Hello. This is my very first post here. 🙋🏼‍♂️I picked up an ‘86 Pickup SR5 22RE a couple years ago and have been returning it to its original stock glory. It’s been burning (and leaking) oil ever since I’ve had it but it’s still been reliable. It only has 185k miles on it but a rebuild has been in my plans for a little while. However, I blew the head gasket this week so I’ve decided to accelerate the timeline on that. My question: what else should I replace while the motor’s out?

Here’s what I’ve planned so far:
- Long block from YotaShop. The one they advertise as using all OEM parts, not the one with KB pistons, etc. Honestly I was hoping for LCE or 22RE Performance but they’re not currently taking orders. YotaShop seems to have good reviews as well.
- Clean the intake manifold. Probably get it and the valve cover powder coated because presentation matters!
- Rebuild the injectors
- Probably have a new clutch installed. Current one only has 40k miles on it but since they’re already in there I think it’s probably worth it
- New oil pan
- Fuel filter
- Oil pressure sending unit
- O2 sensor

The last two are because I’m assuming coolant in the oil/exhaust probably didn’t do them any favors? Maybe I’m too paranoid.

Anything else I should look at due to the blown HG, mileage or fact that the engine is removed? I’ve never gone thus route before so I want to be thorough and not spend time and money going back in the near future. Thanks in advance. I’ve already learned a lot from this site.

Zac

 

Welcome to YotaTech!

If you have the engine out, it's probably a good time to pressure wash the engine bay. Decades of leaks and road grime build up and you'll never have that sort of access unless you pull the engine again. Check both the intake and exhaust manifolds for flatness where they mount to the head. It's common for them to be warped. If they aren't super warped, you can flatten them on a 6x48 bench belt sander. If it's really bad, an automotive machine shop should have a super duper one they can run them on. I paid $20 on two separate occasions to have exhaust manifolds flattened. I only had to flatten one intake manifold and I was able to do that on my little bench belt sander.

I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure sensor. The O2 sensor is probably a good idea. Make sure to buy a genuine Denso. RockAuto has them at a very reasonable price.

 

the Aisin clutch kit is very reasonable.
Since you have the engine on a stand, I'd replace any of those coolant hoses under the intake if they look at all questionable. Same with BOTH lower radiator hoses.
You can put the intake manifold on the long block sitting on the stand, but leave the surge tank off so you can run the injector wiring loom. You'll never have an easier time installing the fuel filter. Remember, the inlet is towards the front, the outlet at the back. So if the fuel filter has a directional arrow printed on it the arrow should point to the firewall.

This would be a good time to clean the EGR valve. I'm sure its gunked up. Brake cleaner spray and pipe cleaners work well. I'd open up the IAC and clean it, too.

I'm not terribly fond of painted manifolds or valve cover. But to each their own. I used WD40 and a wire wheel on a drill and cleaned both. Did that to the transmission and transfer case, too, when i rebuilt them both.

 

Now is a better time than ever to replace everything. You know how nice it is putting an oil pan gasket on with the engine upside down?

 

While it's out, it might be a good time to check/replace the timing chain, and it's guide/tensioners. You'll never have an easier time of it.
That includes checking the front crank shaft oil seal, in the oil pump, for leakage, and the water pump for seepage out of the weep hole, just under the pully's shaft. If there's water coming out the weep hole, replace the water pump. It'll only get worse. Only replace the oil pump if it looks damaged inside. Very easy to see when it's off. I would definitely replace all the gaskets involved.

You might check the head for flatness while it's off. set the valve lash too. Check the distributor, and it's coil. Maybe replace the valve cover gasket. Definitely the PCV valve, it's grommet in the valve cover, and it's hoses. Cheap, and easy to do. Especially the grommet. They get brittle and crack easily. Use OEM replacements. Well worth the money for the quality.

You're in for a great learning experience.
Pat☺

 

Thanks to all who’ve chimed in. Gonna add coolant hoses and cleaning EGR valve to the list. Also going to see what the motor mounts look like but I think I’ll add those too.

 

Some of those little coolant hoses are pricey, so being thoughtful about what you replace is understandable. And I don’t find bulk hose works well at all. Sure is fun putting all that stuff on when it’s on the stand! Especially all that stuff under the intake. Enjoy!

 

I’m having a shop pull my old engine and install the new long block so I’m going to miss out on a lot of the work. But since the LB is 3 weeks out I’m going to tear apart as much as I can, clean/rebuild what needs it and figure out what new parts I need to buy. I wish I had the time and know-how to install it myself. I know I’d learn a lot. I’m tempted to take my old block, tear it apart and rebuild it as opposed to getting my core back.

 

New contacts in the starter solenoid and new ajternator brushes.

 

Good recommendations. I had to replace my alternator with a cheap Autozone one last year but I think I still have the original I can rebuild.

 

When I did top end rebuild at 198,000 miles, the EGR was at least halfway clogged. Took lots of carb cleaner to get it cleaned. I installed my fuel filter backwards, and then got to looking at it real good, and said oh dang. Glad I realized the mistake while the intake was still off.

In addition to what Jimkola mentioned, I would change the distributor o-ring and the distributor cap o-ring. The cap o-ring is probably shot, and I think it's a dealer only part.