the side of the starter, under a red rubber cover. Again, clean and free from corrosion, etc.
If the cable going to the fusible link is that bad, either of those other two could be as well. Especially the battery end, but the other ends could well be bad, too. Battery terminals tend to corrode under the lead pieces, and under the insulation of any wires connected to the terminals. Just something to bear in mind.
Saturday i checked the pos and neg wires from battery to attachments at starter and engine block. Pos (booted) was totally clean; Neg was a bit grimey, which I cleaned.
No starting problems in past week. Thanks
Several times since I declared my pickup healed, I have encountered a failure to start. The engine "clicks" several times, then goes silent after several attempts. When I use my external "jump starter," the engine turns over right away, but it doesn't start for 10-15 seconds.
Today, the jump starter didn't work: it was only at 68 percent. After I connected the battery charger and waited several minutes, it turned over right away, but it started roughly after 10-15 seconds.
O'Reilly has tested the battery twice and declared it "good."
What are the "clicks?"
Do any of you have a clue what the problem might be?
Rather than replacing some parts which might be defective, I decided to check the wires that come off the battery. . I checked the connection of the ground to the engine block the connector was dirty, So I cleaned with acetone and sanded it. The posts and terminals were a bit dirty, and the positive terminal didn't fit very well; there were slight gaps around the post. I installed a .002" brass shim and tightened it until I broke the soft, lead terminal.
I will replace tomorrow,
In links to responses above, I there was a pic of four grounds to the 22RE engine. I found two of them. The other two must have been forgotten when a local shop pulled the engine 14 years ago to work on the pistons and rings. I will work on that, too.
I am continuing my exploration of my occasional electric problems: frequent "check engine" light while driving and occasional reluctance/failure to start even tho the battery is full.
I am referencing a great post by member iamsuperbleeder in: ground wires 22re
Another member mentioned that his C/E light problem was cured by improvement of his ground wires.
I looked all over my engine. there seem to be two ground wires missing: #2 and #4 identified by iamsuperbleeder.
Today, I made a snap of #4, a bolt on the intake manifold on the right side. There is no ground wire bolted to the intake manifold, and there is an unattached plug nearby. Is this dangling plug the missing ground? If not, then where might my ground be?
Thanks for your assistance.
Last edited by shooter86314; Dec 26, 2024 at 11:09 AM.
Reason: change phto
The search continues. I changed the engine attachment point of ground #3 in ground wires 22re . The ground was attached to the top of the valve cover, which upon reflection is pretty useless as there is a rubber seal between the block and Valve cover.
DUH !.
Road test very soon..
I visited O'Reilly today to read the codes for my check engine light. Alas, he could not connect to my old engine. Researched code readers and adapters. My engine uses OBD1, which needs a paper clip and manual count of the flashing check engine light,
Code 41: Throttle Position Circuit Fault. More research needed Might not so simple. Maybe just an adjustment.
Last edited by shooter86314; Jan 16, 2025 at 10:07 AM.