I am in the process of trying to repair an engine that won't run due to low or non-existant fuel pressure I posted about this earlier.

I have been jumpering my B+ - Fp connectors with a wire but would like to get a better connection. Does anyone know what the foot of this contraption looks like?

On another note i found out the hardway that after market fuel filters won't fit on the 3.0 VZ-E 94 4Runner I have. I ment to post about this before when I was changing it but forgot. I thought I would save some money and use an after market part but after trying filters from NAPA, AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts I finally had to get one from my dealer. All the others were not the correct length.

Thanks,

for your help

Ike

 

If you dont have nay fuel pressure you must be leaking somewhere. Can you hear the fuel pump running at any point. key on, trying to start. check and make sure that its plugged in at the tank as well as the open circuit relay should be the blue wire.

good luck

 

google...

http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=718&g=13

I just made one with wire and cut down spade connectors

 

SST 09843–18020:

 

what ever works- aye-

 

I hooked up a pressure gauge and I am getting about 25 lbs. max. This builds up very slowly and decreases to about 10 lbs. when I rev up the engine. The engine will die at about 2500 rpm. I don't get any voltage across the +B Fp terminals. Jumpering them doesn't seem to help. I don't believe that the jumper is working. Anyone have any idea what is going on or what it will take to change out the diagnostic check connector as there may be a problem there if I'm not getting any voltage.

I tried a wire with spadeconnectors and I beleive that I may have pushed the Fp connection down into the body of the diagnostic coonector. Anyway I don;t seem to be getting any connection. I'll try a few more things this mornig and see if I can find a way to jumper it. That will supposedly by pass all the fuel pump sensors and give me full pressure at the fuel lines.

Any tips on how I would go about checking the voltage at the fuel pump connection with the engine running? I don't have any voltage there when I jumper the +B - Fp teminals? Will try a few more things tomorrow.

Thanks

Ike

 

The connector is really designed to take a "round" probe - like tips on a Fluke DVM. It will take a flat spade - but a really "narrow" one. I cut one down to use as a jumper...

 

The connector itself is nothing special, just a box to hold all the wires in one place. If the B+ connector doesn't have 12v, you can get 12v from the positive battery terminal near by.

How do you know you don't have 12v there? Do you have a volt meter or a check light? If not... get one and figure out where you have and don't have 12v.

There is a cover that snaps open under the diagnosis port. If you did accidentally push one of the pins into the box, you can push it back up after opening the cover.

Even though it may have seemed like a joke, the paper clip really works well. It will be long enough to reach a pin that may have been forced into the box as well.

How do you know you aren't getting a connection? Can you hear the fuel pump come on when B+ and Fp are jumped? If so, at least your pump is working and the diagnosis box is fine. If not... figure out if you have 12v and go from there.

 

I managed to get the bottom of the diagnostic port and pushed the connector back where it should be. If any of you are interested I will continue this in the "94 4runner starting and running problems" thread.

Thanks,

Ike

 

Sounds like a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. You should have around 35-40 PSI at idle alone.

 

84sr5yoty: I have a new fuel pump and fuel filter along with new plugs and wires and a god only knows what else. I ahe had a vehilcle that won't run now for nearly 2 years. It was interemittent at first and would idle perfectly but not rev up. I have more info in my earlier post referenced above.

I have fixed the diagnostic connector and now get 40 lbs with the wires jumpered. The fuel presure builds up slowly and drops immediately to 10lbs when the engine turns over before it even appears to fire. The engine will run for a minute or less and then die. I haven't tackled the fuel pressure regulator but I may have to check that out as well. I had assumed that the engine would have sufficient pressure if I jumpered that connector but it must be losing voltage to the pump or losing pressure some how. If the pressure regulator is opening up when th e engine turns over I suppose this could cause that to happen.

Thants my job for today. If I don't get any good ideas I may have to pull the fuel pump and try another one.

Ike