Josh_Br

Thanks,
Josh

rworegon

The rust or the item with the electrical wire?

Josh_Br

Well, the whole circular thing on the left. Does the entire circle come off, or just the wire/plug? I've got a new gas tank on the way, so I was working on beginning to take things apart tonight. Thanks

ThatGuy1295

Believe thats your fuel level gauge. A screw driver or drill usually, but in your case a chisel and a grinder.

ThatGuy1295

yes it should unplug, the wire I mean.

Josh_Br

Ok, thanks

Josh_Br

Ok, so the gas tank is out of the truck, and I drained all nine gallons of gas from it. I left the drain plug out and the filler neck is removed, so it can air out a little. I'd like to use an angle grinder on some of the rusted screws that hold on the sending unit and the fuel pump. However, I don't want to go up in a ball of flames. If I spray the outside and inside of the tank with the hose, will that be good enough to ensure safety?

Also, if I do spray the inside of the tank, could that damage the sending unit or pump?

Thanks,
Josh

Sturmcrow

I am not a certified welder by any means, but I believe that the advice for sparks and gas tanks is to fill it completely with water. You don't want any air space inside there (air + gas + spark = bad news).

rworegon

Josh,
Take the tank to a pro for whatever you need done do it. They will know what to do to avoid the big boom.

Josh_Br

You know....I was reading a bit online about this sort of thing, and it's a little scary, at least for the backyard mechanic. I *might* be able to get the fuel pump out without grinding. I don't think there is any hope for the sending unit, but I found a new one at Advance Auto for about $25 or $30. Might go that route...

Josh_Br

Got the fuel pump out.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

At least have the tank full of water. I have worked on tanks but only in cold weather. I dont work on them in warm weather and if there are any fumes, that is when it is dangerous. I have seen the return lines clogged. Here is some info that might help you.




Copied....

I got a tank out of my parts truck and it was loaded with rust and so was the pump. I surprised the truck even ran. Filter was all plugged up. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the tank out. First I drained it and tapped the outside with a rubber hammer to break the thick rust loose. Put a little water in to avoid sparks and put some chain and rocked it back and forth to get more loose and then I let it soak with some vinegar in it. I found this on the web. It actually came pretty clean. Have heard of using The Works toilet bowl cleaner from K Mart.

http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removi...rom_a_gas_tank Several products you can use.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4540637_remo...-gas-tank.html

http://www.vjmog.com/ftopict-3687.html

I have a friend that works in a parts store and he suggested Red Kote to coat the tank. I have coated it and am waiting for my new fuel pump to come in. I ready to get the tank in and see if this thing fires up.

I dont mess with tanks in the summer. The fumes are what are dangerous.

I bought the fuel pump off of ebay from "carpartswholesale" for $27.85 plus cheap shipping. Parts store wanted $150


This "J" line likes to get clogged. Check all of them, but most likely this one will be clogged.


New $25 dollar fuel pump. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pum...item35b6422050

combatcarl

I would let a shop do it, but I've seen it done with a hose off the exhaust, run into the tank, and engine running. Let it idle about 5 minutes, and went to town on it. Looked sketch, though.

'89 22RE 4x4 longbed DLX
Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have heard that done. It rids the tank of oxygen. If it is below freezing, I am not afraid to work on a tank. Not showing your state location, so figured I would err on the safe side, not knowing your tempertures. Just watch for fumes.

combatcarl

Yeah, it made sense, just looked weird. Old tweakers, they're good for some tricks.

'89 22RE 4x4 longbed DLX
Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech

Sturmcrow

Terrys87, I would be careful with welding on a tank, no matter the temperature, and I would be particularly careful with dispensing that advice online. While I could probably run the numbers and compare the Henry's constant of gasoline (though it is a mixture of many chemicals) with the LEL, I think that I will just state that I would not weld on a gas tank unless it were completely full or water or had in some other way had either all of the gas or all of the oxygen removed.

I am a born and bred Show Me State-er, and have the uncle who cannot smell anymore after having a gas tank blow up in his face to prove it.

I actually really like the idea of running exhaust into the tank. Talk about an easy way to remove all oxygen, especially if the vehicle has a cat. converter.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Strumcrow..I would never weld on a tank. An empty 20 year old tank is still dangerous. The metal is porous and still holds residue. I meant just working on one in general. I have cleaned tanks, but I only work on them in the winter, Beyond cleaning them and coating it and I just replace it.

I knew some run an exhuast into a tank for that reason to rid of oxygen, I still wouldnt weld on it. With or without a converter to me it just isnt worth it.

Josh_Br

I'm in PA. It is about 28 degrees this morning.

Thanks guys for your input and ideas. Last night, I did order a new gauge sending unit from Advance Auto. It was $26 plus tax. I figure that is cheaper than having a shop remove the old rusty sending unit from the tank, and plus it will be new. That is supposed to be in Tuesday, then I can button things up and get back on the road

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Josh Br.. When you get your sending unit, can you post a pic of it. I have one I need to replace as well. Thanks in advance.

Sturmcrow

Glad to hear it. I misunderstood and thought you were advocating hot work on a tank if it were cold outside. Sorry for the confusion.