rocklover

The drivers side timing chain guide is broken at the upper mounting bolt, though the entire guide is still there. So I have a couple quick questions.

1) I realize I have been lucky thus far but can I keep driving it for the next few weeks until I can figure out what I am going to do with it? What's the potential damage, if any?

The truck burns about a quart between oil changes, and has started to consume a little more, maybe 1.5 quarts/3k. It's got 316k, still has good power, was told top end rebuilt at 270k by previous owner but no paperwork, but was definitely freshened up at some point. After I adjusted the valves the tick/knock is still there, assuming the knock at the front of the motor is the timing cover, but the valve tick is also still there, at least that's what I think it is. I'm running 5w and am going to change it back to 10w and see if the tick dies down. So to the question.

2) Do I go in and just replace the timing chain, guides, pumps, etc., OR do a top end rebuild while I'm in there, OR do an entire rebuild top to bottom (this has it's own questions, rebuild, short block, long block,)

If I do a complete rebuild I'll have a shop do it, due to school and me not having a garage. And with me being in school I've gotta do this on a tight budget. Soooo, what do you guys think I should do?

BTW I'm taking an internship in Northern Maine this summer, I live in Colorado, so I need my truck ready to do 10k miles with 0 issues. I will literally be in the middle of nowhere.

Thanks in advance!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Depends on how much money you're willing to spend.

superex87

As long as the timing chain is not rubbing on the timing over you can keep driving it. Save up and replace the timing chain, use a kit it will have all the parts you need, might as well replace the water pump while you have it all apart.

2. I would recommend changing all the oil related gaskets then see where you stand on oil consumption. 1 quart between changes is not bad at all.

rocklover

I've got about $500 I could spend, anything over that I'm going to have to pay it off the credit card. :/

It's not rubbing the timing cover, the whole guide is still intact. I was looking at those kits from engnbuilder with the pumps.
What all oil related gaskets would I want to change? The engine doesn't leak externally.

Side note I did a compression test about a year ago and one cylinder was about 110psi, the others were 120-135psi.

mitutoyo

If you really love this truck and plan to keep it for a long time, i would use my credit card for the rebuilt long block. Time is money and reliability is priceless.

jahstrength

Since you need drain the oil and get the timing cover off, its only a little bit more work to drop the oil pan and check the bearings and crank. I just replaced my connecting rod bearings and put new rings on the pistons and it only cost me $70 and a days worth of work.

93 Toyota 4x4

you need to make sure of the wear in the cylinders if your just going to re-ring it. If out of spec then rings won't seal or may break....So just a re-ring may be pointless. You don't know till it's checked.

Oil consumption could be rings, valve guides or valve seals, or just leaks, or any combination of those.

straight 5wt oil...hum that's interesting...not my choice of oil weight!!!

jahstrength

Yes of course, if you are going to re-ring and put new conrod bearings you need to mic and check for warpages etc. The FSM has the specs you need.