weak 87 yota
07-05-2008, 06:50 PM
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weak 87 yota
I put a 87-127-4 .445 lift comp.cam in my 87 4wd truck.The motor and head is fresh with good compression,a header ,and a carb from a 1979 318 chrysler v-8 adapted to the stock intake.I've set the timing from 0 to 12 degrees in 2 degree increments,and adjusted the carb.It idles perfect but pulls crappy.Both vacuum advances are o.k,the timimg chain is new and right but the performance is no better than the stock cam and carb. I tore it down because of timing chain tensioner failer and put it back with a rebuilt head,the 318 carb and the new cam,timing chain,oil pump and a header.The carb is not a progressive carb but is new,it idles perfect but the power is dissapointing.Does anyone have any tips?thanks
07-05-2008, 07:00 PM
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07-05-2008, 07:03 PM
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the stock carb has all the plugs and vacuum lines that will need something done with them,so I don't know what to do with it,lol........the 318 carb only has the vacuum advance port.
07-05-2008, 10:10 PM
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tape off the ports
buts a stock head and valve train can only take up to .435 of lift as thats the biggest on ei got because of that anything over that and you need new valves and dubble springs to keep them closed thats what engbldr told me anyways cause i was going to go with there biggest meanest cam but i didnt have the few bucks for everything else to get that cam to work
buts a stock head and valve train can only take up to .435 of lift as thats the biggest on ei got because of that anything over that and you need new valves and dubble springs to keep them closed thats what engbldr told me anyways cause i was going to go with there biggest meanest cam but i didnt have the few bucks for everything else to get that cam to work
07-06-2008, 10:28 AM
#7
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tape off the ports
buts a stock head and valve train can only take up to .435 of lift as thats the biggest on ei got because of that anything over that and you need new valves and dubble springs to keep them closed thats what engbldr told me anyways cause i was going to go with there biggest meanest cam but i didnt have the few bucks for everything else to get that cam to work
buts a stock head and valve train can only take up to .435 of lift as thats the biggest on ei got because of that anything over that and you need new valves and dubble springs to keep them closed thats what engbldr told me anyways cause i was going to go with there biggest meanest cam but i didnt have the few bucks for everything else to get that cam to work
it will still run fine, ive had a huge comp cam in one of my old 22r's. and the cam specs said hd valve springs required. but i just used the stock ones cause thats what i had, and it ran great twisted 7,000 rpm.
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07-06-2008, 12:19 PM
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the carb is likely too big and when combined with that cam you're losing considerable intake velocity... much necessary to fill the engine. if it were me, I'd probably be using a holley 5200 progressive two barrel (rated ~280 cfm) or the stock toy carb (rated ?).
As an exercise, attach a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and figure out just how much vacuum you're building. Then you can figure out if you're going to have to raise the idle higher and adjust the timing appropriately.
quick question- how much total advance is the distrubtor set up for? you may need to diddle with the total and centrifual advance rates to get you up to about 30-36 degrees total (depending on what the engine will take).
As an exercise, attach a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and figure out just how much vacuum you're building. Then you can figure out if you're going to have to raise the idle higher and adjust the timing appropriately.
quick question- how much total advance is the distrubtor set up for? you may need to diddle with the total and centrifual advance rates to get you up to about 30-36 degrees total (depending on what the engine will take).
Last edited by abecedarian; 07-06-2008 at 12:22 PM.
07-06-2008, 07:00 PM
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tape off the ports
buts a stock head and valve train can only take up to .435 of lift as thats the biggest on ei got because of that anything over that and you need new valves and dubble springs to keep them closed thats what engbldr told me anyways cause i was going to go with there biggest meanest cam but i didnt have the few bucks for everything else to get that cam to work
buts a stock head and valve train can only take up to .435 of lift as thats the biggest on ei got because of that anything over that and you need new valves and dubble springs to keep them closed thats what engbldr told me anyways cause i was going to go with there biggest meanest cam but i didnt have the few bucks for everything else to get that cam to work
07-06-2008, 07:07 PM
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the carb is likely too big and when combined with that cam you're losing considerable intake velocity... much necessary to fill the engine. if it were me, I'd probably be using a holley 5200 progressive two barrel (rated ~280 cfm) or the stock toy carb (rated ?).
As an exercise, attach a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and figure out just how much vacuum you're building. Then you can figure out if you're going to have to raise the idle higher and adjust the timing appropriately.
quick question- how much total advance is the distrubtor set up for? you may need to diddle with the total and centrifual advance rates to get you up to about 30-36 degrees total (depending on what the engine will take).
As an exercise, attach a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and figure out just how much vacuum you're building. Then you can figure out if you're going to have to raise the idle higher and adjust the timing appropriately.
quick question- how much total advance is the distrubtor set up for? you may need to diddle with the total and centrifual advance rates to get you up to about 30-36 degrees total (depending on what the engine will take).
07-07-2008, 08:52 AM
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the carb is likely too big and when combined with that cam you're losing considerable intake velocity... much necessary to fill the engine. if it were me, I'd probably be using a holley 5200 progressive two barrel (rated ~280 cfm) or the stock toy carb (rated ?).
As an exercise, attach a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and figure out just how much vacuum you're building. Then you can figure out if you're going to have to raise the idle higher and adjust the timing appropriately.
quick question- how much total advance is the distrubtor set up for? you may need to diddle with the total and centrifual advance rates to get you up to about 30-36 degrees total (depending on what the engine will take).
As an exercise, attach a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and figure out just how much vacuum you're building. Then you can figure out if you're going to have to raise the idle higher and adjust the timing appropriately.
quick question- how much total advance is the distrubtor set up for? you may need to diddle with the total and centrifual advance rates to get you up to about 30-36 degrees total (depending on what the engine will take).
07-07-2008, 01:26 PM
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Stock carb is 325ish CFM, its the best damn carburator for these trucks PERIOD, don't bother with a weber, or anything else, unless you get a holley 350, you have too much carburation.. Adjust your timing, do a tuneup, put the stock carb back on, with all the vaccum lines, I beleive you only need the dist. advance and one other line (I forgot which one), Go to Napa, get a 40$ carb rebuild kit, rebuild it and get some vaccum plugs to plug the vaccum lines.. http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/ that website has all the info you will ever need. Now get to work!
07-07-2008, 05:42 PM
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well......I put the factory carb back on,set the timing at 12 degrees with the dist.vacuum lines on,adjusted the carb a little,and it runs fine,it has the same power as it had with the stock cam and exhaust,lol.......I guess 22r's just don't respond to tinkering like some other motors do.I will fiddle with the timing some to advance it as much as I can with pinging and just enjoy the old rust bucket,its been tough the last 10 years.Now its time for a flat bed,I'm tired of losing stuff through the holes in the bed,lol......ya'll have a good one
07-07-2008, 05:58 PM
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from toysport http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20...ech_notes.htm:
Be careful of camshaft choice, just remember that all slow modified 20 / 22R / 22RE engines have been over-cammed. Do not try to install cams with duration over 280 on single carb or fuel injection models.
07-07-2008, 07:36 PM
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With proper tuning, it should be possible to get close to 140HP from a 22RE without using a turbo. I just wish I had the money and the dyno to figure out how. I think a more modern EFI system would do the trick. The stock EFI from the 1st gens anyway isn't producing the power these engines should be capable of.
07-08-2008, 02:39 AM
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With proper tuning, it should be possible to get close to 140HP from a 22RE without using a turbo. I just wish I had the money and the dyno to figure out how. I think a more modern EFI system would do the trick. The stock EFI from the 1st gens anyway isn't producing the power these engines should be capable of.
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