StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

So I have been having this problem ever since it got cold back it November/December. Well first off, it's a 91 3.0. So in the morning when it's below freezing, my truck would start right up, faster than any newer car i've been around. But then after sitting in the sun all day, like at work or school, it would just crank and crank. I'm assuming it's flooding because when it finally does start it sputters at about 200RPM and i get a strong smell of fuel. So I was thinking that my Cold Start Injector was sticking open causing it to flood. So I unplugged the connector to the Time Switch just for the heck of it and It started right up. The next morning, below freezing, it didn't start easily AT ALL. So I concluded that the CSI was closed, there for not getting any extra fuel to help start. I have been driving it like that sense but it still cranks when the engine is warm (sometimes, it is random) I also get the smell of fuel just while driving, when i've got the heat coming from the engine, I smell it.

I replaced the plugs, wires and the cap and rotor check out. I do not think it is the CSI or Time Switch so my next guess would be the ECT sensor? I definitely need some help here. I broke down and brought it to a mechanic and he said wow, that's weird, you're getting spark and fuel, check the CSI. That's all he told me so if I can't figure it out does anyone know of an independent Toyota garage in the northern California or Nevada area?

scope103

Based on your analysis, it sure sounds like the CSI is open when it is too warm for it to be open (so I'm sure you changed the plugs/wires for some other reason). Why do think it is not the CSI Time Switch? You unplugged it, the problem went away. (Or at least got better.) The CSI is now being driven the ECU, w/input from the ECT.

There is a diagnostic procedure for the Time Switch http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...yste/colds.pdf, and since you already have the plug off there is no reason to not do it. Then while you're at it, check the ECT too.

I assume you don't have a CEL, AND you've checked for stored codes. If you're actually running too rich you should get a code, because the O2 sensor is telling the ECU it can't keep up.

So where is the gas smell coming from? Check for leaks in the fuel pulsation damper (lots of folks report failures there), the fuel pressure regulator, then check the evaporative canister (if the canister isn't working right, possibly due to a bad TVV, it will fill with vapors that aren't getting emptied, and you can smell that on that side of the engine compartment).

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Well to be honest one day I had it plugged in and I was walking to my car from work and there was two guys getting ready to leave. I have been pretty embarrassed about this problem so I was killing time until they left so I just popped off the connector and they left so I turned it over and it started then died. Then started again and idled well. The rest of the day it started fine but then the next morning it wouldn't start so I then PLUGGED THE CONNECTOR in and she fired right up. So that told me that the injector was opening and closing fine so it then lead me to believe the time switch was telling it to open and close at off times. I unplugged it later that day and left it off. I went throughout the week and sometimes it would start right up when usually it would crank, like after class, and other times it would still crank. So after work today it started right up and then I drove to the store and came back out and it cranked. The engine was hot and did not need the CSI. it is unplugged right now as well so I figured that if the CSI is closed (I know because it had trouble starting this morning) and it cranks so it has nothing to do with the CSI and Time Switch. But that's my opinion and Scope you said that the CSi is now listening to the ECU which comes from the ECT? So could that mean my ECT is the problem?

TNRabbit

Leaking injectors could account for a flooded condition when warm...pretty rare, but a possibility. Have you checked fuel pressure?

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

No but my buddy suggested it. I get paid tomorrow so maybe i'll go rent one from Napa. So I would turn the key to "on" and check the pressure, see if it's up to par and then turn it off and see if the needle drops?

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

MB4runner

Isn't there a coolant temp sensor which tells the CSI when to fire, that's also potentially an issue. It might not be the injector sticking but rather the sensor needs to be replaced.

TNRabbit

You need to download the FSM. There are multiple links in my sig.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

MB4runner, the time switch and the coolant temp sensor are right next to each other but i'm pretty sure it is the time switch that tells the CSI when to fire however the ECT(engine coolant temp sensor) is my next guess on possibilities.

TNRabbit- I have downloaded that stuff in the past. I would like the check the ECT sensor but it is tough because I don't have a variety of tools. I'm sure I could pick up a multimeter from napa but i'm sure that it is probably pretty expensive. Do you have any parts in mind that I should check?

scope103

You don't need to download the entire manual; I provided a link to the Time Switch page in my post, and you can back up through that link to the whole manual. (That said, if you're willing to take the time, having the whole manual on your computer means it will never go away.)

Checking the fuel pressure is useful but non-trivial. Many cars have a "Schrader" valve (over-sized tire valve) on the fuel rail, so your rental fuel pressure gauge probably only connects to that. Toyotas don't have that connector. You need a (fairly simple) adapter to connect a gauge, but only the "higher-end" gauges have all the adapters.

You aren't going to get too far diagnosing any post-1970 auto without a multimeter. And there's no excuse for not having one. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html

CSI problems don't usually throw codes, but a "fuel smell" often does. So check for codes! This requires a very specialized, expensive tool: http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...aper-Clips-No/

Despite your efforts, I don't know enough yet about your rig to tell where the problem is. But start with the easy stuff (codes, diagnose the Time Switch and the ECT) before you get to harder stuff (fuel pressure).

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Hey scope I tried pulling codes a couple of weeks ago with the paper clip and I counted the engine flashes and I lost track upwards of 200. . . I have a pretty good eye for patterns and the flashes were all one pattern and the engine light is not on but does work. Thanks for the link of the multimeter. I read the types of readings it does and I didn't read "ohm" anywhere, is ohm a certain kind of reading and would I need a different meter just for that?

scope103

"Resistance" is measured in ohms. This meter will work fine.

At $4 each, you're not going to be using it at NASA anytime soon ....

You don't have codes; you'd notice a pattern long before you counted past 5.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Alright, ill order on of those and see what happens, thanks man!

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

SO this morning I decided to plug in the connector and sure enough, she fired right up. But then every other time I started it today it cranked. My buddy was wondering what the possibility of the CSI not closing ALL THE WAY is? Basically what if it is sticking open just enough to let fuel get in there. My local Pick N Pull just got a 91 4runner in (Hopefully a 3.0) Maybe i'll head down there and get the CSI, time switch and ECT and see what happens.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Okay here is a new update, I just put in a new/used CSI and ECT sensor and the problem persisted. I still have the time switch to put in but I didn't have a socket that would fit so hopefully tomorrow. The multimeter I purchased is still in the mail so what ever gets here first wins. I am hoping that the time switch is the problem but I would like to get some other parts on a list to check. Hoping i'll get the meter soon I can check out more stuff. What do you guys think I should check?

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

BMcEL

You're kidding, right? The first post in one of your three threads on this topic:

And in this thread alone:

And you still haven't tested the time switch?

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Okay well 2 posts up I said I had replaced the CSI, the ECT and i'm going to replace the Time Switch this afternoon. Just in case the Time Switch IS NOT the culprit, I would like to have an idea of other things to check. And in that same thread I stated that the multimeter I had purchased is still in the mail so before you start telling me to read your posts, how about you read mine =)

BMcEL

There is no reason to bump your own thread several times a day when you have not even tested the most mentioned and likely cause of your problem.

This is a very common problem...next time try searching a little instead of starting three different threads asking the exact same question.