ok, so i did the infamous valve adjustment after a head swap on the 3.slow ... here are the specs.....

Drivers side-

#2 cylinder
exhaust = .020 size 11 shim to size 21
intake = .011 size 15 shim to size 21

#4 cylinder
exhaust = .017 size 15 shim to size 21
intake = .014 size 11 shim to size 17
#6 cylinder
exhaust = .022 size 15 shim to size 25
intake =.018 size 15 shim to size 27


Passenger side-

#1 cylinder
exhaust = .010 size 23 shim to same
intake = .012 size 31 shim to size 33

#3 cylinder
exhaust = .015 size 27 shim to size 33
intake = .010 size 31 shim to same

#5 cylinder
exhaust = .014 size 23 shim to size 27
intake = .014 size 35 shim to size 35


so with those results, i took it for a trip for gas, and i noticed i had an exhaust leak near the collectors, so i tightened them all up, and it sounds GREEEEAT!! i was actually kinda confused, cus i couldnt hear any engine noise, so i had to stick my head out the window and listen to the exhaust....

what a difference a valve adjustment makes not only to the noise problem, but the response difference was incredible, very crisp and smooth. i think next time i head up the mountain i wont be scared that its gonna not make it! Heck, i might even pass someone......nahhh what am i thinking! not to mention the gas mileage has to be better!!!

* While i was putting the truck back together, Fedex came with my new Eibach springs .... still waiting on the pro comp es9000's to come in... CANT WAIT TO PUT THEM ON... im tired of my saggy rear!

 

How difficult was it to adjust the valves, it sounds like mine tick a bit. I was told before that you need a special tool that only Toyota stealerships have. Thanks for any advice

 

This is the tool you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...QQcmdZViewItem

 

I used a set of VW shim pullers, which I think worked much better than those would. The VW shim pullers have 2 small teeth that actually GRIP the shim from either side's notch, and does so really well.

Now that little wrench with the two blocks on the end would have been a GOD SEND!! I had to use a nut on a fishing line.....GRRR lol

 

Thomas, can you please give a little insight as to the steps/difficulty in adjusting the valves? Thanks,Brian

 

take the valve covers off.

run the feeler gauges.... if its to loose, you subtract the amount it should be from what you have... (diff is say .005) then pull the shim, mike it, add the amount you need, refer to the shim table in the service manual, go to dealer and get the shim. (or order a set, but goodluck with that)

its not THAT hard, just time consumeing as hell... not to mention you have to take off the whole upper intake to get to the pass side valve cover...

 

And all of this should be done while the engine is warm correct? Once I have the plenum and valve covers off, are we talking a full day's work? Are the shims expensive, and are they only available at the dealership? Thanks!

 

hard to say... you could run them and virtually none of them need to be changed (time involved bout 10 min)... or all of them could (time involved about 4 hrs if you have the right shims instock).

shims are teribly expensive, and you can get them from online places but local parts houses are unlikely (napa, advance etc) to carry them.

 

aren't terribly expensive*

iirc I was paying 5 or 7 bux a shim when I did mine. I also did my shim job when the truck was cold.

 

If I were to try and 'stock' a few shims for the job, are there any particular sizes that would be good to have lying around, or not? I mean, how many different sizes of shims are there, and can they be stacked on one another to get the correct size? I see many different part numbers on Ebay, but where can I find the shim part numbers for my 95Runner?

 

You cant stock shims, Well you could but it might run you into the $1k and how ofter do mike your valves.
Just messure and get what you need.
You can also use the older ones in other places if the size is what you need, It reduces the amount of them you need.

 

I talked to the local toyota shop here and they let me use the box of shims they have. The parts guy made me show some ID and put a small deposit down. I just took out the shims I needed and put my old ones back in. This is the same thing they do in the shop. It didnt really take that long cause I had all the shims setting right there.

As far as stacking shims. That is NOT somthing you would want to do. The shims set down in a cup and you would take a chance on the top shim coming out. And that could cause major damage.

 

online service manual... tuneup section
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf
how many are there.... oh just a few...

 

One question, when should this be done and are there any symptoms as to when it might need to be done? Thanks.

 

Do any chain stores (Sears, Napa, AutoZone, Checker/Kragen/Schucks) sell the tool? I'd order it online but I need it ASAP.

 

The master tech who works on my truck says Valve adjustments are a waste of time on this engine and that it technically doesn't require it. He said it's a shim and bucket design which doesn't technically need it, only if something breaks (i.e. if it ain't broke don't fix it).

But then the technical maintenance jargon says to adjust the valves something like every 96 monthes or something like that and the guys who have adjusted the valves on this site point out good results as far as how quiet the engine runs (but did you notice it idle better or restore minor lost power or anything like that?).