Just trying to get a plan B going, man. I really hope it's the time switch but there is a chance that it isn't.

 

Alright so I finally got to swap out the time switch. I'm going to wait a couple of days before I come to any conclusions. I brought the old one inside so I could inspect it and I noticed there is a layer of blue-ish calcium build up on it. I don't know if calcium is the right word for it but it's very rough. The ECT sensor had the same stuff on it. Is that a sign that maybe I need to drain my coolant?

 

this is probaly your awnser... tadaaaaa....

 

Alright well I just got back from town and when I came out of the store, sure enough same ol' crank and low RPM sputter. I've checked everything that I could think of that would be causing this; coil, cap, CSI, ECT and now the time switch. Is it time for me to check the fuel pressure now?

 

Let me bump this for you so you don't have to get flamed....

Help a brutha out guys... Or he is gonna bump this all day tomorrow...

 

Haha thanks man

 

Any help I can get will be greatly appreciated

 

You're welcome.

Look-- another free bumpity bump... You're welcome

 

Bump.

Are you still getting the fuel smell? Did you ever check the EVAP TVV like Scope mentioned? I'd also check the intake air temp sensor in the VAFM (THA circuit).

Bump bump.

 

No i'll check those as soon as I can though. Do you think that the fuel smell and hard start are related? In the morning when its starts up right away I get the smell as well. I found this thread and I am going to use that to check those but the guy that posted it said it took him an extra 8-15 seconds to start so I sent him a message asking about it, hopefully he gets back to me.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...wledge-193022/

 

Alright so I have been driving it the past couple of days and I am pretty sure the problem got worse. The cranks are a lot longer now and there is a new starting sound. It's more of a grinding sound though. It's the sound where you have your truck on and you turn it over again, gives you goose bumps like fingernails on a chalk board. It's very tough for me to check anything out, i'm busy 7 days a week so I decided to just bring it to a mechanic and see what he could do. I would like to give him some ideas on things to check but all i've got is leaky injectors (if they are related). He said he'll check the spark and fuel again and make sure all the grounds are intact.

 

I have exactly the same problem as yours but I with a 22re, it starts right up in the morning but at the end of the day when it is hotter it won't start easily. What I have been doing is giving some gas at the same time I turn the key, it seems the only way to get it to start and then it idles at 200 rpm..

I didn't search for any solution but will follow the thread for sure

 

Maybe starter going bad and when it's warmer it won't fully engage the flywheel so it makes that grinding sound and the engine floods giving you the fuel smell? I had that happen in an FJ60 in the past. The starter was working just too weak to fully engage with the flywheel and I'd get that grinding sound. Try smacking it around with a hammer maybe lol. That'll give you something to do at least until your multimeter shows up

Just a guess. I am not a professional by any means but it might be worth looking into. I had a set of spark plug wires give me hell on my 3.0 until I replaced them. Maybe give those a check too. The problem I had would get worse as the plugs and the weather got warmer as well.

Other than that, I'm not much help

 

Alright so I found a thread where a guy was asking about his fuel pulsation damper possibly leaking. He said he was having starting issues as well but replaced the part and problem solved. i found some instructions on how to remove the plenum (the pulsation damper is underneath) and it looks like it's out my skill/knowledge level but I was looking around and I started removing some bolts and the bolts were looking kind of funny. The two bolts that are up front looked like they had corrosion or dried fuel on them? I am TERRIBLE at describing things. They are the first pic. There was also another nut right on the corner of the plenum, up front passenger, that was holding the, well I honestly have no idea what it's called but it had some wet fuel or oilish looking stuff on it. isn't that location where the fuel pulsation damper is? Could mine possibly be leaking? Here are the pics.

 

My meter actually did show up, I just haven't really found anything to test, let alone had the time.

Replaced those about a month ago.

Honestly I feel like I have done everything in my ability or skill level. It's going to a mechanic tomorrow so i'm just trying to give him some things to check. I'll tell him about the the pulsation damper, hopefully he'll give that a look see.

 

So my truck has been at the shop all week and I talked to my mechanic yesterday. He said he has had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up all week and even during and after the cranks, the pressure is up to par. He said that now leads to electrical. He is not one to throw parts at, i've known him for a long time, but he wants to replace the distributor for $150. I have been thinking about it and I want to know what you guys think about it. Think the distributor could be doing this? I read a thread where a guy replaced his and later found out it was the temp coolant sensor. This might be dumb question but is there a difference between the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor and the Temp coolant sensor? Same part? I know there is a something sender but I don't know much about that.

 

Did your mechanic actually test the distributor or is he just "throwing parts at it?". Give him the link to the FSM from my signature, and ask him to actually test it with a multimeter first.
Yes, there is a temperature sender and a temperature sensor, two different parts. One sends temperature to the ECM and the other sends temp to your dash gauge.

 

He is just throwing parts at it. I am starting to have second thoughts about him because I could tell him something I would like him to check and he wont and say it checks it out. He the most honest mechanic in my town and he's not really helping me. I have about just taking it to the dealer but that is money I don't have. Once again, if there are any independent toyota garages in the northern california/nevada area, please let me know!!

 

So I went and picked up my truck today and I talked to the mechanic. I asked to give me a reason of why he wants to replace the distributor and he said since it is not fuel, it's gotta be spark. He said it's possibly the dis. or the ignitor. He said if I were to replace the ignitor I should replace the coil as well. I don't really want to throw parts at it but i'm stumped. It also doesn't make sense with the "leaky injector". He said that the fuel pressure stayed good all the time but even when its a good start I still smell it? Maybe that is nothing to worry about.

So back to replacing my ECT. Replacing that (i think) actually made the cranks about twice as long. I'm going to pull it and see what it looks like tomorrow as well as flush the coolant. I still have not checked what Scope suggested. i'll do my best, there are some fancy words in his description. I think maybe I am just going to have change my attitude towards it and i'll completely forget about it =) But still, any suggestions?

 

Okay well I think it's safe to safe problem solved!! Don't wanna jinx my self though. . . I had replaced the two sensors and when i pulled the old ones I noticed they had a bunch of buildup on them. I was thinking maybe that means it needs a good flush. I aksed my good buddy name NorCal98 and he siad the same thing. That maybe the sensors are getting bad signals. Flushed the coolant and problem solved =) So far as of yesterday and today that is. . .

I bought this truck in September but only started driving it in December. The guy I bought it from said it had been sitting in his driveway for two years with minimal driving time. I guess that could lead to bad coolant.

So hopefully this thread and this comment will help someone in the future with the same problem.

My symptoms: Perfect first start, then would take about 30 sec to start at other times. At first I only thought it was because of the ambient temperature but then its started happening with a warm engine, cold engine, warm or even cold outside. Completely random!
What fixed it: I had replaced the start injector, time switch and ect. When I pulled the time switch and ect they has a bunch of crap on them. I put the two new ones in and the probelm actually got worse!! I flushed the coolant and it has been good so far! I checked my haynes and it even says in there to flush the coolant when changing these two sensors haha oops. So for that comment a couple of posts back with the 22re, pull the two sensors and see what they look like, maybe even do a solid flush while you are at it.