Valve Adjustment Confusion
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Valve Adjustment Confusion
My truck has a LOUD tick and im wondering if it is a valve, and how difficult it is to adjust them. I called around and Im not happy with what people are saying about valve adjustment. Called 5 mechanics, 2 said they wouldnt do it, 1 told me they cant be adjusted, 1 said drive it til it blows, the other said around $2500.. Unbelievable. Its getting louder and louder. What a real bummer. I read some previous posts on here but am a little confused on the difficulty of this??? I do have a Chiltons, and after reading it doesnt sound THAT bad..Anyone know any good Toy mechanics around Akron/Cleveland Ohio area? I think I may need a miracle.. I would kill me to sell my truck. Hail Mary. ANY Help is greatly appreciated..
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Yes it is a 3.0 , and it runs great. No missing, No Smoking, really runs fine. I bought it about 4 months ago, has 146K miles and is in really great shape (very little rust if you can believe it). So I gave it a tune up, brakes, etc.. then one day it started ticking a little (not that loud) but louder than the normal injector tick, but would not tick all the time..then it got louder and more often. Now it ticks all the time, except first thing at start up..which I assume is because the oil is thicker then..
#5
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Adjusting the valves involves removing the cams, which means it's not cheap or terribly easy. The valves are shimmed, so you've got to know which shims you're going to need via measurement first, then pulling them to to determine their existing size.
If that truck hasn't ever had a timing belt, it'd be cost effective to do them both at once. I'm thinking in the neighborhood of $700 or so... but I haven't owned a 3.0 for a while.
If that truck hasn't ever had a timing belt, it'd be cost effective to do them both at once. I'm thinking in the neighborhood of $700 or so... but I haven't owned a 3.0 for a while.
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tools needhttp://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as...CTMP=1&LowCt=0and shims part #
Valve shims - 13753-65600
Valve Shims - 13753-65780
Valve shims - 13753-65760
and i do believe you don't have to remove the cams
Valve shims - 13753-65600
Valve Shims - 13753-65780
Valve shims - 13753-65760
and i do believe you don't have to remove the cams
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Thanks guys.. From what I can tell you dont have to remove the cams. Also, do valves that need adjustment get this loud? It is very loud but definately not a knock..just TAP TAP TAP with the revs. Im so paranoid at this point. I have heard everything from it is a wrist pin to bad injector to I need a new motor (I ruled the injector out) I do alot of my own work and would consider myself intermediate in my mech skills, and I do have a 60 gallon compressor and many tools. IS this something I can tackle? By the way I didnt call the dealer yet.. Should I? (do I want that answer?)
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I'd check closely for an exhaust leak at the manifolds, it can really sound like valve noise. The shim style of valve adjustment rarely increase in lash, they almost always tighten up. Short of breaking a valve spring or a totally worn cam, but you'd have a misfire problem if either of these happened.
#12
Lucas Oil Treatment
Seafoam is a religion on here. But, I was going to suggest emptying a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabalizer in it. The Lucas is thick as heck and will stay where it's needed. If it takes draining a quart or doing a change a few hundred miles early, it should be worth it. There are also a ton of write-ups and threads on here about the best ways to adjust valves. The Chilton's is the authority, just label the vacuum hoses, and use golf tees to plug them while you work. Congrats on the new truck, enjoy it. It's a Toyota, you're problem can't be $2500 serious. Good Luck, and don't forget to take your time--
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Seafoam? what is that and what does it do? I have thought about the sticking valve issue. I ran sum motor flush through it and changed the oil, then changed it again for the heck of it and still no change. Lucas, is that like STP oil treatment? And by the way Thanks Guys - Sure nice to hear from other Toyota lovers like me. I just wanna get this truck fixed and enjoy it. Besides I just got it and so far here is what I did: New calipers, front lines, rotors, pads, new rear bumper, New Firestone Destination AT's (31/10.50/15), MSD wires, bosch platinum plugs, cap & rotor. .... Figures
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Ouch--Bosch plugs. NGK all the way. Off topic: I've heard not to use platinum plugs (even NGKs) in yotas. Something about the electrode being smaller and getting gummed up easier. Don't know if it's true.
#15
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seafoam is a motor cleaner thats sucked in through a vacuum hose. do a search as there are a number of good threads on seafoam.
Lucas oil stabilizer is thick pure petroleum oil. basically it will stick to the upper engine parts in a thin layer instead of draining back into the pan. I personally wouldn't recomend it, but plenty of people on here do.
even if the valves need to be reshimmed it shouldnt cost $2500. for $2500 you could probably have a new motor put in.
Lucas oil stabilizer is thick pure petroleum oil. basically it will stick to the upper engine parts in a thin layer instead of draining back into the pan. I personally wouldn't recomend it, but plenty of people on here do.
even if the valves need to be reshimmed it shouldnt cost $2500. for $2500 you could probably have a new motor put in.
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Thanks, yeah $2500 does sound crazy... I just cant figure out why it is so hard to find a good mechanic that knows about this thing. There are a million of these on the road. I guess I need to keep calling around but dam, How many people do I need to Call! as far as the seafoam, how exactly do I use it? Is there info on the bottle/can?
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OK is it possible that I have a valve sticking? I dont know if this means anything but when it is running and I remove the oil filler cap, it seems to be sucking air into the engine and the RPMs lower. If it is a valve sticking, how do I fix that? Do I need to? Like I said the truck runs flawless, no misses or anything. Any Ideas???
#18
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OK is it possible that I have a valve sticking? I dont know if this means anything but when it is running and I remove the oil filler cap, it seems to be sucking air into the engine and the RPMs lower. If it is a valve sticking, how do I fix that? Do I need to? Like I said the truck runs flawless, no misses or anything. Any Ideas???
as I said above do a search on "seafoam" and you'll find a number of good threads with instructions, results, etc.
#19
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Before doing all this stuff and going crazy, I would try the cheepest way out 1st. Go to the store, and buy yourself a bottle of Lucas oil treatment. If this fails, then go on to the next step. I have used Lucas, and it works very well.
Also be sure it is a valve tapping and not a fuel injector. They can sound just like a valve tapping, as I went through this.
But like I said, spend $10.00 and try the Lucas. I'm sure this will help if it is a valve.
Also be sure it is a valve tapping and not a fuel injector. They can sound just like a valve tapping, as I went through this.
But like I said, spend $10.00 and try the Lucas. I'm sure this will help if it is a valve.
#20
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Thanks for the Info, Im gonna go pick up some Seafoam and Lucas oil treatment.. Hope this does the trick. Ill let you know. Thanks again guys. I am assuming some of you had a valve stick in the past or ? and some of this stuff actually works. Ill keep ya posted