Lumpy

Wow bringing her back to life I see!!! Well not too bad only about a year old.

Anyway, give her a good tune up. I'm getting about 10-12 with the 4Runner. 3.0 auto and 33x12.5's=not good fuel mileage. Hopefully she'll do better when I get the fuel leak fixed.

bob200587

The LCE header is by far the best performance mod I've ever done for my 22RE. I can say with complete confidence that it is worth every penny.

Anyone with a 22RE powered vehicle should invest in one. Quit being a cheapskate!

Lumpy

My 22re has a 268 cam and 2.25 exhaust and no cat. I think that will do a bit better than just the header. I'm not sure though, from what I have read the stock manifolds are not all that bad. Like I said I'm not 100% on that.

zeus45c

Haha...I didn't realize how old the thread was. One of the dangerous by products of trying to do things right and using the search tool.

Lumpy

Welcome to YotaTech!!!! Gotta tease you a bit!

Not a whole lot you can do to the 3.0, I have the same setup on a 95, without the lift. You can do the ISR mod and get a larger exhaust. I believe that is all that you can really do that is cost efficient.

Brokedown

I found that removing the stock fan and installing an electric fan and controller helped me out quite a bit.

yodta

I have to say that tune up items are where I've found the best results, as well. I'm Weber carbed so I'm even more susceptible to tuning issues. I find that with attention to tuning, the vehicle performs better, and I'm less inclined to dog it around.

• Timing.
• Fuel Mixture. For me, that's jetting and carb tuning, and it makes a HUGE difference once you get it pretty close to dialed. I've been in this perpetual state of "finished tuning the Weber" for about six years. for you EFI guys, take care of your sensors -- O2, temp, and otherwise. had a temp sensor screw me on my second vehicle. so obvious I overlooked it.
• Plugs. I swear my truck runs better with Bosch Platinum (used to use NGK)
• Wires. Just bought the NGK ones off some Amazon store $28, but I hear great things about the Toyota OEM wires.
• Fuel Filter. Replace them on interval.
• Oil & Fluids. I hear people are seeing mild improvements in fuel economy with synthetic. I just switched to synthetic with a half quart of Lucas on my last change, but I've been dogging it around too much lately to say, but it does run noticeably smoother.

I'm curious about this "keeping-it-under-3k business". might try this; it certainly makes sense, but I don't know if I could be a consistent right-laner and still be pissing people off. I do enjoy the 2800-3000+rpm response, I must say

I manage to pull about 17mpg consistently in mixed driving conditions with 31" tires. I drive it like a car sometimes - well, as best I can - and 70-75mph average on the highway stuff.

On all highway, steady cruise conditions, I get 23mpg.

Getting ready to try a Weber 38 DGES, so I'm interested to see how my economy changes over the 32/36 DGEV I'm using now.

Some of the other things I've been suckered into:

• MSD Blaster SS coil; no difference in power or economy
• Thicker plug wires; no difference in power or economy
• Special Caps & Rotors; no difference in power or economy

PFFF! that's still too far away for optimal effect!
you gotta suck up the distance man!
he shouldn't be able to see you at all. it's when they see you that they brake!

I think the Myth Buster guys actually did a segment on this. It does actually work, but there was something about the distance, which wasn't necessarily optimal closest to the semi. so I just made that part up. but not the story.

right. carry on then.

Crawlerado

Common Sense Stuff: Keep the truck junk free (minus chains and straps of course), tires at 40psi+, good gas, tune ups every 30k, oil changes every 3k, try and pay attention to my lead foot!

Intake/Exhaust: Custom air box with K&N style filter, tubular header (feeBay), 2.5" mandrel back to a glass pack and a muffler with a 90 turn down that all ends before the bed and only has one 15 degree bend in it!

I've seen as much as 22 when I was commuting to Greeley 90 miles a day, it's normally down to 16-18, lately it's been 12-14 so it's getting plugs, cap and rotor tonight and I'm going to double check the timing. I'll do the valve adjustments on Monday.

4RunningColorado

I get 22+highway.
like 4 wheelin...

