Weber
#1
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Location: mississippi
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Weber
Looking for some advice before I order. I'm going to order a 32/36 and was wanting to know if if be better off ordering the package with the carb, adapter, and fuel reg. the adapter and reg worth it? Or should I order the carb and then buy a diff adapter and reg separate. Guess my question is are the adapter and fuel the package from lce good quality or junk? Thanks for any feed back from people with exp with these parts. I'm hoping to order it all today and get it in for this nice 3 day weekend coming up
#3
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If it was me I'd opt out of the adapter, regulator and gauge in the kit and purchase their one-piece spiral adapter for $79. You can purchase a better regulator and gauge elsewhere for less money. Just my opinion. I removed all my smog stuff etc. and blocked off the hole in the back of the head. You can buy the EGR block off plate from them or make your own (easy to do).
#4
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Another thought....I ran the 32/36 on my 22r for a year then swapped to the 38. Better throttle response with the 38 and I don't have to keep my foot it it as much as the 32/36. Mileage is as good or maybe better.
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I ordered the kit it has the spiral adapter. I think I'm going to leave the crossover on the back of the head alone. With everything else blocked off it shouldn't matter if it's there or not? Or am I confused on it?
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Also did you remove the plate from under the intake and the heater line from the center of the head and block it off? If so do I just plumb the heater line from the new plate under the intake back to the heat line using rubber hose?
#7
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I think the one in the kit is spiral but a two-piece. Maybe LCE's is better than Weber's but the Weber two-piece is junk. No, I did not block off the the water to the manifold. I removed the EGR from the rear of the head to get rid of the plumbing.
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#9
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Yes, the spiral adapter is 2 pieces, but it's machined billet aluminum. The other 2 piece adapter is cast, and that's what I blame for most of the poor sealing. As far as the 38, your better response and less throttle needed is because it's not a progressive, both barrels open at once. Also, the 32/36's don't come properly jetted for a 22r most of the time. I lived at 4,000'+ and still had to get richer jets to make the carb happy. The 32/36 can be modded to be synchronous, too, and I ran it with great results. I never ran the 38, but I think using the 32/36 may have kept intake velocity up some, which tends to help a little with low end torque.
As for the egr, I never removed the tube around the back of the head, and the only vacuum line I had from the carb was the pcv to filter housing. For the vacuum advance, mine really like full manifold vacuum rather than ported for some reason, so it was run elsewhere.
As for the egr, I never removed the tube around the back of the head, and the only vacuum line I had from the carb was the pcv to filter housing. For the vacuum advance, mine really like full manifold vacuum rather than ported for some reason, so it was run elsewhere.
#10
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Neither the 32/36 or the 38 came even close out of the box with the proper jetting for my application. I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with the jets etc. I agree with the progressive vs. syncro but for my truck the 38 was the way to go. I run the PCV and a line to the disty. Works great.
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