what does "dana" mean and does it apply to 2nd gens?
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what does "dana" mean and does it apply to 2nd gens?
so i've been looking around at lockers at 4wheelparts.com and i've had a few questions. i'm probably asking a noob question but here it goes:
what exactly does "dana" mean when it comes to differentials? i know it has something to do with the weight and # bolts but anyone have a better explanation?
2nd- do 2nd gens have "dana's" (44 maybe?) or does this term only apply to US trucks?
3rd - preference: electronic or air locker & what do you have/recommend?
Thanks
what exactly does "dana" mean when it comes to differentials? i know it has something to do with the weight and # bolts but anyone have a better explanation?
2nd- do 2nd gens have "dana's" (44 maybe?) or does this term only apply to US trucks?
3rd - preference: electronic or air locker & what do you have/recommend?
Thanks
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Dana is a manufacturer.
No, 2nd gens don't have Dana's, unless installed by someone else.
Choice is yours when it comes to lockers, air or electric, both selectable.
Selectable meaning, you decide when you want it engaged/disengaged.
No, 2nd gens don't have Dana's, unless installed by someone else.
Choice is yours when it comes to lockers, air or electric, both selectable.
Selectable meaning, you decide when you want it engaged/disengaged.
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no no no... you're yota does not have any dana model's. You have a Toyota 8" w/ 6cyl carrier. Run a search for selectable lockers, but many people run trutracs, and many people want to run ARB's but they are NOT cheap.
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I've never heard of problems with the locker itself, but with the rest of the system to make it work.
#9
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... and all of those problems are installation/care related. I have had trouble with mine, too, but they weren't ARB's fault! Even then, I've never heard anyone who actually owns them complain about it or be so unsatisfied that they get rid of them (which happens with every other kind of locker)
#10
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Here's the Dana site:
http://www.dana.com/
They are making 2007 Tundra frames and some other things:
http://dana.mediaroom.com/index.php/press_releases/2102
If you ask me the Toyota truck frames have gone way downhill in quality since Dana started making them.
http://www.dana.com/
They are making 2007 Tundra frames and some other things:
http://dana.mediaroom.com/index.php/press_releases/2102
If you ask me the Toyota truck frames have gone way downhill in quality since Dana started making them.
Last edited by mt_goat; 04-10-2007 at 06:17 AM.
#11
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People are so biased when it comes to expensive aftermarket stuff.
From what I've gathered ARB is good stuff but so is all the other lockers you can pick from. I've never heard of a locker failing, of any manufacture other than ARB. But... ARB uses a rather complicated (in comparison) system to function. More pieces to the puzzle the more chance of things not operating right.
Really now, offer up suggestions but don't limit selection here.
ARB is great if you REALLY want a selectable on/off locker system. Catch 22 is its expensive, same with the e-locker.
You want something mild? Detroit Truetrac is a good choice. It's invisible on-road but very evident offroad. A good step up above an open dif.
Want something a bit more? Detroit EZ locker is what they refer to as a lunchbox locker. It's the least expensive as it replaces the 3 spider gears in your open dif re-using the stock differential case.
Full Detroit locker is a whole new differential. (Maybe some would say its stronger) .. I would agree seeing as my stock dif case wore out. (I have the Detroit Truetrac which is a whole differential as well)
Spools are the alternative to backwoods dif-welding. They fully lock up the differential and cannot or atleast (ha) should not be driven on pavement. (Least expensive locker other than just welding the crap up there is)
There are other manufactures of lockers, I just used Detroit because it's a very popular brand. Aussie locker is a lunchbox locker, cheaper $$$ than Detroit but I've not heard anything about actually being BUILT cheaper. It utilizes the stock differential case as well.
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thanks for the info. def helps with what i'm looking for. maybe i will go with a trutrac but we'll see. having a selectable locker sounds very appealing. does a detroit trutrac add a bunch of extra wear on the tires though? i spend most my time on the road as my runner is my dd.
Last edited by Tdubbs05; 04-10-2007 at 09:56 AM.
#13
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Hey, I'm making no bones that ARB's are expensive - they are!
I have never read of anywhere that someone was so upset about their ARB that they even THOUGHT of getting rid of it. IMHO, all these doomsday tales of air leaks, etc are from people who don't own them. Even if it DOES fail, it fails safe (unlocked) so you can drive home and to work the next day.
But here's the facts of the matter:
The ONLY lockers that don't sacrifice performance and drivability on-road or off-road are the selectables. I wish there were a simpler/cheaper solution, but there's not for our trucks.
If you want to know what lockers have the best on-road AND off-road performance, your answer is ARB or elocker. PERIOD. The compromise is that they are expensive.
Now, if you can't afford that, or don't want to, yes, there are other options, but understand all these options come with performance compromises:
Detroit Locker - Sacrifices on road drivability for great offroad performance. Will slide easily on slick off-camber surfaces. NOTE: when Detroit lockers fail they often take out other parts - axle shafts, etc.
