2big4arunner

I hope thats not the case. The bearing caps are individually adjusted professionally to make the bearing clearances proper. If its the Cam making the noise your gonna have to pull the head out anyways to fix that. I always have it done by the machine shop to make sure its not gonna wreck a camshaft bearing.
IF this is the issue and its not something else, and you decided to drive it. The bearing probably will seize up and stop you dead in your tracks...... Btw.... Did you use any lube on assembly?

scott90

Yea the caps that the cam lobes ride on that just slide in,and no lube I poured oil over the cams before I put the valve covers on

scott90

so i pulled the whole air cleaner assembly off and found that there was about 1/4 of a gallon of fuel in the two little boxes off to the side of it that have a line running off both of them...so i followed the hard lines and found it runs to the passenger side. it then connects to a rubber hose that connects to a small little valve that has a bunch of vaccum lines running to it and has a little spring loaded adjuster on it not sure what causes all this...then i pulled my distributer bolt and twisted it back and forth and it is making a growling noise but then when i put my finger on the gear it and do it again its quiet as if the bearing inside the dizzy is shot? sorry if my explanations are bad i do this off my phone lol

scott90

Got her all together and timed,she's running better then ever with twice the power!

2big4arunner

awesome job bud. I don't know why but I didn't get notified about your last response. Did you fix the dizzy issue? Was it the dizzy making all the cam noise? I forgot to mention that you should double check the caps on the cams because they are numbered.

I do half and half with my phone and my laptop. Phone at work, laptop everywhere else. My phone had an app called slid-it that makes typing a little faster.

Did you do the crossover mod? I know the auto doesn't shift right if the distributor isn't working right. Good job on the motor either way bud. Hope I helped

Lycanistic

Looks like this is gonna be a super thread.

scott90

Yea the helped a lot and the main issue with the truck running down a cyl was the vacuum lines were all messed up,one thing I must say to anyone doing this is to make sure you seal up the the block with the coolant bypass hooked to it on the back of the intake and to make sure the hose is good and make sure all your injectors are plugged in before the put the plenum on lol if your like me it's easier to label what each set of bolts came out of so there's no confusion on assembly

2big4arunner

I should have posted my last 3vz rebuild, some of the nice pics are still on my phone LOL.

My next 3vz build will be a rwd 3vz-fe with custom headers, electric fan and high flow Ford explorer rad (which fits btw) gonna pull some numbers on a dyno then post the videos to make some locals shut up about their Chevy swaps. Under 1k is my goal.

Meanwhile helping others make it through a fun head gasket is a feel good experience.

Lycanistic

Awesome...will be watching for it.

scott90

Now having problems with timing:/

2big4arunner

What issues are you having? Did you make sure that you have no vacuum leaks? Jumper in the right terminals? Preset the idle properly?

scott90

Timing is good now but it idles really high with the idle turned down as far as it will go...I had to put that aside because I broke the passenger front brake line off at the caliper and it's a hard line and according to auto zone they don't care pre bent break lines so there she sits again lol

scott90

And I never pre set the idle before hand

2big4arunner

checking in on how you were doing with the final touches on the truck Scott. I haven't had much time myself to check back sooner.


Did you find the vacuum leak or wrong hose making your engine run fast?
Did you check how to set the idle? After doing a rad swap to the Ford rad on mine I had a buddy not do up the banjo bolts tight enough (he is gonna put in straight flex fuel lines when he puts on the supra injectors next month) and it caused erratic idle.
Mine was fast as well but since I didn't check for the vacuum leak ahead of time I wasn't sure thats what it was. More worried about making sure that my fuel leak was fixed.

After putting in all new vacuum lines and fuel lines and tightening the bolts it seemed to fix itself. Make sure if you haven't already to have all electronics off in the vehicle when setting base timing