90inworks

so iv heard about cranking up torsionbars? its all confusing to me but can u do it to the rear ? and how my truck squats

FredTJ

No, you don't have any torsion bars in the rear.
You need to replace the springs or get a "add a leaf"





Fred

weakyota91

U have already said its a dumb question wich leads me to believe u have some idea what your are talking about. U have a straight axle in the back like every other toyota 4x4 made right. well then no. U have leaf springs in the back. torsion bars are for Independent Front end. cranking up torsion bars only lifts the front end and does nothing to rear of truck/4runner. The only way to lift rear of truck would be lift blocks or different springs.

P.S ask around, lifting with torsion bars is the cheap way and more exspensive in the long run. it puts cvs at wrong angle, gives a crappy ride and wears or the torsion bars alot quicker. WOULDNT RECOMMEND IT.

thook

Cranking the torsion bars modestly won't hurt, though it does stiffen the ride a bit. If not in 4wd a lot, then it has little to no effect on the CV's. Ball joint spacers would be better for IFS. This is according to everything I'm reading on this wonderful site.

But, the thing to do for the rear would be this:
http://gearinstalls.com/scottcoil.htm

Go read this link for full details:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...1&fpart=1&vc=1

Ask on, oh courageous asker of dumb questions...lol.

MAIDEN

I have heard the exact opposite of that. I heard its a common misconception that it ruins your cv's............ but hey what do I know; I'am new to trucks(i was responding to WEAKYOTA)

thook

New or not, I'd like to know where you heard that because I certainly haven't until now. If that's true, I wouldn't be opposed to knowing. Thanks for mentioning it.

ovrrdrive

I cranked about an inch into my tbars about 11-12 years ago and just now at 208k I changed out my CV's because one had a hole in a boot and I was doing a lift anyway so I changed both of them out.

My tbars are fine.

Looks like there's some misconceptions out there on this. As usual.

thook

Yes, that would be par for the course. These misconceptions take on a life of their own. It made sense to me the way it was explained on the angle that the CV's ride...putting extra stress on the bearings. But, then, they are made to flex, aren't they? That is a modest crank, as well.

How's the ride with them cranked?

MMA_Alex

ive got mine cranked 1.5" or so and the ride difference is negligible. Yes it will wear your cv's faster. Any time they go anywhere other than straight they wear a little faster, however with manual hubs they should still last the life of the truck as long as i keep em greased and dont do anything too crazy offroad.

There are positives, and negatives to any type of lift you do. Cranking the t-bars is a great way to get an inch or two to stop bigger tires from rubbing during turns.

ovrrdrive

Firmer but tolerable...

I had a 94 standard cab truck that I bought new and I always felt the '95 xcab rode mushy compared to it. After a mild tbar crank the '95 rode just a little firmer than the '94 did. On the street you only notice it on speedbumps and sharp curbs. Offroad it made the ride kind of painful, but as I said its tolerable if you don't want to drop the change to do a proper lift.

mt_goat

T-bars are adjustable for a reason and sometimes they need adjusting up just to get back to the stock height. The problem comes when people adjust them up to the max as a substitute for a lift kit to fit big tires. Go too high and your CV angle gets extreme and puts more stess on the CV joints and boots and makes the ride harsher. Adjust in moderation and you'll be fine. Manual locking hubs also help by allowing the CVs to stop turning while on the highway.

thook

That was certainly my understanding of it. Thanks.

dijlop

the only dumb question is the question not asked. anyways, saw some stuff i want to set straight right now. the first couple of posts said that u can only lift the rear with blocks or add-a-leafs. but there are quite a few other ways. to name one, shackles. never say never.

thook

Sadly, none of those, except the AAL's, do anything for the suspension. It's still a brick hard ride.

MMA_Alex

for a leaf spring suspension yes, or longer springs, etc. then theres all the 4 runners with coil suspensions...

thook

What? You can't put shackles on coil suspension?

FredTJ

Might not be a lot stiffer, however you certainly loose downward droop if cranged too much.

MMA_Alex

lol i sincerely hope you're kidding.

90inworks

Well my truck sits fine in the front but sags in the rear? im just trying to get some stuff straight.... what are the average prices on A.A.L.? blocks? and shackles?

MMA_Alex

Do a search theres a ton of info already out there.

blocks would be the worst, but cheapest. doing it yourself it would be under $50
shackles are a better option. by yourself you're talking $50-80 probably.
add a leaf isnt really an option by itself imo because youll have a hard time getting much lift from them, but again if you're willing to do the work it would be under $200.

Your best option would be new springs. Do a search on spring swap. There are a number of companies that sell lift springs including Marlin, and OME.

Your best bet is to search for some of this stuff and do a lot of reading, and you should be able to figure out what the best option for your situation is. Also its probably worth figuring out how much rear lift you need, and considering that in your decision.

edit: please note all the rear lift info above is in regards to the leaf spring setup on the p/u's, and not the coil spring setup associated with 4runners