TruTrac - Sacrifices off road performance (worthless if a tire is in the air) for great drivability
Lunchbox - Dramatically sacrifices on-road drivability for great offroad performance and low cost. Will slide easily on slick off-camber surfaces.
Welded - Dramatically sacrifices on-road drivability and tire wear for great offroad performance and low cost (at least until you factor in tires). Will slide easily on slick off-camber surfaces.
Also, if you're locking the front, you need to add $200 to the price of the Detroit, lunchbox, or weld job to have a twinstick so you can steer on high traction surfaces.
I have never read of anywhere that someone was so upset about their ARB that they even THOUGHT of getting rid of it. IMHO, all these doomsday tales of air leaks, etc are from people who don't own them. Even if it DOES fail, it fails safe (unlocked) so you can drive home and to work the next day.
But here's the facts of the matter:
The ONLY lockers that don't sacrifice performance and drivability on-road or off-road are the selectables. I wish there were a simpler/cheaper solution, but there's not for our trucks.
If you want to know what lockers have the best on-road AND off-road performance, your answer is ARB or elocker. PERIOD. The compromise is that they are expensive.
Now, if you can't afford that, or don't want to, yes, there are other options, but understand all these options come with performance compromises:
Detroit Locker - Sacrifices on road drivability for great offroad performance. Will slide easily on slick off-camber surfaces. NOTE: when Detroit lockers fail they often take out other parts - axle shafts, etc.
TruTrac - Sacrifices off road performance (worthless if a tire is in the air) for great drivability
Lunchbox - Dramatically sacrifices on-road drivability for great offroad performance and low cost. Will slide easily on slick off-camber surfaces.
Welded - Dramatically sacrifices on-road drivability and tire wear for great offroad performance and low cost (at least until you factor in tires). Will slide easily on slick off-camber surfaces.
Also, if you're locking the front, you need to add $200 to the price of the Detroit, lunchbox, or weld job to have a twinstick so you can steer on high traction surfaces.
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The Truetrac should reduce wear on the tires. In most everyday situations it will act like an open diff. I don't know about you, but I have a tendency to "spin up" a rear tire while trying to get out of a tight corner quickly - especially when there is gravel, water, etc. on the ground. The Truetrac will greatly alleviate that situation. Realize that an LSD is definitely not the end-all be-all in extreme off-road situations, but they are definitely a lot more useful off-road than a lot of people give them credit for and absolutely "da bomb" in the snow, rain, dirt roads, etc. In my opinion the loss of usefulness when lifting a wheel is more than offset by the myriad of benefits provided by the TT in day-to-day driving. At least for the way I drive and the way I wheel.....
Last edited by GV27; 04-10-2007 at 10:10 AM.
#15
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I could never use the parking brake trick with the TrueTrac in 4wd until I got a new clutch. However if you're clutch can handle it you can apply the e-brake and force the grounded tire to move. I did it last weekend in this situation:
high centered on the crossmember and rear axle. Driver side rear tire was barely making contact, pass side was barried. Parking brake, throttle, boom out i came =)
I want a full Detroit now so I don't have to do this trick but I for one am totally pleased with the TrueTrac and for what it was designed for (front end use) it performs beyond my expectations.
high centered on the crossmember and rear axle. Driver side rear tire was barely making contact, pass side was barried. Parking brake, throttle, boom out i came =)
I want a full Detroit now so I don't have to do this trick but I for one am totally pleased with the TrueTrac and for what it was designed for (front end use) it performs beyond my expectations.
#16
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I have never read of anywhere that someone was so upset about their ARB that they even THOUGHT of getting rid of it. IMHO, all these doomsday tales of air leaks, etc are from people who don't own them. Even if it DOES fail, it fails safe (unlocked) so you can drive home and to work the next day.
Originally Posted by Nutter
There is absolutley no way I would ever own an ARB. I've seen way to many break - and I mean break, broken parts inside. They also have issues with failure to engage. If you ever read the ARB warranty you will see that it is full of weasle words. I have personally witnessed ARB deny the warranty on one of the Mn Trailriders becuase of tire size. This happened out at the EJS. Incidentally, that person went to a Lockright and went up 2" more and tire size on the same axle and wheeled it for over a year before he went to a bigger rear end and never broke it. What does that say about the strength of an ARB when a $250 lunchbox locker holds up better? ARB is a name associated with a lot of marketing, do you really want to pay for that marketing?
I've also seen the air lines leak, or get caught and torn.
You're right, I've almost never heard of a situation of someone getting rid of an ARB alone (except the story above). but I personally know about a half a dozen people who've had them in previous rigs, sold them, and vowed never to buy one again.
IMHO, an ARB is better matched to chrome wheels, than it is to real rock crawling. if offroad performance is what you really want, a lunchbox locker is all you need.
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If you really want offroad performance a lunchbox locker or detroit is the way to go.
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