As far as them not turning any more, it could just be the bolts are old as crap and stressed, so they're seized. My torsion bolts both broke while adjusting or removing them, and my rig has only been in Oregon, but not near the coast, and high desert of CA. Also, there is a nut on top that some don't seem to have to put a wrench on to stop it from spinning, I did, however.

As far as where to get stock ones, watch Craigslist for somebody who's done an sas and didn't just cut the torsion bars.

 

LC Engineering has brand new ones for $199.00 and they are probually biggest u will find at 26mm..that will support almost anything..seems lot better to get something quality and new than in a junkyard where you have no history on the part and really 199.00 isnt that much money but its just my opinion...

 

This.

:wabbit2:

 

From what I gather from Google and other forums the weight difference between the motors is almost 200lbs. From a suspension point of view that's huge and can cause all sorts of issues, not to mention that adds about 6% to the over all vehicle weight. There for the torsion bars should be 6% stronger to support the extra weight. If you add a bumper, winch, and other upgrades. You'll need even thicker torsion bars, but don't believe me.

Let me break it down for you,
22.8 + 6%= 24.17

22.8 x 0.06= 1.368
22.8 + 1.37(rounded)= 24.17

 

Theory and reality are not the same.

:wabbit2:

 

Perhaps your right but you're making too big a deal out of this. Get stock torsion bars and crank them (6%) if it makes you feel better, to match increased weight. There are hundreds of 3.4 swappers. No issues whatsoever with stock torsion bars.

 

Don't you own a fab shop? Basic engineering tells you if you put something on a spring that's built to support objects that weigh 6% less then what you have placed on it, said spring will compress more and wear out sooner. It may support it for a short period of time but sooner then later it will fail. If you don't know this I fear for the produces you make in house.

Case in point the rear springs on a 85-?? 4runner. The same springs as the pick-up, but the bushing and springs fail sooner. Why's that? By the way the fiberglass top weighs roughly 150lbs. I guess 200lbs makes a difference over time.

 

I made my mind up about a week ago. I just don't like Wabbit or what he stands for.

 

You already stated you were too cheap to buy thicker torsion bars you already "know" you need. You were wanting a junkyard solution. Wabbit is a fine fabricator and well respected member of YT. You should pipe down now. No more replies from me on the subject.

 

General idea is correct, but torsion bar stiffness goes up by the 4th power of the diameter:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/
For example going from a 22mm to a 24mm bar is a 42% increase in stiffness.

 

Are you going to wipe his butt for him too? And I thought he was against gay marriage

 

Finally someone with information that can really help. I'll go read that and get a better idea of what I wanna do.

 

Liking me is irrelevant to me. I graduated high school 25+ years ago and didn't give a ˟˟˟˟ then either.

How many 3.4 swaps have you done? The fact of the matter of this thread is like most others you've started, you ask questions but then don't want to hear the answers.

There is no need for any greater suspension beef up on a 3.4 swap, 2WD or 4WD. Period.

:wabbit2:

 

Good 'ol internet drama... Let's keep it on Pirate

 

About 4 days ago I asked a suspension tech friend of mine and he told me to just buy some junk yard newer v6 or 4banger ones, about 18 dollars each, because by the time they start to sag again I'll be ready for a suspension upgrade anyways.

 

Been welding 25+ years.
BSME 94 University of Alabama
Practicing engineer since 92
Owned WabFab since 05

Basic engineering tells me it's a torsion bar, not a spring. I'd suggest you "How things work" and learn the basic principles of geometry, statics and dymamics and the differences in suspension components.

:wabbit2:

 

Let's just agree to disagree. We eye to eye on very few things.

 

It has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreeing, liking or not liking. It has to do with you simply being wrong.

:wabbit2:

 

All OEM torsion bar parts numbers and acronyms

48162-35040
Spring, Torsion Bar, LH
RN5#, 70.. HLF.. (CBR, EFI)

48162-35070
Spring, Torsion Bar, LH
LN5#, RN55.. DSL, TBO -- -- Discontinued

48162-35090
Spring, Torsion Bar, LH
RN55.. 10T, HVY; LN56, RN75.. EFI, TD

48162-35110
Spring, Torsion Bar, LH
RN6#

48162-35130
Spring, Torsion Bar, LH
VZN6#



48161-35040
Spring, Torsion Bar, RH
RN5#, 70.. HLF.. (CBR, EFI)

48161-35070
Spring, Torsion Bar, RH
LN5#, RN55.. DSL, TBO -- -- Discontinued

48161-35090
Spring, Torsion Bar, RH
RN55.. 10T, HVY; LN56, RN75.. EFI, TD

48161-35110
Spring, Torsion Bar, RH
RN6#

48161-35130
Spring, Torsion Bar, RH
LN66, VZN6#