Ovrrdrive gave you the info on the BJ spacer...

you really DO NOT want to add a rancho AAL to your 20 year old worn leaf pack. They are universal, meaning VERY stiff... your springs will take on a W shape from this... A custom long AAL, or a custom long AAL w/ rearch, or new springs are the 3 options I would look at... if you add a rancho AAL you will end up with new springs soon anyway thou...

 

So which AAL is a custom leaf? I have called around in the past and there is no where around here to get them re-arched. It is drooping about 2 inches lower than the front. Are new packs expensive?

 

A custom AAL can be made by alcan.com or a local custom shop, thou it sounds like you dont have one. Plan on spending 300-500 on leaves depending on what type you.

 

Stay the hell away from Bjoint spacers...their nothing but trouble!

 

Anything to back that up? You seem to be the only one with that opinion.

 

i just run the rear stock with 33x10.50's

 

So how is it? Coming from 235s I am a little nervous. I drive this on a daily basis, I am thinking I may need to go to 32s, but the 33s look so good.

 

Close. Actually, you have the same amount of flex, but just at different areas. The arms will still cycle through both bumpstops, but by cranking the bars, you have less perceived down travel, because ride height is closer to the upper bumpstop, and more perceived uptravel, becasue the arms are farther from the lower bump.

Ride is affected. You will experience a harsher feeling ride. Most people can live with it, and it isn't bad, but you will experience a small degredation in ride quality by cranking the bars.

You hit it, Narrower tires rub less.

As do cranked bars. Any lift will give steeper CV angles. 33x10.50's can be run with zero lift.

Both TC and I are running 33's with no lift. I experience zero rubbing.

He does has some truth in this statement, though perhaps being a bit melodramatic. If the spacers are used for lift, they WILL kill steering components, especially idler arms, faster than with no lift when wheeled in the rocks. However, these model trucks have some of the worst steering there is, and unless you really abuse your junk, you should be fine.

 

it works great, i run OME torsions, BJ spacers Lo pro bumps, Dual shock set with stock gears (still pulls strong) here is a pic stuffing 33x10.50 on a stock rear set up, i dont like the 32x11.50's the 33x10.50's really work great- chris

 

where do people get this info i wheel my truck hard almost everyweekend and i have 0 problems so far-

 

you should go with yukons gears or you'll be sad later. I just recently geared the goat down to 4.88's from Yukon. I had them cryoed by bobby long which is also a worthy investment. For street and offroad, my power gain was tremendous with 33's. I couldn't believe it. I also put in a detroit true-trac so I would have locker style off-road capabilities but still be able to cruise around town and on the highway. Randys Ring and Pinion will treat you right.

 

search button

 

Gosh adam, you keep forgetting that Newbs don't like the search button, it's like rat poision! Silly you.

 

Mine's an 87' 4Runner, 4 cyl, 5 spd, 22re with 33x12.50 tires and it does fine. I have to downshift into 4th going up hills but I had to do that with my 31" tires, too. (I hear a lot of people talking about re-gearing and I've never felt the need to). The 12.50's rub just a tiny bit if I crank it too hard to the left so I'm looking at getting some 33x10.50's here in the next month or so. I'm wondering if a 3" body lift would look silly with only 33" tires, still deciding. It's all in what you're used to. I've had this truck 13 yrs and its what it is, you get used to whatever you're driving.

 

heres my 90 pickup with 33x12.50x15. i have a body lift and suspension is all stock.they don't rub a bit.

 

I think the 2 inch looks fine, with plenty of clearance still. With minor suspension updates I will run 33x10.5's and might do a 1 inch BL just for added insurance, plus it should make under truck work easier.

 

A buddy of mine in hs ran a 3" and 31's on his reg cab, and it wasnt too horrible looking. But you would probably get away with a 1" or 2", I wouldnt go any higher than needed... A 1" BL provides room for 2" taller but same width tires. So if you go wider the amount you can go up decreases. A 33x10.50 would probably have room for chains with a 1"BL.

 

That is exactly what I am going for, just a little in case room.

 

http://brian894x4.com/33INCHTIRES.html
its good!
also balljoint spacers and shackles are a cheap and decent way of doing things!

 

Intersting writeup, but FYI cranking the tbars doesn't do a thing for tire clearance.. its all in the intense physical persuasion of the pinch weld. Not sure if thats your or not, but there is some info thats not 100% accurate in there, mostly the wording.