K&N 31's

Full AIR

BlackSR5

K&N FIPK, and a catback with headers...I know they're a crappy company to deal with, but the NWOR headers are a perfect made OEM fit header system( trust me I've gone the Thorley and Downey header route, both require fabrication/cutting (and lots of cursing) to install. The NWOR set just slides right in and everything lines up perfectly no cutting, bending, cursing( well maybe just a little) and they sound F*&^ing AWESOME! best mod for the 3vz. I got tons of torque from them...made the difference between downshifting to go up hills at 65MPH and staying in 5th...well worth the money if you can afford it.

pb4ugotobed

I gained about 2mpg by installing manual hubs. And noticed a good bit less of the "dragging" feeling while driving. You gotta remember, when you're driving, even if you aren't in 4wd, that front diff is turning. The t-case isn't, but those axles and that diff are. With manual hubs, when they're set to free, you're basically driving a 2wd truck.

TNRabbit

If you haven't changed the O2 sensor, DO IT. Big jump in mpg if you're using an old, crapped-out O2 sensor... (Denso or NTK only)

NYChopshop

I have the dog of an engine, the 3vze. Yes, the infamous 3.slow. I don't care what you tell me, I love the thing!

I got about 1-2 mpg out of my S&B intake. I'm a big fan of it, anyhow. Info is in my signature. It's not cheap, but it fixes a couple stupid restrictions with the intake system to make the intake go as well as the restrictive air flow sensor allows. I have no doubt that it will eventually pay for itself, and filters finer particles out of the intake air than any comparable K&N filter while giving noticeable power gains (and grin-factor howl noise!) in the 2500-4500 RPM range.

The best fuel economy boost I got, from 14 to 17 mpg in city driving from repair work. I had a busted EGR hose, shot PCV valve and grommet pushing oil into my intake while leaking combustion material into my engine bay and stinking, old plug wires and crappo champion spark plugs... ALL REPLACED WITH OEM PARTS! stock wires, stock gapped non-platinum DENSO plugs (platinums run hot, anything to make a 3vze run hotter is a bad idea).

The best thing you can do for your engine is some careful inspection and part replacement of a maintenance nature. It's already been said that if you really need significantly more mpg and power and whatnot, its engine swap time.

TNRabbit

"stock gapped non-platinum DENSO plugs (platinums run hot, anything to make a 3vze run hotter is a bad idea)"

For the record, all plugs are sold in a heat range, and you should buy the heat range specified for athat engine. Platinum/copper/iridium don't run any "hotter" than each other, but there are different constructions for the different heat ranges so they will operate in that specific temperature....

rdharper

Interesting TN... forced me to read up as to the WHY of hot and cold plugs.

Based on that, it seems to me that cold plugs are the better choice for recent designs (last 15 years), as pre-ignition is a more likely consideration, and plug-fouling around town and at idle... is not.

90-3vzeslug

just bumped my tire pressures up to ~40 psi. also swapped stock muffler to cherry bomb turbo (cheap and easy swap, flowmaster magnaflow etc prob sound better, but this was just laying around and had correct I/O size.)

Also did full tune up, including the darn pcv valve with all oem parts. (except for ngk v-powers) Also did the isr mod. and removed roof rack as i don't ever use it.

No mpg info yet, as I was bored waiting for football to start today. truck seems much much happier and requires much less throttle than before so I'm sure there will be a decent gain. anythings better than my previous 14 mpg highway lol

golddog111

i put in the LCEngineering street performance kit on my 87 yota and it was like another machine, cost just under 2 grand though

golddog111

the msd ss coil is supposed to be used with the msd 6 offroad spark box, im planning on installing after i take out my charcoal canasters and vacuum lines

edwinb4x4

So far the cheapest mod you can do to a 3VZ (with added pwr and a increased gas mpg) are:

1) ISR
2) VAFM swap - (mind you I'm using the Toyota filter)

link: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-think-183463/

And don't forget the most important of all:
Maintenance (make sure all wires have good solid contact points - specially the GND connections - use original plugs anf air filter)



3) Exhaust swap - optional (if you have the time and can afford it - probably my next mod)

So far I'm very satisfied with the two that I've done and my 89 toy is still going stong at 200K now.
-- in par with 96 taco if I may say so.

hth