4bytruckin

getting nice gratting sound from rear wheel bearing . any pics of how to change

AH64ID

never done it, but IIRC they are pressed on and off, as they are what holds the axle in....

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

there is a C-clip to remove and a retainer that needs to be pressed off, as well as the bearings. C-clip and retainer are non-reusable parts.

AH64ID

where is the c-clip at?

AH64ID

nevermind.. found it

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33rearaxle.pdf

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

see this post: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/snap-rear-axle-sheared-off-45mph-tire-went-ride-113260/

4bytruckin

still not showing how to remove/press in new bearing and what is a sst . i may be missing something here.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

That thread is just for reference. SST=Special Service Tool

Jonnym

no need to press them in and out- just bang the crap out of them on the ground.

-pull the axle out, stand it up with splines facing down.
-grab the backing plate and slam the whole thing down.
- it took me about 30 hits to get the bearing + spacer out. easy

- to put it back together put the backingplate on the ground.
- grab a piee of pipe that is larger than the axle diameter but smaller than the inner race.
- apply heavy obect to pound the bearing onto the axle.

-- the descriptiion isnt very good, but it's pretty obvious once it's apart...

i just changed mine last weeked, the brakes take about 5x longer than the brearings and seals.

good luck

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

yea....or just get it done at a machine shop and save yourself the backyard redneck fix and just do it right the first time.

do NOT slam the splined end in to the ground, for god sakes.

Jonnym

i found that tip here on yotatech, and well it worked great. and there was NO damage to the splined end, it did more damage to the concrete...

redneck is a bit strong, if it had duct tape, bailing wire, or my sister involved, then it would be redneck- but this method is just 'get-er-done :-)

signing out from my metro-backyard

sloth!

i have used the beat it into the ground method many times and it works great. put a board down on the concrete to protect the splines, and wear gloves to protect your hands from the backing plate. Make sure you remove the snap ring before you start. I also use tube to beat the bearings on. Search other bbs where people actually do there own work and you will find that this is the preferred way. Everyone should try it once so you can do it as a trail repair if you need to.

leebee

i can attest to the backyard method, unfortunately for me, even with the clip and retainer off, that bearing was not going anywhere. had to take it to a shop to get pressed off and on.

it can be very hard on the hands, the impact and vibration will leave your hands and arms tingling for a day or two!

lee

SwampThing

Hey now... Some of us rednecks might take offence to that! Not me though, I think that's a great idea, and guess I'll be doin mine tomorrow since I aint got no work

It's gonna be great not smellin 80w90 every time I walk by the right rear tire...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I'm about as redneck as they come...and I prefer tools...not the "slam" method.

SwampThing

Though unlike the rest of us rednecks we aint got no clam press

rebult junk

just finished mine using the slam trick for the out and parts of my ball joint press and 2 in box 4 ft longfor the in
. the job took 3.5 hrs through the day and had a 30 t press at my disposel
now no moore grind from the rear

thanks yota tech for the great info on this repair

SwampThing

Yeah, see I got a 17t press at my shop, but its more for pressing in wheel studs than for pressin in seals. Couldn't figure out a way to jerryrig it to press in the seal, so I'm glad to hear that ye ol bang it with a tube trick'll work.