Title says it all. I just want to know what the right way is and what works for people please. I will be tapping into the positive wire for my radio, what do you suggest?

 

for a radio, best way really is to solder... are you tapping into the pos wire of your radio to run something else, or tapping into power to run your radio?

for low current applications, i used to use "t-taps" which allowed the use of removable connections in cd changer/alarm applications on lease vehicles

 

I am tapping it to use as a switch for a relay, So it should be low voltage and it will be the positive wire. so do you just strip off a bit of the wire and solder the tap to it? I tried this when i first wired up my cb and lights and i tapped into the positive for the aux lights, but when my cb was on my lights couldn't light up. Did i do something wrong?

 

so, are you just trying to get a signal from the accessories circuit? or from the antenna? either way, just solder the wires together, or buy t-taps, and crimp them on

youre gonna have to explain a lot more on your other problem, but from the sounds of it, yes, you did something wrong

 

A CB would be considered a medium powered application IMO (might draw as much as 2-3A)... It's possible by tapping into the wire you gave a lower path of resistance to ground, and the lights were not able to get enough power. With a relay it shouldn't be a problem because it only draws perhaps 100mA in the activation circuit. I'd say go for a soldered connection with electrical tape covering the connection, and a zip-tie around the electrical tape to assure it doesn't come undone. What are you planning on powering with your aux. fuse block anyway?

In my opinion, it's much easier to tap into the cigarette lighter power (and the cig lighter has power whenever the radio does), but you can do whatever you want.

 

First you have to decide what method you are going to use. Wireless can can be handy, but is pretty easy to trace. Hardwired is harder to install, but usually results in higher quality recordings and can be harder to detect. Sometimes this decision is made for you because of the timing and location of the install.

Once you have made that decision, then you need to actually do the install. Ideally you will have time to complete the tap when the target is under surveillance elsewhere.

Next...

Wait... is this not the kind of wire tapping you meant?

 

 

If you're connecting a wire to another wire, strip some of the insulation off of the wire you want to connect to, and solder the new wire to it and use heat shrink to cover it.

Otherwise you can wire directly to the fuse box.

Rob

 

If you're tapping into a another wire there is no need to cut the existing wire, just use wire strippers to cut the insulation and push the insulation in different directions to expose the wire enough to wrap the new wire around it and solder. Then wrap with elecrical tape (you won't be able to use shrink wrap unless you cut the original wire) and then use a wire tie to keep the e-tape from coming off over time.

 

Dang that is scary...I was thinking the same smart arse comment as WATRD.

 

if your just hooking up a relay for an amp or somthing a splitter is fine, as long as you don't exceed the fuse rating. you can hook up almost anything to any power line, but you might have to install an in-line fuse.

 

hey goat what you tap in that picture??

 

URD fuel mods get tapped and sliced into the ECU wiring. For more info on that see page 7, Post #161 here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...t=82145&page=7

 

Thanks all, i usually strip a bit off to expose the wire then wrap and solder. I just thought that there might be a better way of doing this. I got it all finnished yesterday, works great... as usual thank you yotatech for walking me through another mod.

 

I always use the little plastic pinch-on connectors.

 

I've used those as well. They're ok for non-critical applications, as long as you get all the way through the insulation without damaging the wire.

 

This is a perfect demo of what you should do! Perfectly illustrated.

T-taps are junk.

 

t taps are good when its not your car and they owner doesnt want anything soldered in, in results in a professional looking connection that can be easily disconnected, leaving no bare areas...

but yes, most of the time they are junk, as with any crimp on connector

 

It's debatable about how professional they look - personally I think they look bad also. One precaution that should be taken when removing them is to run a piece of tape around where the t-tap was. Wire is exposed when you remove a t-tap (that's how it makes it's connection, cutting htrough the insulation) - barely anything is exposed, but it is a break in the insulation all the same. Better safe than sorry.

My gripe about t-taps stems back to my days installing alarms and stereos. I can't tell you how many alarms I troubleshooted that the owner or another shop used t-taps and they were the culprit of a problem. They are unreliable.

 

hmmm, may be thinking of two different things, the "t-taps" i use, when the wires was tapped together, they formed a "T"... the connector went around the wire, yes the same way as you describe, covered the spot it made, and allowed a wire with a spade connection to join up.... (therefore having two crappy connections in one)

i think you may be thinking of scotchlocks? where the wires lay parallel to each other, those always seemed to fit poorly for me, and yes, when removed, they leave a bare spot


VS


I never had any problems with the first connection, but for my car always stuck to soldered connections, also explaining the benefits of soldering connection when working other peoples' cars (plus solder is cheaper )