RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

While I have my transmission out to change out my rear main and clutch, I thought I might take a crack at fixing its leaking gaskets. The trans is two aluminum housings with a steel or cast iron plate bolted between them. The paper gaskets on either side of this steel plate are leaking. My idea is to remove the 6 or 8 14mm bolts, slide the two housings away from the plate an inch or so, scrape out the old paper gasket, and seal it back up with RTV. Here is a diagram:



(Thanks to MarlinCrawler.com, from whom I have borrowed this image)

I'd like opinions on this process. I am worried that separating the housings might disturb the internals. Any ideas? Will I need to remove the front bearing/seal retainer or should I leave in in place?

yayfortrees

It's real easy to just go ahead and separate the transmission all the way. You would have to do the same steps to be able to separate it an inch, as you would to take it all the way apart.

If you don't replace the paper gaskets, you'll want a little more room to work to apply the RTV, making sure you get the thinnest application possible. Also, make it as even as possible, don't have any thick spots.

There are two other steps. The first will be to remove your bearing cover on the front side of the case. (The bell housing can stay on, but the bearing cover is on that same side.) There is a circlip on each of the bearing races under that bearing cover. Those will have to be removed.

Remove the shifter plate, (probably already done) and unbolt the shift seat.

When you separate the transmission, all of the gears and shafts should stay in place on that center plate, with the two halves coming off. The shift seat will slide off it's shaft, so make sure it's back on before you bolt everything back together. Leave all the bearings and gears on the shafts. No need to disassemble them, provided nothing is broken.

When reassembling, make sure the shift seat is back in place, and that the arm is also in it's place. Make sure everything is seated squarely before tightening down the bolts. Replace all the parts, and reinstall the shifter so that you can test shift it through all the gears. You will probably have to keep the input shaft spinning by hand to shift into all the gears.

If you run into any questions, just ask!

peapicker

There are good write ups with pics in here somewhere, just have to search for em.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the fast responses! Looks like what yayfortrees is saying lines up with the FSM pretty well. Front bearing retainer and two big snap rings to remove the front housing, shift lever seat to remove the rear housing. Peapicker, do the detent springs have to be messed with in order to disengage the tail housing from the shift linkage?

yayfortrees

I don't think they do. If you have a hard time getting the linkage back in, they will unscrew without any problems. After the linkage is back in place, just tighten them back up.

peapicker

Yep, what he said! Just be carfule taking them out. Sometimes the springs are realy tight, Ive lost the caps before! Get shot across the garage. It makes it easier to get the linkage in and out, no binding on the ball.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Ah, now I understand. Thanks for the input guys!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I've been looking for this for months.... just swapped in a used w56 and it runs ok but leaks terribly f room this area. I should have done this befre installing..gah!

I've run about a thousand miles now and plan to drain and put in new oil soon.

I DO NOT want to pull this tranny again......is this repair possible with the tranny in the truck? Can i support the tranny with a jack and unbolt and remove the t case, then the two halves of the tranny and reseal?

Is this a crazy idea?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I know this is an old thread, but I ended up pulling mine (again) to take it apart and seal up with RTV RED (don't use black) - here are some photos and notes:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ission-251407/