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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

what is the green sensor next to the oil filter?

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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 10:11 AM
  #61  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
not a good idea to start with no coolant, I'll tell you why, the coolant temp sensor has something to do with the timing as well. I know this because when we did 92Toy's head gasket and started it up for the first time, it ran really weird until the air bubble made it's way out of the coolant system and filled up the void by the coolant sensors. Keep this in mind.
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #62  
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From: hubert nc
sounds like the efi ground strap is not hooked up... there is a ground that bolt on your intake manfold. were it splits from the upper too the lower part..

and let me tell ya, when i replaced my leaky injector o-rings on my truck i forgot to hook up that ground strap.. and it would run for about a half a second and would only stay running if i kept my foot into the throttle.. and after that it would die out..

after being puzzled for 2 hrs of this.. i started looking at pictures and realized i had for got the ground for the efi system.. and once i bolt it down the engine ran just the way it should..
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #63  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
You've been running the engine without coolant???!!!! For how long throughout this whole process have you been doing that?
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #64  
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From: hubert nc
are you serious.... ouch....
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #65  
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From: Cheney Wa.
since you don't have the rad hooked up do you have the intake tube and maf sensor hooked up. (tube to air box). these engines have to have coolant in them to run. It needs to be put together 100% or they won't run right.
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #66  
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From: hubert nc
yes sir...
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 05:26 AM
  #67  
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damn i get some feed back now lol... everything is hooked up i just didnt fill the radiator ... it had coolant in it when i installed the new head gasket, but when i tore the timing cover ect back off to take the pics i posted i just put it all back together and didnt add coolant incase i had to take it back apart... so it wont run with out coolant.. well i guess ill clean the plugs again and fill her up with coolant and see if anything changes.. and all the grounds are hooked up i know the ground your talking about had to lay on top of my tire to tighten it up...

well the engine never has ran. it has started to start but never really runs.

Last edited by xalier; Aug 16, 2010 at 05:30 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:39 AM
  #68  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I understand why you'd decided to test things before refilling with coolant. It is a royal pain having to drain, refill, drain, refill, and so on. But, as the xxxtreme dude mentioned, the coolant sensor has to have coolant temperature to sense. Crude way to put it, I know. But, still.......a very large part of the ECU's ability to manage an EFI system is based on coolant temperature; colder temps = more fuel + advanced timing while warmer temps = less fuel + less advance. This is crucial not only to run the vehicle, but to start it. If the ECU can't know the true condition/temperature of the engine by means of coolant temp, it will not start or run correctly. In short, it's not a very good way at all to try and troubleshoot without coolant. Plus, you run the risk of damaging the water pump should it get too hot.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #69  
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From: Cheney Wa.
also if there was coolant in the block when you pulled the timing cover you now have coolant in the oil pan unless you pulled it too.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #70  
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From: Ringgold, GA
Originally Posted by BrianJE
also if there was coolant in the block when you pulled the timing cover you now have coolant in the oil pan unless you pulled it too.
i drained the block and radiator when i pulled it. i also drained the oil.. i filled it up with coolant and tried starting its still doing the same thing run about 5 seconds and the motor will rock and die...
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 08:34 AM
  #71  
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From: Ringgold, GA
anyone interested in stopping by and helping me
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #72  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
I'm free this weekend, but ya got to get me a plane ticket lol. oh wait nevermind, got to do a mud bog this weekend, make it next weekend.
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 06:12 AM
  #73  
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From: Ringgold, GA
so so sad.. another yoda going to scrap yard
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #74  
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From: hubert nc
Originally Posted by xalier
so so sad.. another yoda going to scrap yard

fix the dam thing..
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 06:15 AM
  #75  
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From: Ringgold, GA
lol hell ive tried everything i can think of
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 06:48 AM
  #76  
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From: hubert nc
well buy a new one and use the old one and make a table out of it...
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:17 AM
  #77  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by xalier
lol hell ive tried everything i can think of
There's only so many things it can be, so you're obviously overlooking something.
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 08:24 AM
  #78  
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From: hubert nc
i agree..
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 10:46 AM
  #79  
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well ive posted everything... it ras still running before i tore it down even with the blown hg.. i posted pix of everything.. it all seems to check out...
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 12:15 PM
  #80  
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From: Cheney Wa.
ok try this. make sure when the timing marks are where they are suppose to be that #1 cylinder is at TDC. now what could be going on is the harmonic damper has spun throwing the timing mark off. The key on the crank should be pointing up when the dampener mark is at 0deg. If this has happened it could be way off. Just throwing Ideas your hope I can help even a little.
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